03.31.2015
2
0
Hydrabio Rich Cream
Rating
40 ml for $27.95
Last Updated:03.31.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

Hydrabio Rich Cream is a richer, thicker version of Bioderma's Hydrabio Light Cream. Other than the addition of mineral oil and some thickeners, which make it preferred for normal to dry skin, the same review applies.

This contains some of the core ingredients seen in Bioderma's Sensibio moisturizers, and most of those moisturizers offer your skin better formulas. Hydrabio Rich Cream does feel rich, but the amount of alcohol is a potential concern, and this contains more alcohol than it does such intriguing ingredients as niacinamide and novel water-binding agents that truly can improve the skin.

Bioderma claims this moisturizer is another "innovation" (according to Bioderma, pretty much everything they sell is innovative, but the ingredients tell a different story) because it can enhance "skin's cellular capabilities," allowing it to generate essential moisture.

Here's why that claim is off base: When skin is dry, it's unable to generate and, more often than not, unable to hold on to its own moisture or moisture in the environment. A good moisturizer steps in to help skin do what it cannot do on its own by restoring the skin's barrier and preventing moisture loss while improving the texture of the skin at the same time! The best moisturizers will improve skin's appearance and healthy functioning, but none of them, anywhere in the world, can train the skin to generate its own moisture from deep within.

If you stop using a good moisturizer and are prone to dry skin, your skin will go back to being dry—yet that wouldn't be the case if this worked to retrain skin to generate its own moisture. You'd simply use this cream for a while, and soon your skin would be able to moisturize itself from within—that's not going to happen.

A good moisturizer can improve dry skin and rebuild the skin's barrier so it functions better, but it cannot train the skin to stop being dry. Sadly, this fragranced product doesn't even qualify as a good moisturizer, mostly due to the amount of alcohol, which is actually dehydrating and irritating.

Pros:
  • Emollient, creamy texture feels good on dry skin.
Cons:
  • Contains more alcohol than intriguing, beneficial ingredients.
  • Cannot retrain skin to produce its own moisture from deep within.
Claims
A BIODERMA innovation, the patented Aquagenium® biological complex, re-trains the skin to generate in depth the hydration essential to its natural balance and to lock it in on its surface.
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), Tridecyl Trimellitate, Xylitol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Alcohol Denat., Glycol Palmitate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Corn Starch Modified, Polyethylene, Sodium Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, PEG-100 Stearate, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Anhydroxylitol, Rhamnose, Mannitol, Fructooligosaccharides, Dimethicone, Arachidyl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Hexyldecanol, Titanium Dioxide, Xanthan Gum, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Fragrance.
Brand Overview

Strengths: Bioderma provides complete product ingredient lists on their site; some very good, fragrance-free facial cleansers; every sunscreen provides sufficient broad-spectrum protection, and most are fragrance-free; a few good mattifying products for oily skin; great prices.

Weaknesses: The endless array of moisturizers are ordinary; the claims don’t match what the formulas can actually do; repetitive sunscreen formulas; many of the sunscreens contain a potentially problematic amount of denatured alcohol; disappointing lightening products lacking ingredients that can lighten brown spots; the bronzing SPF products encourage tanning.

Bioderma is a European brand based in France and sold in 70 countries around the world, which explains why we get so many requests to review the brand!

According to information on their website, the team at Bioderma has been collaborating with dermatologists and “renowned international research centers” for over 20 years, all to bring you products that are “the most frequently prescribed by French dermatologists.” Sounds impressive, but the proof is in the products, not the posturing!

Because Bioderma sells skin-care products, not pharmaceutical drug products, there’s no “prescribing” involved—anyone can easily obtain Bioderma products, in stores or online, no doctor visit needed. The fact that French dermatologists recommend these products isn’t proof of anything; lots of dermatologists around the world recommend products with problematic ingredients, sometimes because they simply don’t know any better or are just as susceptible to the hype as anyone else, and sometimes because they are paid by the company to promote their products.

The Bioderma range is huge, but also hugely repetitive. Few brands offer as many cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens as Bioderma, yet the onslaught creates a lot of confusion, and the differences between many of these formulas are subtle to indistinguishable. There are some good products, but overall the formulas are lackluster. When shopping this line, you really have to choose carefully and not get too hung up on the various names and claims because often virtually the same product formula comes with different benefits on the label, again and again. And again.

Many people with sensitive skin ask us about Bioderma, perhaps because the company frequently mentions that their products are hypoallergenic. That term—“hypoallergenic”— is misleading, as explained below.

There are no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere in the world, for determining whether or not a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic. So, any company can label any product “hypoallergenic” because there is no regulation that says they can’t, no matter what so-called evidence they may use to make their point—and what proof can they provide given there is no standard against which to measure?

Given that there are no regulations governing hypoallergenic products, we know there are plenty of products labeled “hypoallergenic” that actually contain problematic ingredients and that can indeed trigger allergic reactions, even for those with no previous history of skin sensitivity—and that’s certainly true for many Bioderma products. We wish that weren’t the case, but the word “hypoallergenic” gives you no reliable understanding of what you are or aren’t putting on your skin (Sources: www.fda.gov; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, May 2004, pages 325–327; and Ostomy and Wound Management, March 2003, pages 20–21).

That being said, we applaud Bioderma for avoiding the use of known sensitizing ingredients like peppermint, lavender, menthol, and all types of citrus, which unfortunately are rampant in the world of skin care. Many Bioderma products are also fragrance-free and in that sense are absolutely worth a look, whether sensitive skin is an issue or not. (Fragrance-free is best for all skin types.)

Despite the huge number of products, there are some surprising holes in the Bioderma line. For example, this isn’t a line to shop if you’re struggling with breakouts, there are no effective AHA or BHA exfoliants, the skin-lightening products have drawbacks that don’t make them worth considering over better options, and you won’t find advanced anti-aging formulations of any kind. You’re in luck if you want lots of choices in cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens, but as mentioned above, there’s a lot to wade through, and much of it is repetitive. We’re all for brands offering choices for different skin types, concerns, and textures (such as gel versus lotion), but Bioderma’s range simply isn’t as varied as it is large. A large mix of relatively wishy-washy formulations is really not a plus for your skin.

For more information about Bioderma, visit www.bioderma.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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05.16.2015
Make information about out of date formula more prominent

It would be useful to make information such as "review based on old formula - alcohol has been removed - review no longer applicable" sort of thing further up the page. I didn't see this information, lying here at the bottom of the page, till I checked the ingredients on my package myself and came here to tell you about it and ask why your review has different ingredients to the product in front of me!

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Anonymous
01.14.2015
Alcohol has been removered

I loved the old formula of this and the light cream in the warmer months. I found nothing could take away my dry flakey skin except this stuff. Even after a few days when I would run out my skin would be ok. Other moisturizer I tried felt like as soon as you washed you face it was back to square one with the dryness. I stopped using it because of the parabens and alcohol in the old formula. Now that it's been reformulated could you please do a reassessment of the product. Thank you!

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Reviewed by
Chloe D
01.19.2015
Beautypedia Team Response

Hello, and thanks for letting us know about the formula change - we'll take a look at this one and adjust our review as needed!
 

—Paula's Choice Research Team
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