You can forget about the “thermal plankton cellular water” having benefit for dry skin because this toner contains enough alcohol to put skin at risk of dryness and irritation that hurt its ability to look and act younger. Even without the alcohol, this toner is a boring formula that contains too much fragrance and not nearly enough of the kind of ingredients dry skin needs to be hydrated and healthier. It’s not that this toner lacks good ingredients, it’s just that there are too many problematic ingredients to make it worth using—and the good ingredients could’ve been replaced by even better ingredients, which is what you should expect considering this toner’s price! Whatever Biotherm’s “new technology” entails, this toner isn’t keeping pace with what current research shows dry skin needs.
- Formula contains a potentially irritating amount of alcohol.
- Contains fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation.
- Incapable of improving dry skin, but the irritation it causes can make combination skin worse because it can cause dryness on the surface and stimulate more oil production at the base of the pores.
Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin’s ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: “Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In,”Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).
For Dry skin. NEW TECHNOLOGY.
Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin Phenoxyehtanol, Carbomer, Sodium Citrate, PEG-192 Apricot Kernel Glycerides, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Magnesium Gluconate, Mannose, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Serine Citrulline, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldeyde, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Parfum
Biotherm is one of the many companies owned by L'Oreal USA, and has a vast array of products, with many redundancies. It was founded in 1952 by a French biologist who discovered, as the story goes, a mineral-rich element in mountain spring water. Flash-forward to a slick lab where white-coated scientists supposedly figured out a way to capture this element (called vitreoscilla ferment) in its active form, and that's essentially the story behind Biotherm, now sold in 70 countries. The company announced in 2007 that Biotherm would not be sold in any U.S. or Canadian department stores anymore yet would be sold online. But as of 2009, it seems the company changed plans, at least in terms of its Canadian distribution. The brand is sold in most Canadian department stores as well as Shoppers Drug Mart.
Biotherm's claims are wrapped around the effect their special ingredient (vitreoscilla ferment) has on skin, and how it helps skin reactivate its own natural biological processes. We weren't even partway through reviewing these products before noticing the products are far from unique or specially formulated. A major reason for that is the inclusion of problematic ingredients in many products, notably alcohol, lots of fragrance, and menthol derivatives.
But is there anything to Biotherm's fervent belief in and pervasive use of vitreoscilla ferment? This gram-negative bacteria can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro (Source: Journal of Biotechnology, January 2001, pages 57–66). But whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown, and there are no studies supporting the use of this ingredient for skin care. Therefore, you're left to take Biotherm's word for it, even though they don't bother to explain why they avoided so many well-researched antioxidants, or use minuscule amounts of intriguing ingredients that in greater amounts can positively affect skin's structure and healthy functioning. Plus you have to wonder, if this is such a great ingredient for skin, why don't the other L'Oreal companies such as Lancome, Kiehl's, La Roche-Posay, or even L'Oreal use it?
Biotherm is also big on minerals, specifically the gluconate forms of magnesium, copper, and zinc. All of these have some research indicating their merit for skin, but mostly in terms of wound healing or being mildly antibacterial. That's not the way they're showcased in Biotherm's products, of course, because anti-wrinkle and anti-aging claims are what sell products. Although they link minerals with anti-aging prowess, a wrinkle is not a wound. Moreover, the tiny amounts of these minerals found throughout the Biotherm lineup only nullifies their already limited effectiveness as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine. There are some gems to be found in this line, but proceed with caution because most of it is downright boring or just plain bad for your skin.
Note: Biotherm is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Biotherm does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law." Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.
For more information about Biotherm, call (888) BIOTHERM or visit www.biotherm-usa.com.