This ultra-rich moisturizer for dry to very dry skin has a lot going for it, including some very good non-fragrant plant oils that are a rich source of nourishing fatty acids for skin. Unfortunately, the good is overshadowed by the bad, and we’ll start with the jar packaging. The fact that this moisturizer is packaged in a jar means the beneficial plant ingredients won’t remain stable once you’ve opened this (see More Info for details).
This also contain fragrant plant oils, including lavender oil, which is known to be problematic for everyone’s skin (though spa-based lines like Bioelements love to add it to their products because it’s so aromatic). Joining lavender oil are fragrant citrus oils, including grapefruit oil, which is known to cause a phototoxic reaction when skin is exposed to sunlight (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). This can be an invitation for more brown spots, which most of us are trying to reduce!
Last, the formula contains a preservative (methylisothiazolinone) that is contraindicated for use in leave-on products due to its sensitizing potential (Source: Contact Dermatitis, November 2011, pages 276–285).
- Rich, emollient formula suitable for the needs of very dry skin.
- Contains some beneficial non-fragrant plant oils.
- Jar packaging won’t keep key ingredients stable during use.
- Several fragrant oils pose a strong risk of irritation that hurts skin’s ability to repair itself and act younger.
- Contains a preservative known to be sensitizing when used in leave-on products.
This moisturizer’s jar packaging means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
Research indicates that components of lavender, specifically linalool, can be cytotoxic, which means that topical application causes skin-cell death (Source: Cell Proliferation, June 2004, pages 221–229). Lavender leaves contain camphor, which is a known skin irritant. Because the fragrance constituents in lavender oil oxidize when exposed to air, lavender oil is a pro-oxidant, and this enhanced oxidation increases its irritancy on skin (Source: Contact Dermatitis, September 2008, pages 143–150). Lavender oil is the most potent form, and even small amounts of it (0.25% or less) are problematic. It is a must to avoid in skin-care products, although it’s fine as an aromatherapy agent for inhalation or relaxation (Sources: Psychiatry Research, February 2007, pages 89–96; and www.naturaldatabase.com).