Anew Reversalist Night Sterling Emulsion (Discontinued)

by Avon  Anew Reversalist
Price:
$32 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > AHA Exfoliants > AHA
Last Updated:
6/23/2014
Jar Packaging:
Yes
pH:
3.80
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This product is similar to Avon's Anew Rejuvenate Night Sapphire Emulsion. This version makes no claims of erasing pores; instead, the claims are all about firming skin and reactivating its youthful structure. Given that this is basically an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliant, the claims aren't as farfetched as they come across because to some extent that is what any well-formulated AHA (usually glycolic acid or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant can do.

This product contains approximately 4–5% glycolic acid (AHA), and the pH of 3.8 allows it to function as an exfoliant (the efficacy of AHAs is pH dependent). That's great news and definitely conveys an anti-aging benefit, but this product also contains a great deal of wafting synthetic fragrance, which can cause irritation. Plus, it comes in jar packaging, which means the beneficial ingredients (antioxidants and peptides) won't remain stable once it is opened.

The product also contains glitter; yes, glitter. Shine and fragrance have nothing to do with good skin care, and as such this product looks better in its packaging than it does on your face!

Pros:
  • Contains a potentially helpful amount of the AHA glycolic acid, and is formulated at a pH to ensure efficacy.
  • Leaves skin feeling silky.
  • Has some state-of-the-art beneficial ingredients.
Cons:
  • Very strong fragrance that lingers (fragrance isn't skin care).
  • Jar packaging won't keep the antioxidants and peptides stable once the product is opened.
  • Leaves visible glitter particles on skin.

More Info:

Regarding the claims: Because this product contains a potentially helpful amount of the AHA glycolic acid and the pH allows it to function as an exfoliant, you may see firmer skin due to enhanced collagen production. AHAs also help your skin retain moisture and can improve an uneven skin tone. All of that is good news if anti-aging is your goal, but it's hardly unique to this formula, and, in fact, is true for any well-formulated AHA product.

Where things go astray is with the jar packaging and the potent fragrance. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

As for the fragrance: It's not skin care in the least, and it's so strong in this product it's like putting pure perfume on your face. Last, the glitter particles are silly; they may look cool in the packaging, but skin care doesn't need glitter to be effective.

Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Propylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Thiodipropionic Acid, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Amorphophallus Campanulatus Rhizome/Root Extract, Sesbania Grandiflora Flower Extract, Pueraria Lobata Symbiosome Extract, Saccharomyces/Calcium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Heptapeptide-6, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Phytol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Humulus Japonicus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Saccharomyces/Gold Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Benzophenone-4, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Ammonium Hydroxide, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ext. Violet 2

The last few years have been an interesting time for the world's largest direct seller. Avon is sold in 120 countries and has an enormous range of products that goes beyond skin care and makeup, all sold by five million Avon representatives racking up annual sales of over $8 billion (Source: www.avoncompany.com). Yet due to several quarters of lackluster or poor financial performance, the company announced a multiyear restructuring plan in 2006. The anticipated cost of these changes is upwards of $500 million, which includes downsizing underperforming areas and focusing on remarketing their star products. In recent years, those key products have had "cosmeceutical" appeal, with claims that have gone beyond reality (but overexaggerated claims sell big in the cosmetics industry).

The Anew Clinical line ushered in several products claiming to work like (or, in some instances, better than) cosmetic corrective procedures. Whether you are considering laser treatments, Botox, Thermage, collagen injections, or even liposuction, the ads for Anew Clinical were designed to make you rethink that decision.

It is definitely impressive that Avon invested $100 million on a state-of-the-art research and product development facility in New York, but despite some innovative products that compete with the best of the best (typically for much less money), no cosmetics company has (or will) produce skin-care products that rival or beat the results obtainable from medical procedures. It's admittedly easier to slather on a cream or stroke a pad over your face than to make an office call and shoulder the expense for a cosmetic corrective procedure, but in this case convenience and savings don't equal—or even come close to—comparable results. And lest we forget, despite the onslaught of so-called cosmeceutical products claiming to mimic the results such procedures provide, the number of these procedures being performed increases each year. If any of these works-like-(insert cosmetic corrective procedure here) products did work, the number of procedures would be declining, not rising.

The National Advertising Division (NAD) took issue with several claims Avon made in ads for their Anew Clinical products (Source: www.nadreview.org/default.asp?SessionID=1149178&DocType=1&CaseType=1). In some cases, Avon reworded their claims in ad reprints, while in others they "respectfully disagreed" with the NAD conclusions but agreed to take their comments into consideration for future ads. We'll see how this turns out, but, based on their current ads, the message remains that Anew Clinical products are at the forefront of making cosmetic corrective procedure results as easy as calling your Avon representative and reciting your credit card number.

As a major international cosmetics company, Avon has several initiatives in place that prove its commitment to women and the environment. Whether donating to women's health concerns (most notably breast cancer), surpassing environmental regulations, or financially supporting alternative methods to animal testing, Avon's principles are responsible and admirable. If you pay attention to the best of what they have to offer, you will not only be supporting Avon's mission to improve the lives of women but also gaining some wonderful products, making it a win-win situation.

The bad news is that unless you know what you want and order from Avon's Web site, dealing with an Avon representative tends to be a frustrating experience. Try as they might, most of them are mere order-takers. They cannot keep up with the product assortment, sales, and changes that occur between Avon's "campaigns." One of the representatives we dealt with was quite frank about how much she didn't know, and mentioned that they are not kept as up-to-date as they should be, not to mention the haphazard assortment of testers or samples available. On the flipside, Avon is a wonderful mail-order company should you need to return or exchange products. Unlike companies with a similar business model (Arbonne comes to mind), Avon makes the process smooth and hassle-free, with a "if you're not happy, we're not" motto that epitomizes outstanding customer service.

For more information about Avon, call (800) 500-AVON or visit www.avon.com.

Avon Makeup

If you've been noticing more magazine and television ads for Avon recently, it's no accident. According to an article in the November 21, 2005, issue of The Rose Sheet, Avon's ad spending through 2008 will reach "historical heights" due in part to the brand's flat performance the past couple of years. Avon's CEO Andrea Jung admitted that the company's makeup business has struggled due to increased competition, a point we wholeheartedly agree with. Avon may be viewed as a skin-care innovator, but when it comes to makeup they're more follow-the-leaders than trail blazers. Admittedly, their foundations, powders, blush, and lipsticks have smoother, more state-of-the-art textures than ever, but with few exceptions none of them are setting a precedent that other, more innovative companies are likely to follow.

You will find some outstanding Avon makeup products to consider, but perhaps due to the sheer size of the collection there are far too many mediocre products, especially among the eyeshadows, pencils, and mascaras. Given that Avon isn't as easy to obtain as comparable products at your local drug or department store, many of the makeup items end up being a tough sell. After all, who wants to go out of their way for average products? Turning to what Avon does really well, you'll find their loose and pressed powders have amazingly silky textures and natural finishes. Their blushes are wonderful, and a few of the lipsticks and foundations are definitely worth talking about with enthusiasm. Another positive point is that Avon regularly discounts their makeup, often upwards of 50% during any given campaign (Avon's campaigns run for two weeks and the specials change each time). If you shop at the right time, the best of Avon color can be yours for less than you'd pay for most low-cost drugstore makeup.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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