Ultra-Rich Creme Therapy

Price:
$35 - 2.5 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Facial Masks > Moisturizing/Firming Masks
Last Updated:
2/26/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
No

This moisturizing mask has a lush texture that could bring immediate relief to dry, parched skin, but the longer you leave it on, the more your skin could be at risk of irritation (and collagen breakdown) from the many fragrant oils this contains. Peppermint, rosemary, sage, and thyme work much better for cooking than they do when applied to skin because each contains volatile fragrance ingredients that serve as a source of irritation (see More Info for details).

Adding to this product’s ultra-bad formulation is its jar packaging, which will diminish the effectiveness and stability of the good ingredients in this mask (refer to More Info to find out why). So, in the end, this is a mask you can leave at the spa. (And make sure the spa technician doesn’t apply it to you when you’re getting a facial!)

Pros:

  • Contains some good emollients to help restore and replenish dry skin.

Cons:

  • A mix of potent fragrant oils serves as a source of skin irritation, not benefits.
  • Jar packaging won’t keep key ingredients stable during use.

More Info:

Irritation, including from fragrant oils, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

The fact that this mask is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

 An emollient-rich professional mask you can use at home as a quick-fix for dry skin.

Water, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Panax Ginseng (Ginseng) Root Extract, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis (Dong Quai) Root Extract, Nasturtium Officinale (Watercress) Extract, Rhus Glabra (Sumac) Extract, Butylene Glycol, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Oil, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil, Thymus Zigis (Thyme) Oil, Dimethicone, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Beta Carotene, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Magnesium Alumina Silicate, Tetrasodium Dicarboxymethylgutamate

Bioelements is a spa-and-salon sold skin-care line that was founded in 1991 by makeup artist turned aesthetician, Barbara Salomone. An interview with Salomone in the January/February 2006 issue of Renew magazine had statements from her indicating that aestheticians will soon be recognized as true skin-care professionals and her advice to newcomers is to get as much education as you can. To that end, Bioelements has seven education centers across the United States. However, if they're teaching established and upcoming aestheticians about Bioelements products, we are worried. Few spa lines subject skin to the irritating ingredients dispersed through well over half of the products this line offers. If that isn't bad enough, Bioelements ignores some fundamental aspects of skin care. That means no well-formulated AHA or BHA products (it's not a good formula if it subjects skin to needless irritation), and sunscreens rated below the standard SPF 15 recommendation (sun protection products are vastly outnumbered in this line by moisturizers and serums), not to mention the need to keep light- and air-sensitive ingredients, such as retinol, stable.

Company literature states that at Bioelements "We mean what we say. No gimmicks, no hype, and no false promises. We're professional skin care experts dedicated to keeping skin clean, clear, calm, and younger-looking." That sounds great but barely a word of it is true. This line definitely has its share of hype and false promises, from claiming that probiotics are a youth elixir, to regular references to what the line refers to as "Bioelements Adaptogens" and aromatherapist oils.

It's those very oils that causes havoc for skin, though in a spa experience their aroma can be pleasant. Skin-care experts would know better than to use any of Bioelements' numerous problem products, especially since, with so many irritants in most of the products, clear, calm skin is far from becoming a reality. Any company can establish its own education center, but what's key is the type of education provided and how the information is discussed. We have received countless letters from disheartened aestheticians bemoaning the "education" and classes they sit through, only to be spoon-fed information about skin-care products and practices they know are unhelpful and untrue. They ask me where to turn because they have a sincere interest in helping people take the best possible care of their skin, and are conscientious about the products they recommend. I hope this book helps such aestheticians, because Bioelements and many other spa-oriented lines are not creating products that epitomize state-of-the-art skin care, though they'd love for you to believe otherwise.

For more information about Bioelements, call 800.433.6650 or visit www.bioelements.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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