Green Science Firming Eye Creme

by Aveda  Green Science
Price:
$47 - 15 ml
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Eye Moisturizers
Last Updated:
4/9/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
No

All of the Green Science products from Aveda carry on about the argan oil they contain. This oil comes from tree nuts native to Morocco, and is said to be rich in vitamin E and linoleic acid. Of course, Aveda also mentions the Moroccan Berbers, natives who’ve supposedly used this oil for centuries for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. That must mean it’s something special (though keep in mind other natural ingredients, such as lead, were also used for cosmetic purposes until we learned how harmful it can be) but what does published research have to say about argan oil? Not much. The only study concerning topical application of argan oil has shown its oil-controlling, not moisturizing, properties. The remaining body of research has to do with the oil’s benefits when consumed orally, and includes studies related to prostate cancer, the circulatory system, and cancer.

We do know that argan oil contains beneficial components, including essential fatty acids and the antioxidants vitamin E and ferulic acid. In that sense, argan oil can be considered a reliable antioxidant, though not necessarily any better than other plant oils such as olive or pomegranate (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 113-118; Cancer Investigation, October 2006, pages 588-592; Clinical Nutrition, October 2004, pages 1,159-1,166; and European Journal of Cancer Prevention, February 2003, pages 67-75).

In the case of this eye cream, jar packaging will not keep the argan oil and other antioxidant ingredients stable once it is opened. In addition, the amount of rosemary extract in this eye cream and the inclusion of Thai ginger oil (also known as plai oil) makes this too irritating for skin. The science may be green, but that doesn’t guarantee smart skin care (Source: Biotechnology and Applied Biochemsitry, May 2008, pages 61-69)!

Moisturizes, helps smooth fine lines and reduces appearance of puffiness and dark circles. Lady's thistle, organic argan oil and cactus formula helps to moisturize skin and smooth fine lines. Peptides and plant-derived buckwheat wax help to minimize the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Aqueous (Water) Extracts: Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Selaginella Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Bertholletia Excelsa (Brazil Nut) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract, Opuntia Robusta, Silybum Marianum (Lady's Thistle) Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Zingiber Cassumunar (Plai) Root Oil, Ceramide 3, Glucosamine HCL, Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Caffeine, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Tocopherol, Cholesterol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Dipeptide-2, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Gluconate, Steareth-20, Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Phenoxyethanol

Aveda, part of the Estee Lauder Companies since 1997, offers natural-themed products that have evolved from a simple premise: what you put on your body should be as healthy and natural as what you put into it. Plants remain the major focus but—as has been true from the beginning—a quick look at Aveda's ingredient listings reveals many substances that aren't edible in the least. Who would want to eat isostearyl benzoate, cetyl ricinoleate, diazolidinyl urea, or octinoxate (a synthetic sunscreen ingredient)? We could go on, but you get our drift.

The company vigorously promotes its use of natural "pure-fume" aromas that create each product's scent. Yet regardless of whether or not a product's fragrance is natural or synthetic, the potential for irritation is still there along with a host of other problems. In fact, many of the essential oils used in Aveda products have a documented history of unpleasant side effects, including allergies, phototoxic reactions, and dermatitis. They may smell wonderful, but fragrance isn't skin care.

Aveda would truly like you to believe that it is in fact the flower and plant essences in its products that are doing the "work." If that were true, why bother using so many of the industry-standard ingredients seen in products from other cosmetics companies? Many of the highlighted plant ingredients merely contribute to the fragrance of the products. That's an obvious draw, but it's not enough to ensure a great (or even good) product. It has also been well established that once many of these plants and oils are purified and processed for use in cosmetics, they retain very little of their original benefit—though that doesn't mean they are worthless ingredients for skin. Furthermore, the manner in which Aveda discusses many of their plant ingredients on their Web site speaks more to historic and folkloric use rather than to published research that establishes a genuine benefit. It may seem intriguing to consumers that some plants have been "used for centuries to cleanse the skin and hair," but lots of things used a long time ago would be a problem today, including lead in cosmetics, not using sunscreen, absence of barrier repair substances and cell-communicating ingredients, and on and on. History doesn't always translate to eternal efficacy or safety, and it shouldn't be a deciding factor when you're choosing a skin-care routine.

One natural point Aveda has every reason to be proud of is its ongoing commitment to the environment and use of sustainable resources, including packaging made from recycled (and recyclable) materials. The company has many programs in place that support its mission statement of caring for the world we live in and giving back to society. What needs to happen to complement the philanthropy is a focus on weeding out the troublesome plant ingredients (perhaps saving them for use in their scented candles instead), and creating products built around plants whose benefits for skin are unquestionable because they are supported by substantiated research rather than referring to cultural traditions.

For more information about Aveda, owned by Estee Lauder, call 1-800-644-4831 or visit www.aveda.com

Aveda Makeup

Makeup has never been Aveda's strong suit, though it often bests their skin care line. They do their natural best to try to remain competitive and, lately, even trendy. Several of their complexion-enhancing products were reformulated, but with mixed results. For example, while the concealer improved and their already-great tinted moisturizer remained the same, the latest foundations and powders contain shine at levels ranging from subtle to showgirl. We're not opposed to shine, but am a proponent of using it judiciously and not over wrinkles because it only emphasizes them. Shade-wise, Aveda offers some surprisingly good foundation choices for fair to dark skin. The blush, eyeshadow, pencils, and most of the lip-enhancing options aren't impressive when compared to the best options in these categories from other lines, but they're by no means terrible.

In contrast and of note are the wonderfully soft, well-shaped synthetic-hair makeup brushes. They aren't as much of a beauty bargain as they were, but the improvements justify the expense and they still cost less than many department-store brushes. Overall, while Aveda's makeup isn't as extensive or all-encompassing as those from other Lauder-owned lines, there are a few genuinely superb products to consider if you watch out for the overemphasis on plant ingredients. Yes, most of the products contain plenty of plant extracts, emollients, and waxes. However, they're working in concert with many of the unnatural ingredients that are required to create modern textures and silky applications. Aloe and flax alone do not a spectacular eyeshadow make!

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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