Time To Hydrate Essential Reviving Serum

by Ahava  Time to Hydrate
Price:
$58 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:
2/19/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

The claim that this serum refines skin's texture is likely a connection to the sugar and citrus extracts it contains. Although some cosmetics companies try to convince consumers these ingredients are a natural alternative to alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliants, they're not. Sugar maple and orange extract don't exfoliate skin, they have no action that is similar to how lactic or glycolic acids work on skin, and there's no research proving otherwise.

Considering the high price, this serum is a poor performer. It feels sticky going on and has a tacky finish courtesy of hairspray-like film-forming agents. None of this is appealing, and the formula is far from what all skin types need to look healthier and act younger.

Another problem is that this serum contains the sensitizing preservative methylisothiazolinone. Coupled with several fragrance ingredients and an almost complete lack of beneficial ingredients, this serum adds up to an expensive mistake for all skin types.

Pros:
  • None.
Cons:
  • Expensive for what amounts to an unimpressive formula.
  • Cannot exfoliate ("refine") skin as claimed.
  • Unpleasant sticky texture and tacky finish.
  • Contains a sensitizing preservative and several fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation (though the fragrance ingredients are not present in high amounts).

More Info:

The Dead Sea water in this product offers no special benefit for skin. If anything, because water from the Dead Sea is so salty and because it also contains sulfur along with other irritating minerals, it ends up being drying and irritating for all skin types. Soaking in Dead Sea water can have benefit for those with certain types of skin rashes, but there is no research showing it has benefit as a skin-care ingredient.

When my complexion is in need of a more intensive treatment to refine its texture and achieve a more even tone, I apply this light and oil free reviving serum. It acts quickly to promote skin repair and restore its natural moisture level. I feel my skin transformed with softness.

Water, Acer Saccharinum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Leaf Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob Bean) Gum, Maris (Dead Sea Water), Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Propylene Glycol, PVM/MA Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PEG-40 Castor Oil, Glycoproteins, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, PEG-5 Cocoate, PEG-8 Dicocoate, PEG-9, Methylisothiazolinone, Fragrance, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Ahava is the Hebrew word for love, and this group has adopted it for these skin-care products imported from Israel. Other than the endearing title, the point of difference for Ahava is that their products contain salts and minerals from the Dead Sea in Israel. So, you ask, is your skin going to love these products because they contain Dead Sea water? Supposedly, Cleopatra did, and, of course, she must have had skin to die for, or else Mark Antony wouldn't have risked everything for her. Is that a good enough reason to consider these products for your own skin-care routine? We hope not. Aside from the folklore, there is little truth behind the hype—why would anyone believe that Cleopatra knew any more about skin care than she did about computers or cell phones—and skin care in this millennium is indeed akin to rocket science.

Keep in mind the Dead Sea in Israel is called "dead" because nothing can live in it (technically, there are some bacteria and fungi that can). There are many environmental factors that contribute to making the Dead Sea one of the saltiest lakes in the world, but we won't get into that discussion. A comparison should give you an idea of just how salty it is. The seawater in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans has a salt content of 3–4%, while the Dead Sea has a salt content of 32%, as well as a large concentration of minerals such as sulfur, magnesium, calcium, bromide, and potassium. If you haven't been to the Dead Sea, we can tell you the aroma of the sulfur in the water is overwhelming. It is hard to imagine that anything so noxious would be considered a desirable beauty treatment.

Despite the smell and the high mineral content, there are no clinical studies or research showing that Dead Sea minerals have any effect on wrinkles, discolorations, sagging skin, or acne. There are, however, several studies demonstrating that Dead Sea minerals can have a positive effect on psoriatic skin, a practice known as climatotherapy (Sources: International Journal of Dermatology, October 2007, pages 1087–1091; Journal of Dermatological Treatment, May-June 2005, pages 308–313; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, September 2003, pages 451–457). Psoriasis is a skin condition characterized by rapidly dividing, overactive skin cells. How the Dead Sea minerals and salts affect psoriasis is still being debated. One of the more popular theories is that the mineral content of the water slows down the out-of-control cell division. Some research indicates that the benefit is cumulative and that the results can last for up to five months. Immersing psoriasis-afflicted skin in Dead Sea minerals is also a treatment that is better-tolerated than many conventional medical options.

Studies by the Department of Medicine and Department of Epidemiology and Dermatology at the Soroka Medical Center of Kupat-Holim in Israel and Ben-Gurion University of the Negev on psoriasis and other skin rashes noted that "improvement [in skin] was found when patients soaked in two pounds/one kilo for three baths per week, for a period of six weeks." Now that's a lot of Dead Sea water, and certainly not the amount you would get by using these products. Most important, however, if you are looking for Dead Sea water to heal wrinkles, think again, because wrinkles are completely unrelated to psoriasis or other skin rashes.

Even if Dead Sea salts could benefit normal skin in some way, the amount you'll find in the Ahava products and products from other Dead Sea–oriented lines are infinitesimally small in comparison with the amounts used in the published studies, and your skin deserves so much more than these one-note products can deliver. For more information about Ahava, call (800) 366-7254 or visit www.ahavaus.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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