Age Transforming Concentrate Serum

Price:
$112 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizers/Anti-Aging
Last Updated:
6/19/2014
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Unknown

Unless you’re somehow convinced the blend of peptides in this serum is capable of transforming and lifting aging skin, this is essentially an ultra-pricey version of serums available from Olay’s Regenerist and Total Effects brands. The core ingredients are water, silicone, a derivative of vitamin B3 (more on that in a moment), slip agents, antioxidant, and film-forming agent.

The “star” ingredient in this serum is myristyl nicotinate, which is a derivative of nicotinic acid, a component of vitamin B3 (niacin). To be clear, it is not the same ingredient as niacinamide, but it functions in nearly the same manner (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Just like niacinamide, there is research indicating that myristyl nicotinate does have the ability to improve skin barrier function, mitigate signs of sun damage, and reduce the occurrence of dry skin. Niacinamide and myristyl nicotinate both are compatible with several prescription drugs used to treat various skin conditions, and they are believed to enhance the efficacy of the drugs and/or to minimize their negative side effects. Myristyl nicotinate is stabilized to prevent the release of, or quick conversion to, nicotinic acid, which can cause facial flushing, particularly in those dealing with rosacea (Sources: Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2007, pages 893–899; Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, November 2007, pages 1176–1182; Experimental Dermatology, November 2007, pages 927–935, and June 2007, pages 490–499).

Myristyl nicotinate is a worthwhile, multi-benefit ingredient for skin, but, if the same benefits are attainable from niacinamide and nicacinamide is found in far less expensive products, why choose Canyon Ranch products? Their claim that the delivery system is what makes the difference is not supported by any research, so you’re left to take the company’s word for it, and you know where we stand on that when it comes to questionable information.

Claims aside: overall, this is a well-formulated serum for all skin types except sensitive (the fragrance and the potentially irritating fragrance chemicals are a downfall). If it were me, we’d start with one of the serums with niacinamide from Olay before investing in Age Transforming Concentrate Serum. Even if you go for Olay’s pricey Pro-X brand you’ll still be better off financially and, some would argue, formula-wise.

By the way, despite the impressive research for niacinamide and its derivatives, it cannot lift skin or substantially diminish pronounced signs of aging and there are lots of other brilliant ingredients with great research behind them—niacinamide isn’t the sole solution. There is no single miracle ingredient for skin, but there are lots of great ones!

This rejuvenating serum aims to diminish the appearance of visible signs of aging with a rich blend of anti-aging technologies and botanicals. Using ProNAD to provide incredibly quick and deep product penetration, Age Transforming Concentrate Serum reduces the appearance of fine lines and increases elasticity to lift and renew the complexion. Peptides, ceramides and botanicals such as wheat germ extract and blueberry extract hydrate, smooth, nourish and protect with antioxidants for a healthfully radiant finish.

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Myristyl Nicotinate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Peg-40 Stearate, Soybean (Glycine Soja) Extract, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Silica, Isohexadecane, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyloyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ceramide 2, Ceramide 3, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate /VP Copolymer, PEG-8, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Vaccinium, Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten, Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Cola Nitida Seed Extract, Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Caffeine, Octyldodecanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Arachidyl Propionate, Ethyl Linoleate, Ethyl Linolenate, Polysorbate 80, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance, Aminomethyl Propanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tropolone, Potassium Sorbate Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool

The only tangible transformation you will notice by using any of these Canyon Ranch products is the transfer of currency from your bank account to Canyon Ranch's till. Although it's not the priciest line around, it's definitely aiming for the high end of the skin-care spectrum, with the only apparent goal being to seem elite to discerning spa clientele.

Canyon Ranch is a chain of U.S. spas based in Tucson, Arizona. They also have spas in Las Vegas; Lenox, Massachusetts; and Miami Beach and Kissimmee, Florida; but you don't need to visit any of these "lifestyle" spas to purchase the Your Transformation products. Looking to attract the spa crowd outside of their terrycloth robes and warm slippers, department stores such as Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue are now retailing the Canyon Ranch brand.

Outside of the spa experience, which can be a welcome respite, whether you go to Canyon Ranch or another spa, there is nothing that makes this line worth considering. Honestly, nothing. The company and aestheticians who sell the line will tell you otherwise, but Canyon Ranch's products truly offer nothing new under the sun. That's not to say there aren’t some good products because there are, but they don't set a new standard for skin care or offer any special benefit that lots of other lines don’t also provide, and for a lot less money (and that's not to mention better formulations).

The line's claim to fame is an ingredient they call ProNAD, which Canyon Ranch apparently believes can transform your skin. ProNAD, which is nothing more than a marketing term, isn’t an actual ingredient per se; it's simply myristyl nicotinate. Myristyl nicotinate is a derivative of nicotinic acid, a component of vitamin B3 (niacin). It isn't the same ingredient as niacinamide, but it functions in nearly the same manner (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com).

Just like niacinamide, there is research that shows myristyl nicotinate does have the ability to improve skin barrier function, mitigate signs of sun damage, and reduce the incidence of atopic dermatitis, commonly known as dry skin. Niacinamide and myristyl nicotinate are both compatible with several prescription drugs used to treat various skin conditions and they are believed to enhance the efficacy of these drugs and/or to minimize their negative side effects. Myristyl nicotinate is stabilized to prevent the release of, or quick conversion to, nicotinic acid, which can cause facial flushing, particularly in those dealing with rosacea (Sources: Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2007, pages 893–899; Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, November 2007, pages 1176–1182; Experimental Dermatology, November 2007, pages 927–935, and June 2007, pages 490–499). While all of this is great for skin, these two ingredients are not by any means the only ones that have research showing they are helpful for skin; there are dozens and dozens of other beneficial ingredients.

Separate from the plethora of beneficial ingredients available, why should you choose Canyon Ranch's products with niacinamide over other products (particularly those from Olay) that also contain this ingredient? According to Canyon Ranch, their version of niacinamide transforms skin to its healthiest, most youthful, and most vibrant state. In reality, however, there is no research to support their claim that their version is superior.

So, Canyon Ranch Your Transformation isn't the only game in town when it comes to niacinamide, and their claims of superiority aren't supported in published studies. You'll very likely see your skin improve by using some of their products, especially if you're dealing with an impaired skin barrier, dryness, and discolorations. However, you're just as likely to reap the same benefits by using less expensive products that contain efficacious amounts of niacinamide. Knowing this, unless you're helplessly taken by the (undeserved) allure of spa-based skin care, why bother?

For more information about Canyon Ranch Your Transformation, call (520) 749-9655 or visit www.canyonranch.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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