Even True Skintone Brightening Creme

by Black Opal  
Price:
$11.95 - 2 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Lighteners Without Hydroquinone
Last Updated:
6/21/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No

This moisturizing skin-lightening product for dry skin gets its lightening ability from an ingredient known as undecylenoyl phenylalanine. This white powder is composed of amino acids and appears to work by interfering with the pathways in skin that cause excess melanin production (melanin is what dark spots are made of). Concentrations of at least 2% are needed for noticeable results, and based on the ingredient list, we suspect Black Opal is using at least that much.

Other research has shown that this ingredient works even better when combined with niacinamide, yet that's not the case here (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2011, pages 189–196 and December 2009, pages 260–266; and Clinical Experiments in Dermatology, July 2010, pages 473–476). Still, you could add niacinamide to your routine with a product such as Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner, and potentially see greater benefits than using this skin-lightening gel alone.

Pros:
  • Inexpensive.
  • Contains an ingredient research has shown reduces brown spots.
  • Moisturizing formula could replace your regular moisturizer (if you have multiple facial dark spots to treat).
  • Good mix of antioxidants for additional anti-aging benefits.
Cons:
  • Doesn't contain the B-vitamin niacinamide, which research has shown makes this product's chief lightening ingredient even more effective.
  • Contains artificial dyes.
Brighten & even. Discover the radiance-boosting solution to getting even with this scientifically advanced and clinically proven formula which rejuvenates dull, ashy skin and restores youthful radiance in as little as 14 days.
Water (Aqua), PEG-16 Macadamia Glycerides, Petrolatum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Curcuma Zedoaria Root Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Algae Extract, Urea, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Oleate, Oligopeptide-68, Glucosamine HCI, Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Decylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance (Parfum), Red 4, Red 33 Lake, Yellow 5 Lake, Blue 1 Lake.

If Black Opal believes their skin-care products are "what looking beautiful is all about," then this is not a line to be trusted. Creating cosmetics that cater to the needs of African-American women doesn't have to involve a profusion of seriously irritating or, in the case of the sunscreens, seriously incomplete, products. In fact, aside from the name and the somewhat minimal use of African botanicals, nothing about these products is unique to the needs of African-American skin tones. Moreover, no matter what your skin color may be, the basic and enhanced needs of skin remain the same: a gentle cleanser, effective exfoliant, sunscreen, and where and if needed, a moisturizer, all in stable packaging so the products can be effectively loaded with antioxidants and ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin.

African-American skin tones are not without their unique problems, which mostly have to do with pigmentation. But other skin tones, whether related to people of Asian, Latin-American, Caucasian, or other descent, also have to deal with pigmentation problems and uneven skin tones. Even supposing that African-American skin tones do have distinctive needs not shared by any other skin tone, Black Opal isn't the answer, especially considering that the research agrees that is not the case for day-to-day cosmetic care (Sources: Cutis, December 2006, pages 2–19 Supplemental; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 2003, pages 139–142 Supplemental). In fact, this line has so many problematic or shortsighted products they raise more questions than they have answers for!

Surprisingly, Black Opal was developed with the consultation of the African-American dermatologist Dr. Cheryl Burgess. Either the formulators behind this line didn't heed her advice or Dr. Burgess isn't informed about how cosmetic ingredients, particularly irritating ones, work on skin, not to mention the need for reliable UVA protection—fundamental information every dermatologist should not only be preaching but also practicing themselves.

For more information about Black Opal, call BioCosmetic Research Labs at 1-800-774-3477 or visit www.blackopalbeauty.com.

Black Opal Makeup

Black Opal's makeup has seen its prominence dwindle in comparison to other, seemingly lesser-known makeup lines catering to African-American skin tones. The fact that Beyoncé Knowles is a spokeswoman for L'Oreal, Halle Berry represents Revlon, and Queen Latifah appears in ads for Cover Girl, probably has something to do with the smaller market share for this once respectable line. Celebrities selling products is big business, and there is no doubt the aforementioned women are admired by women of all ethnicities. Although the major players' ads have increased awareness of these lines for African-American women, Black Opal has continued to offer the same basic assortment of products reviewed in a previous edition of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Almost without exception, their newer items are disappointing, particularly for eyeshadows, pencils, and lip gloss (really).

The one area where Black Opal makes the grade is with its foundations and powders. The foundations offer some authentic shades suitable for women of color, though the formulas tend to be lackluster or, at the very least, not as elegant as what competing lines offer. There's still reason to seek out and shop this line, but based on an overview of the current Black Opal lineup, we think Beyoncé, Halle, and Queen Latifah made smart decisions!

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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