Skin.Ergetic Overnight High Recovery Moisturizer with Tea & Seed Fractions

by Biotherm (Canada)  Skin.Ergetic
Price:
$51 - 50 ml
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
2/18/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This emollient moisturizer contains fractions (extracts) of fruits and vegetables that function as antioxidants, but the poor choice of jar packaging means they won’t remain stable for long, so your skin cannot reap their benefits. See More Info to find out why jar packaging for products like this is always a bad idea.

The goal of this moisturizer for normal to combination skin is to reduce signs of “fatigue” before they become signs of aging, but one doesn’t cause the other. Yes, we tend to look “older” when we’re fatigued, but most signs of aging come from cumulative sun exposure, smoking, an unhealthy diet, menopause, genetics, and gravity; it has nothing to do with being fatigued. Being fatigued simply exaggerates what’s already there, but that’s not the same as fatigue causing signs of aging; getting a good night’s sleep and exercise is what you need to combat fatigue, not this product.

Even if there was stronger logic to the fatigue “causes signs of aging” claim, this fragranced moisturizer’s overall formula and unfortunate packaging are a problem for everyone’s skin. This contains citrus oils and higher amounts of fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation, which hurt the skin’s ability to heal and repair itself. See More Info for details on why daily use of products with fragrant ingredients is a step in the wrong direction.

One more point, Biotherm’s claims and advertised ingredients would lead you to believe their products are all about natural formulations, and that is absolutely not the case. These products are steeped in synthetics, some that are great for skin, but also some that are definitely problematic.

Pros:
  • Silky, lightweight cream texture hydrates well.
Cons:
  • Expensive.
  • Jar packaging won’t keep the “fruit and vegetable fractions” stable during use.
  • Contains fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation (explained in the More Info section).
  • Contains more skin-damaging alcohol than beneficial anti-aging antioxidants.

More Info:

Jar Packaging

The fact that it’s packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

Irritation From Fragrance and Fragrant Oils

Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin’s ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

A combination of naturality and high-efficacy. Biotherm creates SKIN.ERGETIC, its non-stop anti-fatigue moisturizer with 5 fruit and vegetable fractions. A formula with an optimal anti-oxidant complex that reduces visible signs of fatigue so that they don't become signs of aging.

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Olea Europaea Oil, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Alcohol, Undecane, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Silica, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Limonene, Cranberry Seed Oil, Ruscus Aculeatus Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Sodium Phytate, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture, Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract, Dextrin, Geraniol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Polygonum Fagopyrum Extract, Citral, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Fragrance

Biotherm is one of the many companies owned by L'Oreal USA, and has a vast array of products, with many redundancies. It was founded in 1952 by a French biologist who discovered, as the story goes, a mineral-rich element in mountain spring water. Flash-forward to a slick lab where white-coated scientists supposedly figured out a way to capture this element (called vitreoscilla ferment) in its active form, and that's essentially the story behind Biotherm, now sold in 70 countries. The company announced in 2007 that Biotherm would not be sold in any U.S. or Canadian department stores anymore yet would be sold online. But as of 2009, it seems the company changed plans, at least in terms of its Canadian distribution. The brand is sold in most Canadian department stores as well as Shoppers Drug Mart.

Biotherm's claims are wrapped around the effect their special ingredient (vitreoscilla ferment) has on skin, and how it helps skin reactivate its own natural biological processes. We weren't even partway through reviewing these products before noticing the products are far from unique or specially formulated. A major reason for that is the inclusion of problematic ingredients in many products, notably alcohol, lots of fragrance, and menthol derivatives.

But is there anything to Biotherm's fervent belief in and pervasive use of vitreoscilla ferment? This gram-negative bacteria can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro (Source: Journal of Biotechnology, January 2001, pages 57–66). But whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown, and there are no studies supporting the use of this ingredient for skin care. Therefore, you're left to take Biotherm's word for it, even though they don't bother to explain why they avoided so many well-researched antioxidants, or use minuscule amounts of intriguing ingredients that in greater amounts can positively affect skin's structure and healthy functioning. Plus you have to wonder, if this is such a great ingredient for skin, why don't the other L'Oreal companies such as Lancome, Kiehl's, La Roche-Posay, or even L'Oreal use it?

Biotherm is also big on minerals, specifically the gluconate forms of magnesium, copper, and zinc. All of these have some research indicating their merit for skin, but mostly in terms of wound healing or being mildly antibacterial. That's not the way they're showcased in Biotherm's products, of course, because anti-wrinkle and anti-aging claims are what sell products. Although they link minerals with anti-aging prowess, a wrinkle is not a wound. Moreover, the tiny amounts of these minerals found throughout the Biotherm lineup only nullifies their already limited effectiveness as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine. There are some gems to be found in this line, but proceed with caution because most of it is downright boring or just plain bad for your skin.

Note: Biotherm is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Biotherm does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law." Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

For more information about Biotherm, call (888) BIOTHERM or visit www.biotherm-usa.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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