Hydra-Pure Oil-Free Moisture is said to be a best-seller for the brand, but it also makes the claim that it removes unwanted heavy metals left on skin from tap water. How it goes about doing that isn’t explained, other than that it works via the company’s Chelating Complex. Chelating agents prevent metals from binding to other substances, but the amount of metals in tap water (and their potential subsequent effect on skin) isn’t cause for concern. In the end, this is a very good yet pricey moisturizer for normal to slightly dry skin. The fragrance-free formula contains a nice array of antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and repairing ingredients. The amount of clay (bentonite) this contains keeps it from feeling too slick or greasy, a fact those with oily skin will appreciate.
A lightweight moisturizer that never leaves skin feeling oily and absorbs quickly. It protects, repairs, and reverses the signs of aging with powerful antioxidants, peptides, and Dr. Gross' proprietary Chelating Complex, a blend of detoxifying compounds that protect skin from harmful elements. This anti-aging and ultra-light hydration also defends against breakouts.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Purified Water (Aqua Purificata), Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Squalane, Bentonite, Butylene Glycol, Soy Isoflavones, Tetrapeptide-21, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone, Phospholipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, Acrylates/Carbamate Copolymer, Lecithin, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide 2, Dimethicone, Cyclodextrin, Disodium EDTA, Pentasodium Pentetate, Phytic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Potassium Gluconate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylene Brassylate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid
As you may have gleaned from the name, dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross created this skin-care line. Based in New York City, he claims that all of his products provide "maximum results without side effects," a statement any doctor should know better than to make. For instance, a consumer would logically assume, especially coming from a doctor, that "maximum results" means the products in question really will firm, lift, tighten, plump, or peel the skin. But Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare products don't provide maximum results, not in the least, and definitely not in any of the ways suggested by the marketing copy. In fact, although Gross includes some very impressive ingredients in his products, they cannot make good on the most enticing claims he makes for them.
As for the promise of "no side effects," that is easily refuted with a simple overview of his underachieving products. A quick summary: lavender oil can cause skin-cell death, sulfur is extremely irritating and drying to skin, ascorbic acid can be sensitizing, as can retinol, and the synthetic active sunscreen agents he uses can also present their share of problems. That's not to say that all of these ingredients are bad for skin (only the sulfur and lavender oil qualify for that description), but it's foolish to make a blanket statement that your cosmeceutical-type products are free of side effects. How could he possibly know what a person may react to?
Gross also asserts that he uses cutting-edge technology in his products, a point which I concede given the number of superior moisturizers and serums he offers, all of which compete nicely with other well-formulated products. His products are expensive, but if you're going to spend a lot of money on skin-care products, you should be purchasing state-of-the-art formulas, and these do rate. Of course, this technology (read: efficacious ingredients) doesn't extend to every Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare product, but overall this is one line whose formulas have improved considerably since the previous edition of this book, and that is excellent news!
Several of the products in this line contain emu oil. While there is research indicating that emu oil is a good emollient that can help heal skin, it is not that different from other oils that offer the same benefit, such as grape or olive or even mineral oil for that matter (Source: Australasian Journal of Dermatology, August 1996, pages 159–161).
Last, please ignore the tired claim that these products are your alternative to surgical procedures and that they use medical-grade ingredients. Concerning the latter, there is no such thing; Gross uses the same cosmetic and over-the-counter active ingredients found throughout the cosmetics industry. And although his line offers some remarkable products, none of them can provide results equivalent to Botox, dermal fillers, chemical peels, or laser treatments (and definitely not a face-lift).
Note: Unless mentioned otherwise, all MD Skincare products are fragrance-free.
For more information about Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, call (888) 830-7546 or visit the Web site at www.dgskincare.com.
NOTE: In Spring 2010, MD Skincare became Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare.