Atoderm PP Anti-Recurrence Emollient Balm

by Bioderma  
Price:
$27.95 - 200 ml
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Body Lotions/Creams/Balms/Butters
Last Updated:
10/18/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This fragrance-free body moisturizer has a somewhat thick, creamy texture that feels just a bit greasy, but it does contain some good ingredients to help repair and smooth dry skin. It contains a good mix of emollients, the cell-communicating ingredient niacinamide, but only one antioxidant in the form of vitamin E acetate. Nice, but nothing spectacular—there are better body moisturizers, although if you have sensitive skin this is a worthwhile option.

Note that the claims refer to "vitamin PP," which is another name for the B vitamin niacin (niacin is another name for niacinamide). Perhaps Bioderma thought labeling niacinamide vitamin PP would make it seem more exotic or unique, but that's not the case.

Pros:
  • Fragrance-free, gentle formula.
  • Replenishes dry skin.
  • Contains niacinamide and antioxidant vitamin E.
Cons:
  • Would be better with a broader range of skin-repairing ingredients.
  • The amount of water-binding agents appears to be less than what Bioderma includes in their other body moisturizers.
Thanks to a unique, innovative formula, Atoderm PP stimulates the natural cutaneous barrier repair process. Vitamin PP helps the skin cells to naturally produce the lipids (ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol) needed for effective cohesion of the intercellular cement.
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mannitol, Xylitol, Rhamnose, Fructooligosaccharides, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 80, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Triclosan.

Bioderma is a European brand based in France and sold in 70 countries around the world, which explains why we get so many requests to review the brand!

According to information on their website, the team at Bioderma has been collaborating with dermatologists and “renowned international research centers” for over 20 years, all to bring you products that are “the most frequently prescribed by French dermatologists.” Sounds impressive, but the proof is in the products, not the posturing!

Because Bioderma sells skin-care products, not pharmaceutical drug products, there’s no “prescribing” involved—anyone can easily obtain Bioderma products, in stores or online, no doctor visit needed. The fact that French dermatologists recommend these products isn’t proof of anything; lots of dermatologists around the world recommend products with problematic ingredients, sometimes because they simply don’t know any better or are just as susceptible to the hype as anyone else, and sometimes because they are paid by the company to promote their products.

The Bioderma range is huge, but also hugely repetitive. Few brands offer as many cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens as Bioderma, yet the onslaught creates a lot of confusion, and the differences between many of these formulas are subtle to indistinguishable. There are some good products, but overall the formulas are lackluster. When shopping this line, you really have to choose carefully and not get too hung up on the various names and claims because often virtually the same product formula comes with different benefits on the label, again and again. And again.

Many people with sensitive skin ask us about Bioderma, perhaps because the company frequently mentions that their products are hypoallergenic. That term—“hypoallergenic”— is misleading, as explained below.

There are no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere in the world, for determining whether or not a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic. So, any company can label any product “hypoallergenic” because there is no regulation that says they can’t, no matter what so-called evidence they may use to make their point—and what proof can they provide given there is no standard against which to measure?

Given that there are no regulations governing hypoallergenic products, we know there are plenty of products labeled “hypoallergenic” that actually contain problematic ingredients and that can indeed trigger allergic reactions, even for those with no previous history of skin sensitivity—and that’s certainly true for many Bioderma products. We wish that weren’t the case, but the word “hypoallergenic” gives you no reliable understanding of what you are or aren’t putting on your skin (Sources: www.fda.gov; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, May 2004, pages 325–327; and Ostomy and Wound Management, March 2003, pages 20–21).

That being said, we applaud Bioderma for avoiding the use of known sensitizing ingredients like peppermint, lavender, menthol, and all types of citrus, which unfortunately are rampant in the world of skin care. Many Bioderma products are also fragrance-free and in that sense are absolutely worth a look, whether sensitive skin is an issue or not. (Fragrance-free is best for all skin types.)

Despite the huge number of products, there are some surprising holes in the Bioderma line. For example, this isn’t a line to shop if you’re struggling with breakouts, there are no effective AHA or BHA exfoliants, the skin-lightening products have drawbacks that don’t make them worth considering over better options, and you won’t find advanced anti-aging formulations of any kind. You’re in luck if you want lots of choices in cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens, but as mentioned above, there’s a lot to wade through, and much of it is repetitive. We’re all for brands offering choices for different skin types, concerns, and textures (such as gel versus lotion), but Bioderma’s range simply isn’t as varied as it is large. A large mix of relatively wishy-washy formulations is really not a plus for your skin.

For more information about Bioderma, visit www.bioderma.com.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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