Eluage Eye Contour Care

by Avène  
Price:
$40 - 0.5 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Eye Moisturizers
Last Updated:
5/21/2014
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This eye cream is nearly identical to Avene’s Eluage Cream, which is sold as a facial moisturizer. The eye cream is fragrance-free, and that’s great, but that’s the most significant difference (and it must be said that, whether around the eyes or elsewhere, skin does better with fragrance-free products). Given its strong similarity to the Eulage Cream facial moisturizer, we’re reminded once again that eye creams aren’t necessary (see More Info for details). Otherwise, the same review applies: The only anti-aging ingredients of note in this moisturizer for normal to dry skin are sodium hyaluronate and retinal, the latter also known as retinaldehyde, an effective derivative of vitamin A. Unfortunately, both ingredients are present only in teeny-tiny amounts, so this isn’t what we’d consider anti-aging, and it has no special ability to improve signs of aging around the eyes; there’s more red dye and preservative in this ordinary formula than either of the beneficial ingredients. On the plus side, this is packaged so that the retinal remains stable during use.

This misses the mark by not including a range of anti-aging ingredients that help repair skin, encourage healthier cell production, and soothe irritation. It’s little more than an average cream, and your skin deserves (and, in fact, needs) better.

Pros:
  • Contains some good ingredients for dry skin.
Cons:
  • Anti-aging superstar ingredients sodium hyaluronate and retinal are present in nearly insignificant amounts.
  • Expensive considering its mediocre formula.
  • Lacks the range of anti-aging ingredients skin needs to look and act younger.

More Info:

Why You May Not Need an Eye Cream

Most eye creams aren't necessary. That's either because they are poorly formulated, contain nothing special for the eye area, or come in packaging that won't keep key ingredients stable. Just because the product is labeled as an eye cream doesn't mean it's good for your eye area; in fact, many can actually make matters worse.

There is much you can do to improve signs of aging around your eyes. Any product loaded with antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, skin-lightening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and effective emollients will work wonders and those ingredients don't have to come from a product labeled as an eye cream.

You would be shocked how many eye creams lack even the most basic ingredients to help skin. For example, most eye creams don't contain sunscreen. During the day that is a serious problem because it leaves the skin around your eyes vulnerable to sun damage and this absolutely will make dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles worse!

Whatever product you put around your eye area, regardless of what it is labeled, must be well formulated and appropriate for the skin type around your eyes! That may mean you need an eye cream, but you may also do just as well applying your regular facial moisturizer around your eyes.

Corrective anti-aging cream formulated with a patented combination of Retinaldehyde and exclusive Hyaluronic Acid Fragments (HAF) visibly reduces the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles in the eye contour area.

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Ceteareth-20, Glycol Montanate, Cyclomethicone, Triethanolamine, Ceteareth-33, BHT, Butylparaben, Carbomer, Dextran Sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Propylparaben, Red 33, Retinal Sodium Hyaluronate

Building an entire skin-care line on a single concept, however meaningless that concept may be, is often all it takes to capture the attention of consumers, just because it sounds so convincing. Such is the case with Eau Thermale Avene, a France-based line whose claim to fame is the thermal spring water in its products.

The company's history is laced with romanticized folklore of the allegedly restorative power of this water, with some tales dating back to the 1700s. Building a skin-care line around what was known (or, more accurately, unknown) about skin 300 years ago doesn't make sense, because 300 years ago no one knew anything about skin care or how skin functions; certainly no one knew about sun damage or free-radical damage. For goodness sakes, women in the 1700s were using face powders laced with lead, and who would want to emulate that? Still, the stories Eau Thermale Avene concocts must be convincing some people to buy their products or we wouldn't have been contacted several times per week by readers asking me to review this line.

Avene maintains that their thermal spring water is curative not only because of its historical proof (more anecdotes than proof), but also scientifically because of its low mineral content and pure, pristine source. The company's owner (Pierre Fabre Laboratories) claims to have conducted over 150 clinical studies. However, as you might suspect, there only a handful of published studies, and they all are related to the supposed healing power of Avene's thermal spring water when applied to skin that's been compromised by exposure to radiation or by cosmetic corrective procedures, such as light-emitting devices. Their studies showed that the water has soothing properties and that it helped damaged skin heal faster when compared with the effects of another type of spring water, the standard post-burn treatment, or randomly selected skin-care products.

As convincing as that sounds, the studies don't hold water for several reasons: first, the improvement seen from Avene's thermal spring water was nominal compared with the control; second, the studies were sponsored by Avene; and third, the studies didn't show how the spring water may have fared against numerous established topical anti-irritants or other FDA-approved skin protectants (Sources: Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, Special Edition, January 2008, pages 5–10; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 31–35; and Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2007, pages 924–928).

Avene offers additional studies on their Web site, but the majority again are published in the company's own publications; and none were peer-reviewed. Bottom line: There is absolutely no evidence that any type of thermal spring water allows skin to resist or correct signs of aging. Helping skin maintain its barrier is great, but there is abundant research showing that substances such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin do a far better job.

To its credit, Avene does offer some worthwhile products for sensitive skin. Yet they also offer products that can be problematic for sensitive skin because they contain fragrance and other potentially harmful ingredients. More important is the lack of significant anti-irritants that could have been extremely helpful for those with sensitive skin.

For the most part, unless you're a believer in the company's thermal spring water, there is little reason to get excited about their products. They offer some good cleansers, alternatives to retinol (using a similar ingredient known as retinal and retinaldehyde, which is one of the more effective derivatives of retinol), and some basic yet effective moisturizers for sensitive skin that's also dry.

Given this line's penchant for extolling antiquated skin-care fables, it shouldn't be surprising that their products lack an impressive selection of state-of-the-art ingredients whose benefits for skin are substantiated by reams of research. Interestingly, many of the claims prevalent throughout the cosmetics industry are found here, too, but without the formulas to support them and to actually deliver remarkable antiwrinkle results.

For more information about Eau Thermale Avene, call (866) 412-8363 or visit www.aveneusa.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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