D-Pigment Light Dark Spot Corrector

by Avène  
Price:
$49 - 1.01 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Lighteners Without Hydroquinone
Last Updated:
5/21/2014
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This skin-lightening lotion has a silky, lightweight texture that feels nice, but its ability to "prevent dark spots after 4 weeks" is without proof because in truth the only product that can prevent dark spots is a broad-spectrum sunscreen. A skin lightener can fade dark spots and, to some extent, prevent new ones from becoming darker, but skin-lightening products alone cannot prevent dark spots (yes, sunscreen is that important—as is applying it every day, even when it's cloudy).

The only skin-lightening ingredient of note is phenylethyl resorcinol, yet the amount is low and, more important, research on this ingredient's ability to lighten dark spots is limited. The most compelling research looked at the results of a cream with phenylethyl resorcinol plus three other skin-lightening agents. The product was applied over a period of 3 months by 20 women, all of whom also used sunscreen. At the end of the study, it was determined that the women's dark spots decreased by 43%. The problem is we don't know how much of this improvement is due to phenylethyl resorcinol, as it wasn't used alone, which is the case with D-Pigment Light Dark Spot Corrector (Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2011, pages 189–196). In short, this isn't a product to bank on for great results if dark spots are your concern.

On the other hand, the formula does contain a form of retinol (listed as retrinal) that can improve skin tone and potentially stimulate collagen. That's great, yet you can find retinol in lots of other products that cost less yet treat skin to a greater range of anti-aging ingredients.

Pros:
  • None.
Cons:
  • None.

Light formula, enriched with shine-reducing powders, brightens skin tone. Clinically proven to reduce and prevent dark spots after 4 weeks while evening skin tone and restoring radiance.

Water (Aqua), Triethylhexanoin, Cyclomethicone, Avene Thermal Spring Water (Avene Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-33, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Benzoic Acid BHT Disodium EDTA, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Oenthera Biennis Oil), Phenoxyethanol Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Red 33 (Ci 17200), Retrinal, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol Glucoside.

Building an entire skin-care line on a single concept, however meaningless that concept may be, is often all it takes to capture the attention of consumers, just because it sounds so convincing. Such is the case with Eau Thermale Avene, a France-based line whose claim to fame is the thermal spring water in its products.

The company's history is laced with romanticized folklore of the allegedly restorative power of this water, with some tales dating back to the 1700s. Building a skin-care line around what was known (or, more accurately, unknown) about skin 300 years ago doesn't make sense, because 300 years ago no one knew anything about skin care or how skin functions; certainly no one knew about sun damage or free-radical damage. For goodness sakes, women in the 1700s were using face powders laced with lead, and who would want to emulate that? Still, the stories Eau Thermale Avene concocts must be convincing some people to buy their products or we wouldn't have been contacted several times per week by readers asking me to review this line.

Avene maintains that their thermal spring water is curative not only because of its historical proof (more anecdotes than proof), but also scientifically because of its low mineral content and pure, pristine source. The company's owner (Pierre Fabre Laboratories) claims to have conducted over 150 clinical studies. However, as you might suspect, there only a handful of published studies, and they all are related to the supposed healing power of Avene's thermal spring water when applied to skin that's been compromised by exposure to radiation or by cosmetic corrective procedures, such as light-emitting devices. Their studies showed that the water has soothing properties and that it helped damaged skin heal faster when compared with the effects of another type of spring water, the standard post-burn treatment, or randomly selected skin-care products.

As convincing as that sounds, the studies don't hold water for several reasons: first, the improvement seen from Avene's thermal spring water was nominal compared with the control; second, the studies were sponsored by Avene; and third, the studies didn't show how the spring water may have fared against numerous established topical anti-irritants or other FDA-approved skin protectants (Sources: Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, Special Edition, January 2008, pages 5–10; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 31–35; and Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2007, pages 924–928).

Avene offers additional studies on their Web site, but the majority again are published in the company's own publications; and none were peer-reviewed. Bottom line: There is absolutely no evidence that any type of thermal spring water allows skin to resist or correct signs of aging. Helping skin maintain its barrier is great, but there is abundant research showing that substances such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin do a far better job.

To its credit, Avene does offer some worthwhile products for sensitive skin. Yet they also offer products that can be problematic for sensitive skin because they contain fragrance and other potentially harmful ingredients. More important is the lack of significant anti-irritants that could have been extremely helpful for those with sensitive skin.

For the most part, unless you're a believer in the company's thermal spring water, there is little reason to get excited about their products. They offer some good cleansers, alternatives to retinol (using a similar ingredient known as retinal and retinaldehyde, which is one of the more effective derivatives of retinol), and some basic yet effective moisturizers for sensitive skin that's also dry.

Given this line's penchant for extolling antiquated skin-care fables, it shouldn't be surprising that their products lack an impressive selection of state-of-the-art ingredients whose benefits for skin are substantiated by reams of research. Interestingly, many of the claims prevalent throughout the cosmetics industry are found here, too, but without the formulas to support them and to actually deliver remarkable antiwrinkle results.

For more information about Eau Thermale Avene, call (866) 412-8363 or visit www.aveneusa.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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