04.09.2013
1
4
Green Science Firming Face Creme
Rating
1.7 fl. oz. for $58
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:04.09.2013
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

All of the Green Science products from Aveda make a big deal about the argan oil they contain. This oil comes from tree nuts native to Morocco, and is said to be rich in vitamin E and linoleic acid. Of course, Aveda also mentions the native Moroccan Berbers, natives who’ve supposedly used this oil for centuries for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. That must mean it’s something special (though keep in mind other natural ingredients, such as lead, were also used for cosmetic purposes until we learned how harmful it can be)

What does published research have to say about argan oil? Not much. The only study concerning topical application of argan oil has shown its oil-controlling, not moisturizing, properties. The remaining body of research has to do with the oil’s benefits when consumed orally, and includes studies related to prostate cancer, the circulatory system, and cancer. We do know that argan oil contains beneficial components, including essential fatty acids and the antioxidants vitamin E and ferulic acid. In that sense, argan oil can be considered a reliable antioxidant, though not necessarily any better than other plant oils such as olive or pomegranate (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 113-118; Cancer Investigation, October 2006, pages 588-592; Clinical Nutrition, October 2004, pages 1,159-1,166; and European Journal of Cancer Prevention, February 2003, pages 67-75).

In the case of this moisturizer, jar packaging will quickly render the antioxidant capability of argan oil unstable, and will also negatively affect the other antioxidants and plant ingredients in this product. The amount plai oil (also known as Thai ginger) retains many of the volatile components that make common ginger so irritating to skin (Source: Biotechnology and Applied Biochemsitry, May 2008, pages 61-69). This also contains fragrance ingredients that can contribute to skin’s irritation response and aren’t all that “green”. What a shame; several ingredients in this moisturizer are a boon for dry to very dry skin.

Claims

Lady's thistle, organic argan oil and cactus formula helps to moisturize skin and smooth fine lines. Glucosamine, anti-oxidants and peptides help to improve visible skin firmness, moisturize, and strengthen skin's barrier function.

Ingredients

Water, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, C14-22 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Optunia Robusta, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Zingiber Cassumunar (Plai) Root Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Caffeine, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Tocopherol, Cholesterol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance (Parfum), Geraniol, Linalool, Farnesol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Limonene

Brand Overview

Aveda At-A-Glance

Strengths: Effective use of beneficial plant oils and extracts in some products; an excellent moisturizing mask; a few good cleansers; phenomenal tinted moisturizer; terrific brushes and refillable compacts.

Weaknesses: Several products contain irritating essential oils or fragrance components known to cause sun sensitivity or skin cell death; disappointing anti-acne products; substandard exfoliants and toners; treatment products that can irritate skin; several lip color products contains irritating fragrant oils.

Aveda, part of the Estee Lauder Companies since 1997, offers natural-themed products that have evolved from a simple premise: what you put on your body should be as healthy and natural as what you put into it. Plants remain the major focus but—as has been true from the beginning—a quick look at Aveda's ingredient listings reveals many substances that aren't edible in the least. Who would want to eat isostearyl benzoate, cetyl ricinoleate, diazolidinyl urea, or octinoxate (a synthetic sunscreen ingredient)? We could go on, but you get our drift.

The company vigorously promotes its use of natural "pure-fume" aromas that create each product's scent. Yet regardless of whether or not a product's fragrance is natural or synthetic, the potential for irritation is still there along with a host of other problems. In fact, many of the essential oils used in Aveda products have a documented history of unpleasant side effects, including allergies, phototoxic reactions, and dermatitis. They may smell wonderful, but fragrance isn't skin care.

Aveda would truly like you to believe that it is in fact the flower and plant essences in its products that are doing the "work." If that were true, why bother using so many of the industry-standard ingredients seen in products from other cosmetics companies? Many of the highlighted plant ingredients merely contribute to the fragrance of the products. That's an obvious draw, but it's not enough to ensure a great (or even good) product. It has also been well established that once many of these plants and oils are purified and processed for use in cosmetics, they retain very little of their original benefit—though that doesn't mean they are worthless ingredients for skin. Furthermore, the manner in which Aveda discusses many of their plant ingredients on their Web site speaks more to historic and folkloric use rather than to published research that establishes a genuine benefit. It may seem intriguing to consumers that some plants have been "used for centuries to cleanse the skin and hair," but lots of things used a long time ago would be a problem today, including lead in cosmetics, not using sunscreen, absence of barrier repair substances and cell-communicating ingredients, and on and on. History doesn't always translate to eternal efficacy or safety, and it shouldn't be a deciding factor when you're choosing a skin-care routine.

One natural point Aveda has every reason to be proud of is its ongoing commitment to the environment and use of sustainable resources, including packaging made from recycled (and recyclable) materials. The company has many programs in place that support its mission statement of caring for the world we live in and giving back to society. What needs to happen to complement the philanthropy is a focus on weeding out the troublesome plant ingredients (perhaps saving them for use in their scented candles instead), and creating products built around plants whose benefits for skin are unquestionable because they are supported by substantiated research rather than referring to cultural traditions.

For more information about Aveda, owned by Estee Lauder, call 1-800-644-4831 or visit www.aveda.com

Aveda Makeup

Makeup has never been Aveda's strong suit, though it often bests their skin care line. They do their natural best to try to remain competitive and, lately, even trendy. Several of their complexion-enhancing products were reformulated, but with mixed results. For example, while the concealer improved and their already-great tinted moisturizer remained the same, the latest foundations and powders contain shine at levels ranging from subtle to showgirl. We're not opposed to shine, but am a proponent of using it judiciously and not over wrinkles because it only emphasizes them. Shade-wise, Aveda offers some surprisingly good foundation choices for fair to dark skin. The blush, eyeshadow, pencils, and most of the lip-enhancing options aren't impressive when compared to the best options in these categories from other lines, but they're by no means terrible.

In contrast and of note are the wonderfully soft, well-shaped synthetic-hair makeup brushes. They aren't as much of a beauty bargain as they were, but the improvements justify the expense and they still cost less than many department-store brushes. Overall, while Aveda's makeup isn't as extensive or all-encompassing as those from other Lauder-owned lines, there are a few genuinely superb products to consider if you watch out for the overemphasis on plant ingredients. Yes, most of the products contain plenty of plant extracts, emollients, and waxes. However, they're working in concert with many of the unnatural ingredients that are required to create modern textures and silky applications. Aloe and flax alone do not a spectacular eyeshadow make!

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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04.23.2014
Green Science? Save your greenbacks

This moisturizer did literally nothing of benefit for my skin. I found it to be way too thick to spread evenly; even when trying to emulsify in my fingertips before application. There were no benefits of smoother or softer skin, not even immediately upon application! Absolutely no extended results either that I could detect. No smoothness, plumpness, improved texture or appearance; nothing - not even a sense of being at least somewhat moisturized!? Don't bother.

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