02.19.2013
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Time To Hydrate Gentle Eye Cream
Rating
0.5 fl. oz. for $32
Category:Skin Care > Retinol Products > Eye Moisturizers
Last Updated:02.19.2013
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

Although this eye cream has a silky texture, it isn't what you want to reach for when the skin around your eyes "thirsts for more moisture," as this product claims. The formula lacks emollients, plant oils, and the skin-repairing ingredients dry skin anywhere on your face needs to look and feel hydrated and younger.

In terms of gentleness, this doesn't contain fragrance or fragrant plant extracts like so many Ahava products do, which is good. But then we must ask: Why does the eye area get the benefit of a fragrance-free product while skin on the rest of your face gets irritated from the products that do contain fragrance? Skin does best without the burden of fragrance. Both synthetic and natural fragrance ingredients cause irritation for all skin types, which in turn causes collagen to break down and hurts the skin's healing process.

It's great that this product contains antioxidants, but disappointing that it is packaged in a jar because the jar packaging allows the antioxidants to lose their effectiveness (see More Info for further details).

Pros:
  • Silky cream texture feels great.
  • Fragrance-free.
Cons:
  • Jar packaging compromises the effectiveness of the antioxidants.
  • Doesn't contain ingredients that provide rich moisture for "thirsty" dry skin around the eyes.

More Info:

The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

Most eye creams aren't necessary. That's either because they are poorly formulated, contain nothing special for the eye area, or come in packaging that won't keep key ingredients stable. Just because the product is labeled as an eye cream doesn't mean it's good for your eye area; in fact, many can actually make matters worse.

There is much you can do to improve signs of aging around your eyes. Any product loaded with antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, skin-lightening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and effective emollients will work wonders and those ingredients don't have to come from a product labeled as an eye cream.

You would be shocked how many eye creams lack even the most basic ingredients to help skin. For example, most eye creams don't contain sunscreen. During the day that is a serious problem because it leaves the skin around your eyes vulnerable to sun damage and this absolutely will make dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles worse!

Whatever product you put around your eye area, regardless of what it is labeled, must be well formulated and appropriate for the skin type around your eyes! That may mean you need an eye cream, but you may also do just as well applying your regular facial moisturizer around your eyes.

The Dead Sea water in this product offers no special benefit for skin. If anything, because water from the Dead Sea is so salty and because it also contains sulfur along with other irritating minerals, it ends up being drying and irritating for all skin types. Soaking in Dead Sea water can have benefit for those with certain types of skin rashes, but there is no research showing it has benefit as a skin-care ingredient.

Claims

The delicate skin around my eyes thirsts for more moisture. This rich, natural-blend cream of Dead Sea minerals, selected botanical essences and skin-healthy vitamins helps me look out on the world with a visibly younger perspective.

Ingredients

Mineral Spring Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/ PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Isostearyl Isostearate, Glycerin, Propylene Carbonate, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butylene Glycol, Ruscus Aculeatus Root (Butcherbroom) Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maris Sal (Dead Sea Water), Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1Dimethicone, Saccharide Isomerate, Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5), Allantoin, Bisabolol, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob Bean) Gum, Dunaliella Salina (Dead Sea Alga) Extract, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Oblipicha) Fruit Oil

Brand Overview

Ahava At-A-Glance

Strengths: Most of the cleansers are good.

Weaknesses: Expensive; several of the daytime moisturizers with sunscreen do not list active ingredients; Dead Sea mud is not the cure-all for anyone's aging skin; disappointing toners; lackluster moisturizers and serums; jar packaging; no AHA or BHA products; no products to manage acne; no products to lighten skin discolorations; average masks; irritating men's products.

Ahava is the Hebrew word for love, and this group has adopted it for these skin-care products imported from Israel. Other than the endearing title, the point of difference for Ahava is that their products contain salts and minerals from the Dead Sea in Israel. So, you ask, is your skin going to love these products because they contain Dead Sea water? Supposedly, Cleopatra did, and, of course, she must have had skin to die for, or else Mark Antony wouldn't have risked everything for her. Is that a good enough reason to consider these products for your own skin-care routine? We hope not. Aside from the folklore, there is little truth behind the hype—why would anyone believe that Cleopatra knew any more about skin care than she did about computers or cell phones—and skin care in this millennium is indeed akin to rocket science.

Keep in mind the Dead Sea in Israel is called "dead" because nothing can live in it (technically, there are some bacteria and fungi that can). There are many environmental factors that contribute to making the Dead Sea one of the saltiest lakes in the world, but we won't get into that discussion. A comparison should give you an idea of just how salty it is. The seawater in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans has a salt content of 3–4%, while the Dead Sea has a salt content of 32%, as well as a large concentration of minerals such as sulfur, magnesium, calcium, bromide, and potassium. If you haven't been to the Dead Sea, we can tell you the aroma of the sulfur in the water is overwhelming. It is hard to imagine that anything so noxious would be considered a desirable beauty treatment.

Despite the smell and the high mineral content, there are no clinical studies or research showing that Dead Sea minerals have any effect on wrinkles, discolorations, sagging skin, or acne. There are, however, several studies demonstrating that Dead Sea minerals can have a positive effect on psoriatic skin, a practice known as climatotherapy (Sources: International Journal of Dermatology, October 2007, pages 1087–1091; Journal of Dermatological Treatment, May-June 2005, pages 308–313; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, September 2003, pages 451–457). Psoriasis is a skin condition characterized by rapidly dividing, overactive skin cells. How the Dead Sea minerals and salts affect psoriasis is still being debated. One of the more popular theories is that the mineral content of the water slows down the out-of-control cell division. Some research indicates that the benefit is cumulative and that the results can last for up to five months. Immersing psoriasis-afflicted skin in Dead Sea minerals is also a treatment that is better-tolerated than many conventional medical options.

Studies by the Department of Medicine and Department of Epidemiology and Dermatology at the Soroka Medical Center of Kupat-Holim in Israel and Ben-Gurion University of the Negev on psoriasis and other skin rashes noted that "improvement [in skin] was found when patients soaked in two pounds/one kilo for three baths per week, for a period of six weeks." Now that's a lot of Dead Sea water, and certainly not the amount you would get by using these products. Most important, however, if you are looking for Dead Sea water to heal wrinkles, think again, because wrinkles are completely unrelated to psoriasis or other skin rashes.

Even if Dead Sea salts could benefit normal skin in some way, the amount you'll find in the Ahava products and products from other Dead Sea–oriented lines are infinitesimally small in comparison with the amounts used in the published studies, and your skin deserves so much more than these one-note products can deliver. For more information about Ahava, call (800) 366-7254 or visit www.ahavaus.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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