This expensive moisturizer has anti-aging aspirations that its formula cannot deliver, mostly because it’s dated and because it contains the irritating menthol derivative menthoxypropanediol. Irritants like this keep products from being anti-aging, and for those with oily skin the irritation can stimulate more oil production at the base of the pores. See More Info for further details on why irritation is a problem for all skin types.
Although this formula contains a small amount of antioxidants, they will not remain stable once this product is opened, all thanks to jar packaging. See More Info for details on why jar packaging for products like this is a bad idea.
In short, this formula is incapable of repairing skin from environmental aggressors that “accelerate the aging process.” At best, this meets the basic needs of normal to dry skin, but does so with an overly fragranced formula that can cause further problems.
Note: Although this contains a potentially helpful amount of salicylic acid, the pH of this moisturizer is not within range for it to function as an exfoliant.
One more point, Biotherm’s claims and advertised ingredients would lead you to believe their products are all about natural formulations, and that is absolutely not the case. These products are steeped in synthetics, some that are great for skin, but also some that are definitely problematic.
- Contains a few good ingredients for dry skin.
- Expensive for an overall dated formula.
- Jar packaging hinders the effectiveness and stability of the antioxidants.
- Contains fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation.
- Contains the irritating menthol derivative menthoxypropanediol.
- Product’s pH is too high for the salicylic acid to function as an exfoliant.
Why Irritating Ingredients Are a Problem for Everyone’s Skin
Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22.)
The fact that it’s packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).