Time To Smooth Age Control All Day Moisturizer SPF 15

by Ahava  Time to Smooth
Price:
$58 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
8/24/2012
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This lightweight daytime moisturizer contains sunscreen ingredients, but because they are not listed as active you absolutely cannot count on it for sun protection. The sunscreen ingredients include octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (more commonly known as avobenzone, a very good UVA/anti-aging sunscreen), and ethylhexyl salicylate. These do provide sun protection, but in the United States and several other countries they must be called out as active rather than listed with the other ingredients so you know how much of them you're getting.

This product has other drawbacks as well, including a fairly average formula whose antioxidant content isn't that impressive (and your skin can definitely benefit from antioxidants when combined with sunscreen). Moreover, the antioxidants this contains won’t remain stable for long because of the jar packaging. See More Info below for details on why jar packaging is a problem.

All told, this is a costly product for what amounts to an average formula and iffy sun protection. If you decide to take your chances, it is suitable for normal to slightly oily skin.

Pros:
  • Lightweight texture works well under makeup.
Cons:
  • Expensive.
  • Jar packaging compromises the effectiveness of the antioxidants.
  • Sunscreen ingredients are not listed as active, so this is unreliable for daily sun protection.
  • Contains fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation (though they are present in low amounts).
  • Too few state-of-the-art ingredients, making this a poor choice for anti-aging.

More Info:

The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

The Dead Sea water in this product offers no special benefit for skin. If anything, because water from the Dead Sea is so salty and because it also contains sulfur along with other irritating minerals, it ends up being drying and irritating for all skin types. Soaking in Dead Sea water can have benefit for those with certain types of skin rashes, but there is no research showing it has benefit as a skin-care ingredient.

I enjoy the feeling of this light daytime cream on my face. Powered by Dead Sea minerals, Dunaliella algae and date palm extract, it hydrates my skin and protects it from sun damage. Fine lines and wrinkles begin to smoothen and fade and I look visibly younger.

Mineral Spring Water, Octocrylene, Isohexadecane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Stearyl Alcohol, Squalene (Phytosqualene), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethame, Cyclomethicone, Propylene Carbonate, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, PEG-40 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Olivate , Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Alanine, Creatine, Glycerin, Glycine, Magnesium Aspartate, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Urea, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Maris Sal (Dead Sea Water), Butylene Glycol , Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Water, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Cyclomethicone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Propylene Glycol, PVM/MA Copolymer, Fragrance, Dunaliella Salina (Dead Sea Alga) Extract, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, PVP, Lecithin, Squalene (Phytosqualene), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Beta - Sitosterol , Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate, C 13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7 , Polyacrylamide, Butylphenyl Ethylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Geraniol

Ahava is the Hebrew word for love, and this group has adopted it for these skin-care products imported from Israel. Other than the endearing title, the point of difference for Ahava is that their products contain salts and minerals from the Dead Sea in Israel. So, you ask, is your skin going to love these products because they contain Dead Sea water? Supposedly, Cleopatra did, and, of course, she must have had skin to die for, or else Mark Antony wouldn't have risked everything for her. Is that a good enough reason to consider these products for your own skin-care routine? We hope not. Aside from the folklore, there is little truth behind the hype—why would anyone believe that Cleopatra knew any more about skin care than she did about computers or cell phones—and skin care in this millennium is indeed akin to rocket science.

Keep in mind the Dead Sea in Israel is called "dead" because nothing can live in it (technically, there are some bacteria and fungi that can). There are many environmental factors that contribute to making the Dead Sea one of the saltiest lakes in the world, but we won't get into that discussion. A comparison should give you an idea of just how salty it is. The seawater in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans has a salt content of 3–4%, while the Dead Sea has a salt content of 32%, as well as a large concentration of minerals such as sulfur, magnesium, calcium, bromide, and potassium. If you haven't been to the Dead Sea, we can tell you the aroma of the sulfur in the water is overwhelming. It is hard to imagine that anything so noxious would be considered a desirable beauty treatment.

Despite the smell and the high mineral content, there are no clinical studies or research showing that Dead Sea minerals have any effect on wrinkles, discolorations, sagging skin, or acne. There are, however, several studies demonstrating that Dead Sea minerals can have a positive effect on psoriatic skin, a practice known as climatotherapy (Sources: International Journal of Dermatology, October 2007, pages 1087–1091; Journal of Dermatological Treatment, May-June 2005, pages 308–313; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, September 2003, pages 451–457). Psoriasis is a skin condition characterized by rapidly dividing, overactive skin cells. How the Dead Sea minerals and salts affect psoriasis is still being debated. One of the more popular theories is that the mineral content of the water slows down the out-of-control cell division. Some research indicates that the benefit is cumulative and that the results can last for up to five months. Immersing psoriasis-afflicted skin in Dead Sea minerals is also a treatment that is better-tolerated than many conventional medical options.

Studies by the Department of Medicine and Department of Epidemiology and Dermatology at the Soroka Medical Center of Kupat-Holim in Israel and Ben-Gurion University of the Negev on psoriasis and other skin rashes noted that "improvement [in skin] was found when patients soaked in two pounds/one kilo for three baths per week, for a period of six weeks." Now that's a lot of Dead Sea water, and certainly not the amount you would get by using these products. Most important, however, if you are looking for Dead Sea water to heal wrinkles, think again, because wrinkles are completely unrelated to psoriasis or other skin rashes.

Even if Dead Sea salts could benefit normal skin in some way, the amount you'll find in the Ahava products and products from other Dead Sea–oriented lines are infinitesimally small in comparison with the amounts used in the published studies, and your skin deserves so much more than these one-note products can deliver. For more information about Ahava, call (800) 366-7254 or visit www.ahavaus.com.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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