Biotherm (Canada)

Biotherm At-A-Glance

Strengths: Sunscreens now include the right UVA-protecting ingredients; some good cleansers and makeup removers.

Weaknesses: Redundancy, especially within the moisturizer category where there are far too many products whose differences are more tied to name and claims than formula; overuse of alcohol in the moisturizers (the drying kind, not benign fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl); jar packaging; bland toners; ineffective AHA/BHA, and skin-lightening products; overly fragrant products make this brand a poor choice for those with rosacea or sensitive skin.

Biotherm is one of the many companies owned by L'Oreal USA, and has a vast array of products, with many redundancies. It was founded in 1952 by a French biologist who discovered, as the story goes, a mineral-rich element in mountain spring water. Flash-forward to a slick lab where white-coated scientists supposedly figured out a way to capture this element (called vitreoscilla ferment) in its active form, and that's essentially the story behind Biotherm, now sold in 70 countries. The company announced in 2007 that Biotherm would not be sold in any U.S. or Canadian department stores anymore yet would be sold online. But as of 2009, it seems the company changed plans, at least in terms of its Canadian distribution. The brand is sold in most Canadian department stores as well as Shoppers Drug Mart.

Biotherm's claims are wrapped around the effect their special ingredient (vitreoscilla ferment) has on skin, and how it helps skin reactivate its own natural biological processes. We weren't even partway through reviewing these products before noticing the products are far from unique or specially formulated. A major reason for that is the inclusion of problematic ingredients in many products, notably alcohol, lots of fragrance, and menthol derivatives.

But is there anything to Biotherm's fervent belief in and pervasive use of vitreoscilla ferment? This gram-negative bacteria can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro (Source: Journal of Biotechnology, January 2001, pages 57–66). But whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown, and there are no studies supporting the use of this ingredient for skin care. Therefore, you're left to take Biotherm's word for it, even though they don't bother to explain why they avoided so many well-researched antioxidants, or use minuscule amounts of intriguing ingredients that in greater amounts can positively affect skin's structure and healthy functioning. Plus you have to wonder, if this is such a great ingredient for skin, why don't the other L'Oreal companies such as Lancome, Kiehl's, La Roche-Posay, or even L'Oreal use it?

Biotherm is also big on minerals, specifically the gluconate forms of magnesium, copper, and zinc. All of these have some research indicating their merit for skin, but mostly in terms of wound healing or being mildly antibacterial. That's not the way they're showcased in Biotherm's products, of course, because anti-wrinkle and anti-aging claims are what sell products. Although they link minerals with anti-aging prowess, a wrinkle is not a wound. Moreover, the tiny amounts of these minerals found throughout the Biotherm lineup only nullifies their already limited effectiveness as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine. There are some gems to be found in this line, but proceed with caution because most of it is downright boring or just plain bad for your skin.

Note: Biotherm is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Biotherm does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law." Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

For more information about Biotherm, call (888) BIOTHERM or visit www.biotherm-usa.com.

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+ Rating Product Brand Category Price Size
Average White D-Tox Translu-Cell Intense Brightening Cream Biotherm Skin Lighteners  $82.00 50.00 ml
Poor White D-Tox Translu-Cell Clarifying Renovating Lotion Biotherm Toners  $38.00 200.00 ml
Poor White D-Tox Brightening Micro-Scrub Cleanser Biotherm Cleansers/Soaps  $38.00 125.00 ml
Average White D-Tox Bright Cell Intense Brightening Cream Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $72.00 50.00 ml
Poor Source Therapie 7 Skin Perfection Catalyzing Serum Biotherm Serums  $64.00 50.00 ml
Average Skin.Ergetic Signs of Fatigue Repairing Concentrate Biotherm BHA  $58.00 1.70 fl. oz.
Poor Skin.Ergetic Overnight High Recovery Moisturizer with Tea & Seed Fractions Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $51.00 50.00 ml
Average Skin.Ergetic Non-Stop Anti-Fatigue Moisturizer with Fruit & Vegetable Fractions Rich Cream Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $49.00 1.70 fl. oz.
Average Skin.Ergetic Non-Stop Anti-Fatigue Moisturizer with Fruit & Vegetable Fractions Cream Gel Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $49.00 50.00 ml
Average Skin Vivo Uniformity Renovating Anti-Age Moisturizer SPF 15 Biotherm Moisturizers/Anti-Aging  $70.00 50.00 ml
Poor Skin Vivo Uniformity Anti-Dark Spots Reversive Concentrate Biotherm Skin Lighteners  $49.00 15.00 ml
Poor Skin Vivo Reversive Anti-Aging Serum Biotherm Serums  $80.00 50.00 ml
Poor Skin Vivo Reversive Anti-Aging Care Cream Gel for Normal/Combination Skin Biotherm Moisturizers/Anti-Aging  $70.00 50.00 ml
Average Skin Vivo Nuit Overnight Reversive Anti-Aging Care Biotherm Moisturizers/Anti-Aging  $75.00 50.00 ml
Poor Rides Repair Yeux Pur Silicium Intensive Wrinkle Reducer Eye Contour Biotherm Eye Moisturizers  $50.00 15.00 ml
Average Rides Repair Nuit Pur Silicium Intensive Wrinkle Reducer Ultra-Revitalizing Night Cream, Normal/Comb Biotherm Moisturizers/Anti-Aging  $70.00 50.00 ml
Poor Pure.Fect Skin Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $45.00 50.00 ml
Poor Pure.Fect Skin Micro-Exfoliating Purifying Toner Biotherm Toners  $19.00 200.00 ml
Average Pure.Fect Skin Anti-Shine Purifying Cleansing Gel Biotherm Cleansers/Soaps  $19.00 125.00 ml
Average Nutrisource Highly Nurturing Rich Cream (Discontinued) Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $50.00 50.00 ml
Average Multi Recharge Yeux Energetic Eye Care Biotherm Eye Moisturizers  $40.00 15.00 ml
Average Multi Recharge SPF 15 Daily Protective Energetic Moisturizer Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $49.00 50.00 ml
Poor Hydra-Detox Bio-Defensis Detoxifying Moisturizer Rosy Glow Active Protection (Discontinued) Biotherm Moisturizer without Sunscreen  $49.00 1.70 fl. oz.
Average Hydra D-Tox Hydra-Detoxifying Mask (Discontinued) Biotherm Moisturizing/Firming Masks  $39.00 75.00 ml
Good Biosource Total and Instant Cleansing Micellar Water all Makeup Face & Eyes Biotherm Eye Makeup Removers  $19.00 200.00 ml
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