Anew Platinum Eye & Lip Cream

by Avon  Anew Platinum
Price:
$36 - 0.5 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
6/23/2014
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This is a fragrance-free moisturizer that claims to be special for the lips and eyes, but isn't. In fact, other than containing a small amount of some unusual ingredients, this is an average moisturizer masquerading as a specialty product. Avon boasts of their Paxillium Technology for this product, but all of their Anew Platinum products contain a blend of some ingredients they indirectly refer to as Paxillium Technology (discussed in More Info below), which doesn’t really set this one apart from the other Platinum products. Second, this product contains a mix of emollient ingredients that help moisturize, along with some absorbent (and potentially drying) ingredients (e.g., cornstarch and boron nitride) that ideally aren't the best in a product meant to hydrate skin and make it look less wrinkled.

In terms of Paxillium Technology, it is an interesting theory, but it doesn't translate into being the answer for signs of aging. Even if Paxillium Technology were the answer for aging skin around the eyes or lips, this product is packaged in a jar, and so won't keep the ingredients stable after opening (see More Info below for details on why jar packaging is a problem).

Pros:
  • Provides adequate hydration for dry skin.
  • Fragrance-free.
Cons:
  • Not a superior "treatment" with special benefits for skin around the eyes or on the lips.
  • Contains a mix of potentially drying ingredients that may diminish the emollient ingredients' ability to moisturize.
  • Jar packaging won't keep most of the beneficial ingredients stable.
  • Stimulating skin to produce more paxillin for healthier cells addresses only a fraction of what causes skin to look older (sort of like rebuilding a car but only being concerned about the muffler).

More info:

Avon's solution for treating signs of aging with their Anew Platinum line is to use their patented technology, which they claim boosts the production of paxillin, a type of protein involved in cell signaling pathways in skin. Essentially, paxillin finds and then uses cellular substances, such as enzymes and hormones, directing them to where they belong in the skin. When the correct connections occur, paxillin potentially can tell a cell (cell communication) to make better cells and that may increase collagen (Sources: www.nature.com/onc/journal/v20/n44/full/1204786a.html; and Critical Reviews in Oncognesis, volume 8, issue 4, 1997, pages 343–358).

What's missing from Avon's theory is that there are myriad other proteins and substances involved in cell communication as well, and there is no research proving that paxillin is the one responsible for correcting multiple signs of aging.

Even if paxillin could somehow shore up skin and enhance youthfulness, which would be a real leap of physiology, it doesn't address the numerous other factors (e.g., sun damage, gravity, fat pad shifting, bone loss, estrogen depletion, muscle laxity, and on and on) that cause skin to sag and lose its youthful contours, whether it's around the eyes, lips, jaw, cheeks, or anywhere else on the body.

The jar packaging is a problem because all plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air. Therefore, once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients, in this case the "Paxillium Technology," begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

By the way, Avon does not list "paxillium" or "paxillin" on the ingredient statement for this product. Plus, the trademark that Avon filed for this technology does not specify which ingredients their Anew Platinum formulas use to stimulate paxillin protein production in skin, but the products do contain some novel ingredients that may be part of this technology. Without knowing which ingredients Avon maintains stimulate paxillin in the skin, the best we can do is comment that the type of peptide included has theoretical cell-communicating ability and that the plant extracts, while exotic-sounding, don’t have any substantiated research pertaining to topical use for skin care or anti-aging. Thiazolylalanine is derived from peptides, and although there is some interesting research published about how this ingredient functions as a catalyst, the research involved carefully controlled settings and mixtures—not cosmetic formulas. In all likelihood, this ingredient is very unstable, and so will soon deteriorate in jar packaging.

The 1st eye & lip treatment formulated with Paxillium Technology to boost the production of Paxillin by 60% to help restore youthful cell shape. 77% saw more youthful definition in the eye & lip areas.

Water, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, PEG-40 Stearate, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Boron Nitride, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Butylene Glycol, Petrolatum, Thiodipropionic Acid, Nonenol, Sapindus Rarak (Soapberry) Fruit Extract, Pouzolzia Pentandra Extract, Thiazolylalanine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceteareth-20, Steareth-20,Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sucralose, Isopropyl Palmitate, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea

The last few years have been an interesting time for the world's largest direct seller. Avon is sold in 120 countries and has an enormous range of products that goes beyond skin care and makeup, all sold by five million Avon representatives racking up annual sales of over $8 billion (Source: www.avoncompany.com). Yet due to several quarters of lackluster or poor financial performance, the company announced a multiyear restructuring plan in 2006. The anticipated cost of these changes is upwards of $500 million, which includes downsizing underperforming areas and focusing on remarketing their star products. In recent years, those key products have had "cosmeceutical" appeal, with claims that have gone beyond reality (but overexaggerated claims sell big in the cosmetics industry).

The Anew Clinical line ushered in several products claiming to work like (or, in some instances, better than) cosmetic corrective procedures. Whether you are considering laser treatments, Botox, Thermage, collagen injections, or even liposuction, the ads for Anew Clinical were designed to make you rethink that decision.

It is definitely impressive that Avon invested $100 million on a state-of-the-art research and product development facility in New York, but despite some innovative products that compete with the best of the best (typically for much less money), no cosmetics company has (or will) produce skin-care products that rival or beat the results obtainable from medical procedures. It's admittedly easier to slather on a cream or stroke a pad over your face than to make an office call and shoulder the expense for a cosmetic corrective procedure, but in this case convenience and savings don't equal—or even come close to—comparable results. And lest we forget, despite the onslaught of so-called cosmeceutical products claiming to mimic the results such procedures provide, the number of these procedures being performed increases each year. If any of these works-like-(insert cosmetic corrective procedure here) products did work, the number of procedures would be declining, not rising.

The National Advertising Division (NAD) took issue with several claims Avon made in ads for their Anew Clinical products (Source: www.nadreview.org/default.asp?SessionID=1149178&DocType=1&CaseType=1). In some cases, Avon reworded their claims in ad reprints, while in others they "respectfully disagreed" with the NAD conclusions but agreed to take their comments into consideration for future ads. We'll see how this turns out, but, based on their current ads, the message remains that Anew Clinical products are at the forefront of making cosmetic corrective procedure results as easy as calling your Avon representative and reciting your credit card number.

As a major international cosmetics company, Avon has several initiatives in place that prove its commitment to women and the environment. Whether donating to women's health concerns (most notably breast cancer), surpassing environmental regulations, or financially supporting alternative methods to animal testing, Avon's principles are responsible and admirable. If you pay attention to the best of what they have to offer, you will not only be supporting Avon's mission to improve the lives of women but also gaining some wonderful products, making it a win-win situation.

The bad news is that unless you know what you want and order from Avon's Web site, dealing with an Avon representative tends to be a frustrating experience. Try as they might, most of them are mere order-takers. They cannot keep up with the product assortment, sales, and changes that occur between Avon's "campaigns." One of the representatives we dealt with was quite frank about how much she didn't know, and mentioned that they are not kept as up-to-date as they should be, not to mention the haphazard assortment of testers or samples available. On the flipside, Avon is a wonderful mail-order company should you need to return or exchange products. Unlike companies with a similar business model (Arbonne comes to mind), Avon makes the process smooth and hassle-free, with a "if you're not happy, we're not" motto that epitomizes outstanding customer service.

For more information about Avon, call (800) 500-AVON or visit www.avon.com.

Avon Makeup

If you've been noticing more magazine and television ads for Avon recently, it's no accident. According to an article in the November 21, 2005, issue of The Rose Sheet, Avon's ad spending through 2008 will reach "historical heights" due in part to the brand's flat performance the past couple of years. Avon's CEO Andrea Jung admitted that the company's makeup business has struggled due to increased competition, a point we wholeheartedly agree with. Avon may be viewed as a skin-care innovator, but when it comes to makeup they're more follow-the-leaders than trail blazers. Admittedly, their foundations, powders, blush, and lipsticks have smoother, more state-of-the-art textures than ever, but with few exceptions none of them are setting a precedent that other, more innovative companies are likely to follow.

You will find some outstanding Avon makeup products to consider, but perhaps due to the sheer size of the collection there are far too many mediocre products, especially among the eyeshadows, pencils, and mascaras. Given that Avon isn't as easy to obtain as comparable products at your local drug or department store, many of the makeup items end up being a tough sell. After all, who wants to go out of their way for average products? Turning to what Avon does really well, you'll find their loose and pressed powders have amazingly silky textures and natural finishes. Their blushes are wonderful, and a few of the lipsticks and foundations are definitely worth talking about with enthusiasm. Another positive point is that Avon regularly discounts their makeup, often upwards of 50% during any given campaign (Avon's campaigns run for two weeks and the specials change each time). If you shop at the right time, the best of Avon color can be yours for less than you'd pay for most low-cost drugstore makeup.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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