04.06.2015
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Aquasource 24h Deep Hydration Replenishing Cream, Dry Skin
Rating
50 ml for $45
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:04.06.2015
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

This silky moisturizer contains some helpful ingredients for dry skin, but it also contains a potentially problematic amount of alcohol, which causes free-radical damage. Also, like many Biotherm moisturizers, it is heavily fragranced. Neither alcohol nor fragrance are good for anyone’s skin; see More Info to find out why.

In terms of this providing “deep hydration,” it won’t go any deeper than lots of other moisturizers, including many that treat dry skin to a better range of ingredients proven to make a positive difference. Another significant drawback is that the good ingredients this does contain won’t remain stable and effective because this moisturizer is packaged in a jar. See More Info to learn why jar packaging is a problem.

One more point, Biotherm’s claims and advertised ingredients would lead you to believe their products are all about natural formulations, and that is absolutely not the case. These products are steeped in synthetics, some that are great for skin, but also some that are definitely problematic.

Pros:
  • Silky texture slips easily over skin and makes it feel smoother.
Cons:
  • Expensive.
  • Jar packaging won’t keep the antioxidants stable during use.
  • Overly fragrant formula also contains several fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation.

More Info:

Alcohol in Skin-Care Products
Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin’s ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: “Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In,”Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).

Irritation From Fragrance and Fragrant Oils
Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin’s ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Why Jar Packaging is a Problem
The fact that this moisturizer is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

Claims

For skin that is dehydrated, taut and lacks radiance: Biotherm recreates Aquasource, its first replenishing cream for a rich, long-lasting and deep hydration. Suitable for sensitive skin.

Ingredients

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Alcohol Denat., Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide, Stearyl Alcohol, Mannose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Linoleate, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerol Oleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer Serine, 2-Oleamido1, 3-Octadecanediol, Magnesium Gluconate, Citrulline, Cholesterol, Limonene, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Linoleate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Menthoxypropanediol, Linalool, Ceramide-3, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Citral, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Benzyl Alcohol, Yellow 4, Geraniol, Red 4, Fragrance

Brand Overview

Biotherm At-A-Glance

Strengths: Sunscreens now include the right UVA-protecting ingredients; some good cleansers and makeup removers.

Weaknesses: Redundancy, especially within the moisturizer category where there are far too many products whose differences are more tied to name and claims than formula; overuse of alcohol in the moisturizers (the drying kind, not benign fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl); jar packaging; bland toners; ineffective AHA/BHA, and skin-lightening products; overly fragrant products make this brand a poor choice for those with rosacea or sensitive skin.

Biotherm is one of the many companies owned by L'Oreal USA, and has a vast array of products, with many redundancies. It was founded in 1952 by a French biologist who discovered, as the story goes, a mineral-rich element in mountain spring water. Flash-forward to a slick lab where white-coated scientists supposedly figured out a way to capture this element (called vitreoscilla ferment) in its active form, and that's essentially the story behind Biotherm, now sold in 70 countries. The company announced in 2007 that Biotherm would not be sold in any U.S. or Canadian department stores anymore yet would be sold online. But as of 2009, it seems the company changed plans, at least in terms of its Canadian distribution. The brand is sold in most Canadian department stores as well as Shoppers Drug Mart.

Biotherm's claims are wrapped around the effect their special ingredient (vitreoscilla ferment) has on skin, and how it helps skin reactivate its own natural biological processes. We weren't even partway through reviewing these products before noticing the products are far from unique or specially formulated. A major reason for that is the inclusion of problematic ingredients in many products, notably alcohol, lots of fragrance, and menthol derivatives.

But is there anything to Biotherm's fervent belief in and pervasive use of vitreoscilla ferment? This gram-negative bacteria can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro (Source: Journal of Biotechnology, January 2001, pages 57–66). But whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown, and there are no studies supporting the use of this ingredient for skin care. Therefore, you're left to take Biotherm's word for it, even though they don't bother to explain why they avoided so many well-researched antioxidants, or use minuscule amounts of intriguing ingredients that in greater amounts can positively affect skin's structure and healthy functioning. Plus you have to wonder, if this is such a great ingredient for skin, why don't the other L'Oreal companies such as Lancome, Kiehl's, La Roche-Posay, or even L'Oreal use it?

Biotherm is also big on minerals, specifically the gluconate forms of magnesium, copper, and zinc. All of these have some research indicating their merit for skin, but mostly in terms of wound healing or being mildly antibacterial. That's not the way they're showcased in Biotherm's products, of course, because anti-wrinkle and anti-aging claims are what sell products. Although they link minerals with anti-aging prowess, a wrinkle is not a wound. Moreover, the tiny amounts of these minerals found throughout the Biotherm lineup only nullifies their already limited effectiveness as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine. There are some gems to be found in this line, but proceed with caution because most of it is downright boring or just plain bad for your skin.

Note: Biotherm is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Biotherm does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law." Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

For more information about Biotherm, call (888) BIOTHERM or visit www.biotherm-usa.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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02.25.2014
I find this cream as the best for my skin: it hydrates my skin for whole day, leaves it radiant brin

The best ever!!

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irina
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