Tested on animals:No
Super Goji Peptide Perfecting Cream contains a skin-pleasing mix of emollients such as jojoba oil and shea butter plus barrier-repair ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and fatty acids. The result is a good moisturizer for those with normal to dry skin not prone to breakouts. Andalou Naturals also added a comprehensive variety of antioxidants—goji, cucumber, resveratrol, CoQ10, and vitamin C, and more make an appearance (for good measure, there are anti-irritants as well).
The downside is the low level of fragrance in the form of orange oil, but the amount is likely low enough that it won’t be a problem for most people.
Given the pros of this product, you may be curious why it earned only an AVERAGE rating. It’s because Andalou Naturals packaged this impressive formula in a jar. Moisturizers in jar packaging short you of the benefits promised—primarily because the ingredients break down when exposed to the air. See More Info for details on jar packaging.
Rather than compromise, we recommend considering the alternatives on our list of Best Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime), all of which are packaged to protect their ingredients from routine exposure to air and light.
It’s interesting to point out that this product gets its name from one of its ingredients: Lycium barbarum Glycopeptide, from the goji plant. As a plant extract, goji can be a good antioxidant and certainly has cult status, as far as drinking the juice or eating the plant itself.
However, the benefits of the glycopeptide version are less clear. There is some research, on cells in labs or on animals, showing it to have some benefits, but they are not related to skin care. Most likely, this is not bad for you skin, but whether it’s worth a headline is mostly a guess and not established science.
One last note: Please totally ignore the claims made about the fruit stem cell ingredients (see More Info if you wish to read the considerable details explaining why). While these ingredients aren’t harmful or irritating to the skin (and can have antioxidant benefit), there is no research to support the claims of regenerating skin or functioning like your skin’s own stem cells, which would push this product from its status as a cosmetic to a drug. The notion that plant stem cells can “renew dormant cells, repair damaged cells, or regenerate healthy cells” may be true for a plant, but it isn’t for human skin.
- Contains an impressive mix of emollients that benefit dry skin.
- Includes a blend of antioxidants, anti-irritants, and skin-repairing ingredients that helps the skin look and act younger.
- Packaged in a jar, which exposes the delicate antioxidants and other anti-aging ingredients to air and light, reducing their effectiveness.
- Contains a small amount of fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation.
- Plant stem cells don't renew or generate human cells of any kind.
Jar Packaging: The fact that this cream is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won’t remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
Stem Cells in Skin Care: Stem cells are cells in animals and plants that are capable of becoming any other type of cell in that organism and of producing more of those cells. Despite the fact that stem cell research is in its infancy, many cosmetics companies claim they are successfully using plant-based or human-derived stem cells in their anti-aging products. The claims run the gamut, from reducing wrinkles to elastin repair and cell regeneration, so the temptation for consumers to try these is intense.
The truth is that stem cells in skin-care products do not work as claimed. In fact, they likely have no effect at all because stem cells must be alive to function as stem cells. Once these delicate cells are added to skin-care products, they are long dead and, therefore, useless.
Plant stem cells, such as those derived from apples, melons, flowers, and rice, cannot stimulate stem cells in human skin, but because they are from plants these ingredients likely have antioxidant
properties. Actually, it’s a good thing plant stem cells can’t work as stem cells in skin-care products; after all, you don’t want your skin to absorb cells that can grow into apples or watermelons!
There are also claims that because a plant’s stem cells allow a plant to repair itself or to survive in harsh climates, these benefits can be passed on to human skin. How a plant functions in nature is unrelated to human skin, and these claims are completely without substantiation.
Another twist on the issue is that cosmetics company’s claim they have taken components (such as peptides) out of the plant stem cells and made them stable so they then can work as stem cells. This approach is not valid because stem cells must be complete to function normally. Even if you could isolate substances or extracts from these cells and make them stable, there is no published research showing they can affect stem cells in human skin.