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This ultra-rich moisturizer for dry to very dry skin has a lot going for it, including some very good non-fragrant plant oils that are a rich source of nourishing fatty acids for skin. Unfortunately, the good is overshadowed by the bad, and we’ll start with the jar packaging. The fact that this moisturizer is packaged in a jar means the beneficial plant ingredients won’t remain stable once you’ve opened this (see More Info for details).
This also contain fragrant plant oils, including lavender oil, which is known to be problematic for everyone’s skin (though spa-based lines like Bioelements love to add it to their products because it’s so aromatic). Joining lavender oil are fragrant citrus oils, including grapefruit oil, which is known to cause a phototoxic reaction when skin is exposed to sunlight (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). This can be an invitation for more brown spots, which most of us are trying to reduce!
Last, the formula contains a preservative (methylisothiazolinone) that is contraindicated for use in leave-on products due to its sensitizing potential (Source: Contact Dermatitis, November 2011, pages 276–285).
- Rich, emollient formula suitable for the needs of very dry skin.
- Contains some beneficial non-fragrant plant oils.
- Jar packaging won’t keep key ingredients stable during use.
- Several fragrant oils pose a strong risk of irritation that hurts skin’s ability to repair itself and act younger.
- Contains a preservative known to be sensitizing when used in leave-on products.
This moisturizer’s jar packaging means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
Research indicates that components of lavender, specifically linalool, can be cytotoxic, which means that topical application causes skin-cell death (Source: Cell Proliferation, June 2004, pages 221–229). Lavender leaves contain camphor, which is a known skin irritant. Because the fragrance constituents in lavender oil oxidize when exposed to air, lavender oil is a pro-oxidant, and this enhanced oxidation increases its irritancy on skin (Source: Contact Dermatitis, September 2008, pages 143–150). Lavender oil is the most potent form, and even small amounts of it (0.25% or less) are problematic. It is a must to avoid in skin-care products, although it’s fine as an aromatherapy agent for inhalation or relaxation (Sources: Psychiatry Research, February 2007, pages 89–96; and www.naturaldatabase.com).
Extremely rich yet non-greasy creme that corrects dryness by saturating skin with a complex of natural emollients that trap moisture into surface layers.
Water, Jojoba Esters, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Stearic Acid, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Methylisothiazolinone
Bioelements is a spa-and-salon sold skin-care line that was founded in 1991 by makeup artist turned aesthetician, Barbara Salomone. An interview with Salomone in the January/February 2006 issue of Renew magazine had statements from her indicating that aestheticians will soon be recognized as true skin-care professionals and her advice to newcomers is to get as much education as you can. To that end, Bioelements has seven education centers across the United States. However, if they're teaching established and upcoming aestheticians about Bioelements products, we are worried. Few spa lines subject skin to the irritating ingredients dispersed through well over half of the products this line offers. If that isn't bad enough, Bioelements ignores some fundamental aspects of skin care. That means no well-formulated AHA or BHA products (it's not a good formula if it subjects skin to needless irritation), and sunscreens rated below the standard SPF 15 recommendation (sun protection products are vastly outnumbered in this line by moisturizers and serums), not to mention the need to keep light- and air-sensitive ingredients, such as retinol, stable.
Company literature states that at Bioelements "We mean what we say. No gimmicks, no hype, and no false promises. We're professional skin care experts dedicated to keeping skin clean, clear, calm, and younger-looking." That sounds great but barely a word of it is true. This line definitely has its share of hype and false promises, from claiming that probiotics are a youth elixir, to regular references to what the line refers to as "Bioelements Adaptogens" and aromatherapist oils.
It's those very oils that causes havoc for skin, though in a spa experience their aroma can be pleasant. Skin-care experts would know better than to use any of Bioelements' numerous problem products, especially since, with so many irritants in most of the products, clear, calm skin is far from becoming a reality. Any company can establish its own education center, but what's key is the type of education provided and how the information is discussed. We have received countless letters from disheartened aestheticians bemoaning the "education" and classes they sit through, only to be spoon-fed information about skin-care products and practices they know are unhelpful and untrue. They ask me where to turn because they have a sincere interest in helping people take the best possible care of their skin, and are conscientious about the products they recommend. I hope this book helps such aestheticians, because Bioelements and many other spa-oriented lines are not creating products that epitomize state-of-the-art skin care, though they'd love for you to believe otherwise.
For more information about Bioelements, call 800.433.6650 or visit www.bioelements.com.