03.19.2015
0
3
Sebium AKN
Rating
30 ml for $22.95
Last Updated:03.19.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

Although this oil-absorbing product contains the exfoliating ingredient salicylic acid, the amount is too low and the product's pH is too high for it to exfoliate skin. That's a shame because a well-formulated BHA exfoliant can really make a difference for those with clogged, enlarged pores and oily skin.

Otherwise, there's little reason to consider this product, although it does leave a soft matte finish that helps keep excess shine in check (for a couple hours, anyway), but that's a cosmetic benefit, not a skin-care benefit.

What Sebium AKN cannot do is preserve sebum (oil) quality in an effort to reduce "the development of imperfections," which we assume to mean breakouts. Whether you break out or not has nothing to do with the quality of the oil, it's mostly about the quantity, as well as a few other factors. When too much oil is produced, if circumstances are right, it can mix with dead skin cells, bacteria, and other debris in the pore lining, clogging the pore and leading to the formation of a blemish (think blackheads and white bumps).

At best, this is a lightweight moisturizer that won't make acne-prone skin worse. It's best for normal to oily or combination skin.

Pros:
  • Leaves a soft matte finish that helps keep excess shine in check.
  • Provides light hydration without a trace of greasiness.
Cons:
  • Contains salicylic acid, but in an amount that's too low (and in a formula with a pH that's too high) for it to function as an exfoliant.
  • Cannot control "the development of imperfections."
Claims

Thanks to its patented exclusive Fluidactiv® complex, Sébium AKN preserves sebum quality, preventing deterioration and thickening, thus effectively reducing the appearance and development of imperfections.

Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Dipropylene Glycol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Glycerin, PTFE, Salicylic Acid, Xylitol, Zinc Gluconate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Mannitol, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Rhamnose, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Sodium Hydroxide, Arachidyl Glucoside, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol, Laureth-7, Dodecyl Gallate, Fragrance.

Brand Overview

Strengths: Bioderma provides complete product ingredient lists on their site; some very good, fragrance-free facial cleansers; every sunscreen provides sufficient broad-spectrum protection, and most are fragrance-free; a few good mattifying products for oily skin; great prices.

Weaknesses: The endless array of moisturizers are ordinary; the claims don’t match what the formulas can actually do; repetitive sunscreen formulas; many of the sunscreens contain a potentially problematic amount of denatured alcohol; disappointing lightening products lacking ingredients that can lighten brown spots; the bronzing SPF products encourage tanning.

Bioderma is a European brand based in France and sold in 70 countries around the world, which explains why we get so many requests to review the brand!

According to information on their website, the team at Bioderma has been collaborating with dermatologists and “renowned international research centers” for over 20 years, all to bring you products that are “the most frequently prescribed by French dermatologists.” Sounds impressive, but the proof is in the products, not the posturing!

Because Bioderma sells skin-care products, not pharmaceutical drug products, there’s no “prescribing” involved—anyone can easily obtain Bioderma products, in stores or online, no doctor visit needed. The fact that French dermatologists recommend these products isn’t proof of anything; lots of dermatologists around the world recommend products with problematic ingredients, sometimes because they simply don’t know any better or are just as susceptible to the hype as anyone else, and sometimes because they are paid by the company to promote their products.

The Bioderma range is huge, but also hugely repetitive. Few brands offer as many cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens as Bioderma, yet the onslaught creates a lot of confusion, and the differences between many of these formulas are subtle to indistinguishable. There are some good products, but overall the formulas are lackluster. When shopping this line, you really have to choose carefully and not get too hung up on the various names and claims because often virtually the same product formula comes with different benefits on the label, again and again. And again.

Many people with sensitive skin ask us about Bioderma, perhaps because the company frequently mentions that their products are hypoallergenic. That term—“hypoallergenic”— is misleading, as explained below.

There are no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere in the world, for determining whether or not a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic. So, any company can label any product “hypoallergenic” because there is no regulation that says they can’t, no matter what so-called evidence they may use to make their point—and what proof can they provide given there is no standard against which to measure?

Given that there are no regulations governing hypoallergenic products, we know there are plenty of products labeled “hypoallergenic” that actually contain problematic ingredients and that can indeed trigger allergic reactions, even for those with no previous history of skin sensitivity—and that’s certainly true for many Bioderma products. We wish that weren’t the case, but the word “hypoallergenic” gives you no reliable understanding of what you are or aren’t putting on your skin (Sources: www.fda.gov; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, May 2004, pages 325–327; and Ostomy and Wound Management, March 2003, pages 20–21).

That being said, we applaud Bioderma for avoiding the use of known sensitizing ingredients like peppermint, lavender, menthol, and all types of citrus, which unfortunately are rampant in the world of skin care. Many Bioderma products are also fragrance-free and in that sense are absolutely worth a look, whether sensitive skin is an issue or not. (Fragrance-free is best for all skin types.)

Despite the huge number of products, there are some surprising holes in the Bioderma line. For example, this isn’t a line to shop if you’re struggling with breakouts, there are no effective AHA or BHA exfoliants, the skin-lightening products have drawbacks that don’t make them worth considering over better options, and you won’t find advanced anti-aging formulations of any kind. You’re in luck if you want lots of choices in cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens, but as mentioned above, there’s a lot to wade through, and much of it is repetitive. We’re all for brands offering choices for different skin types, concerns, and textures (such as gel versus lotion), but Bioderma’s range simply isn’t as varied as it is large. A large mix of relatively wishy-washy formulations is really not a plus for your skin.

For more information about Bioderma, visit www.bioderma.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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