The claims for this fragrance-free eye gel go on and on about reversing aging and rejuvenating skin through the vital impulse of your genes, all supposedly backed up by “in vivo science” and patents. If that’s really the case, we couldn’t find the research Biotherm did to prove their assertions, and they weren’t willing to share it with us. What’s certain is that the formula is far from extraordinary, and you don’t need a special product for the eye area anyway (see More Info to learn why).
As for patents: A patent has nothing to do with efficacy. A patent is obtained without any proof that what you’re patenting actually works. The “patented” claim always sounds impressive to unsuspecting consumers, which is why lots of companies use it, but it isn’t proof of anything except acknowledgment that you have laid claim to the use of an ingredient or ingredients for a specific purpose.
This eye-area gel has a silky texture that’s slightly spackle-like, so it can, to a minor extent, temporarily fill in superficial lines around the eye. How long the effect lasts depends on how expressive you are and what products you apply over it, but no one is going to mistake you for being even 1 year, let alone 10 years, younger simply because you applied this product around your eyes. It contains a tiny amount of emollient shea butter and the mineral pigment mica for shine, but shine isn’t skin care—and it’s far removed from Biotherm’s talk of “gene’s vital impulses”!
Speaking of genes: Our skin has plenty of them working in a carefully orchestrated manner to handle the formation, movement, and shedding of skin cells. As skin becomes damaged (mostly due to sun exposure) gene function can become faulty and eventually cause the process to malfunction, in turn causing a host of problems, from deep wrinkles to leathery texture. Using products with ingredients that protect skin and help repair some of the damage should allow these genes to begin functioning in a normal, healthier manner—but products like this aren’t the answer because they don’t contain the types of ingredients all skin types need to look and act younger.
- Silky, slight spackle-like texture helps temporarily fill in superficial lines.
- Despite a silky texture, the formula lacks proven anti-aging ingredients.
- Claims are not supported by published research and, of course, no skin-care product can “deactivate” aging.
We know it’s hard to believe, but the truth is you don’t need a special product for the eye area, whether labeled eye cream or something else. Although there is much you can do to improve the skin around your eyes, the ingredients capable of doing that don’t need to come from, and often aren’t even included in, an eye cream. For example, most eye creams (such as this one) don’t contain sunscreen, and that is a serious problem because it leaves the skin around your eyes vulnerable to sun damage, which will make dark circles and wrinkling worse!
You can save money and take superior care of your eye area by using your face product, if it is well formulated and appropriate for the skin type around your eyes!
Rejuvenate your skin through your genes’ vital impulse. 10 years of youth gained for your skin in 4 weeks. Biotherm creates SKIN VIVO, the 1st reversive anti-aging care - 8 patents - that “deactivates” aging and visibly rejuvenates the skin. Proven in vivo by science.
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PTFE, Shea Butter, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Triethanolamine, Hydroxyproline, PVP, Carbomer, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Sodium Benzoate, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethiconol, Aluminum Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Laureth-7, Silica, Vitreoscilla Ferment Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, C12-13 Pareth-23, C12-13 Pareth-3
Biotherm is one of the many companies owned by L'Oreal USA, and has a vast array of products, with many redundancies. It was founded in 1952 by a French biologist who discovered, as the story goes, a mineral-rich element in mountain spring water. Flash-forward to a slick lab where white-coated scientists supposedly figured out a way to capture this element (called vitreoscilla ferment) in its active form, and that's essentially the story behind Biotherm, now sold in 70 countries. The company announced in 2007 that Biotherm would not be sold in any U.S. or Canadian department stores anymore yet would be sold online. But as of 2009, it seems the company changed plans, at least in terms of its Canadian distribution. The brand is sold in most Canadian department stores as well as Shoppers Drug Mart.
Biotherm's claims are wrapped around the effect their special ingredient (vitreoscilla ferment) has on skin, and how it helps skin reactivate its own natural biological processes. We weren't even partway through reviewing these products before noticing the products are far from unique or specially formulated. A major reason for that is the inclusion of problematic ingredients in many products, notably alcohol, lots of fragrance, and menthol derivatives.
But is there anything to Biotherm's fervent belief in and pervasive use of vitreoscilla ferment? This gram-negative bacteria can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro (Source: Journal of Biotechnology, January 2001, pages 57–66). But whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown, and there are no studies supporting the use of this ingredient for skin care. Therefore, you're left to take Biotherm's word for it, even though they don't bother to explain why they avoided so many well-researched antioxidants, or use minuscule amounts of intriguing ingredients that in greater amounts can positively affect skin's structure and healthy functioning. Plus you have to wonder, if this is such a great ingredient for skin, why don't the other L'Oreal companies such as Lancome, Kiehl's, La Roche-Posay, or even L'Oreal use it?
Biotherm is also big on minerals, specifically the gluconate forms of magnesium, copper, and zinc. All of these have some research indicating their merit for skin, but mostly in terms of wound healing or being mildly antibacterial. That's not the way they're showcased in Biotherm's products, of course, because anti-wrinkle and anti-aging claims are what sell products. Although they link minerals with anti-aging prowess, a wrinkle is not a wound. Moreover, the tiny amounts of these minerals found throughout the Biotherm lineup only nullifies their already limited effectiveness as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine. There are some gems to be found in this line, but proceed with caution because most of it is downright boring or just plain bad for your skin.
Note: Biotherm is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Biotherm does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law." Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.
For more information about Biotherm, call (888) BIOTHERM or visit www.biotherm-usa.com.