Vinexpert Firming Serum

by Caudalie Paris   Vinexpert
Price:
$88 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:
5/28/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This serum is said to firm skin due to the antioxidants it contains. Although antioxidants can stimulate collagen production for firmer skin, a big part of the process is how well you’re protecting your skin from daily sun damage. Any firming serum, moisturizer, etc. must be used as part of a routine that protects skin from collagen-depleting sun damage, or it’s all for naught.

That said, this water-based serum contains some good antioxidants and other replenishing ingredients, though it cannot “deeply restructure” skin—this isn’t a face-lift in a bottle!

As with most Caudalie products, some of its best ingredients are listed after the fragrance, and this serum has more fragrance than anyone’s face should have to tolerate (fragrance isn’t skin care, and wow, is this serum fragrant!). This also contains some fragrance ingredients known to cause irritation, though the amounts used are low enough that it’s likely not much of an issue. We like that this thin-textured, lotion-like serum contains an impressive mix of vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and argan extract, but those ingredients don’t justify the price, not to mention skin needs more than two good ingredients to look and act younger.

This oil-free serum deeply restructures the skin so it regains its firmness and elasticity. Skin is visibly younger: the contours are re-sculpted, wrinkles are reduced, skin is redensified. Instant firming effect.

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Propyl Grapevine Shoot Extract Olivate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Parfum (Fragrance), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Silica, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan Laurate, Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Sodium Phytate, Alcohol, Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, Tocopherol, Ci 77491 (Iron Oxides), Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate.

Let's pour ourselves a glass of wine before we begin this review. Okay, now that we are adequately prepared we can, in effect, review this line without smirking. Why wine? Because Caudalie is a skin-care line whose ambience is intended to evoke the importance and value of grapes for your skin. Are you ready for this? Caudalie is in fact a term used in wine tasting; it is an actual measurement used to indicate how long the taste of a wine stays on your palate: 1 caudalie = 1 second. So, if you can still taste the wine in your mouth 1 second after swallowing it, that's 1 caudalie; 2 seconds after swallowing, that's 2 caudalie, and so on. And, supposedly, the more caudalie the wine has the more elegant and superior it is.

What does any of that have to do with skin care? From Caudalie Paris's perspective, everything, because clearly they think the grape is the cornerstone for formulating any skin-care product. After reading their information you could easily assume that Welch's Grape Juice could be used as a toner. But of course that's not what Caudalie has in mind, because it's their formulas they want you to count on, not Welch's juice.

It turns out that grape extract, grape oil, and other parts of the grape do have mounting research proving that they do have benefit for skin when applied topically. Red grapes (stem, seed, pulp, and especially the skin) contain proanthocyanidin and resveratrol, naturally occurring compounds that are considered very potent antioxidants. There is also impressive research showing how helpful these compounds are for reducing the sun's damaging effects, and that topical application plays a role in wound healing. (Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, March-April 2008, pages 415–421; Journal of Medicinal Food, December 2007, pages 636–642, and June 2007, pages 337–344; and Free Radical Biology and Medicine, October 2002, pages 1089–1092).

The research is significant, but (excuse me while we take another sip of wine) what's ludicrous—and disappointing—about the Caudalie products is that most of them don't contain a significant amount of grape extract, and resveratrol (the most potent compound in the grape) is entirely absent. Without question, Caudalie could have formulated products that included a larger amount of grapes and their beneficial compounds—at least it would have given more resonance to their story that the grapes in their products offer long-lasting antioxidant protection to every cell.

Getting back to the research on grapes, what's important to keep in mind is that while grapes are a great source of antioxidant protection, there are also hundreds of other plant extracts, vitamins, and minerals with potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. No single ingredient has achieved the coveted status of "best" when it comes to skin (or health) care. Almost all antioxidants appear to have some benefit for skin, and while some are indeed more stable or more potent than others, there is still no reason to get wrapped up in any single ingredient, any more than your diet should have only one food group for adequate nutrition. Plus, skin needs more than one single antioxidant; thinking otherwise is like believing you can subsist on drinking wine or eating grapes and nothing else. For skin, cell-communicating ingredients, skin-identical ingredients, sun protection, and exfoliants are all fundamental to superior skin care, yet in Caudalie's narrow view, each comes up short.

Although almost all Caudalie products contain a small amount of grapes in one form or another, they don't offer much else for skin, and several of their products contain irritating plant extracts that not only hurt skin but also work against the beneficial compounds from the grapes. In addition, no antioxidant stands much chance of helping skin if you're not protecting your skin from sunlight.

As much as Caudalie would like you to believe that their botanical cocktails are the sought-after fountain of youth, for the most part, you'd be far better off spending your money on fresh grapes, grape juice, or a vintage bottle of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon!

For more information about Caudalie Paris, call (866) 826-1615 or visit www.caudalie.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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