Vinoperfect Day Perfecting Fluid SPF 15 PA++

by Caudalie Paris   Vinoperfect
Price:
$72 - 1.3 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer with Sunscreen
Last Updated:
5/28/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This is an OK, though needlessly expensive, daytime moisturizer with sunscreen for normal to dry skin. Important UVA (think anti-aging) protection is provided by stabilized avobenzone, and the formula contains some intriguing antioxidants. Unfortunately, it contains more fragrance than anti-aging antioxidants, and fragrance isn’t skin care. Instead, it can be a skin irritant, which is why this isn’t rated higher.

The problem with a daytime moisturizer being so expensive is that you’re less likely to apply it liberally each morning, which means you won’t be getting the stated level of sun protection. In contrast, you’re more likely to apply a less expensive daytime moisturizer with sunscreen liberally, because replacing it every month or two is less of a financial burden.

In terms of Caudalie’s skin transformation claims, the dewy finish this leaves will help revive radiance, and the act of protecting your skin from further sun damage will help fade the dark spots that formed due to sun damage (because the dark spots are not constantly being exposed to the UV light that caused them). Although all that’s great, these traits are common to any well-formulated sunscreen for normal to dry skin—you don’t need to spend in this range to obtain these anti-aging benefits.

This correcting, perfecting and moisturizing fluid creates a radiant complexion instantly. day after day, the skin is transformed: dark spots are reduced, skin texture is refined and the complexion is beautifully even and radiant.

Active Ingredients: Octocrylene (8%), Octisalate (5%), Octinoxate (3.996%), Avobenzone (3%); Inactive Ingredients: Water, Heptyl Undecylenate, Dimethicone, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Isoamyl Laurate, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glycerin, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Ci 77019 (Mica), Parfum (Fragrance), Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Alumina, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Rhus Semialata Extract, Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer, Sodium Phytate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ci 77491 (Iron Oxides), Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, BHT, Algin, Tocopherol, Oleanolic Acid, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool.

Let's pour ourselves a glass of wine before we begin this review. Okay, now that we are adequately prepared we can, in effect, review this line without smirking. Why wine? Because Caudalie is a skin-care line whose ambience is intended to evoke the importance and value of grapes for your skin. Are you ready for this? Caudalie is in fact a term used in wine tasting; it is an actual measurement used to indicate how long the taste of a wine stays on your palate: 1 caudalie = 1 second. So, if you can still taste the wine in your mouth 1 second after swallowing it, that's 1 caudalie; 2 seconds after swallowing, that's 2 caudalie, and so on. And, supposedly, the more caudalie the wine has the more elegant and superior it is.

What does any of that have to do with skin care? From Caudalie Paris's perspective, everything, because clearly they think the grape is the cornerstone for formulating any skin-care product. After reading their information you could easily assume that Welch's Grape Juice could be used as a toner. But of course that's not what Caudalie has in mind, because it's their formulas they want you to count on, not Welch's juice.

It turns out that grape extract, grape oil, and other parts of the grape do have mounting research proving that they do have benefit for skin when applied topically. Red grapes (stem, seed, pulp, and especially the skin) contain proanthocyanidin and resveratrol, naturally occurring compounds that are considered very potent antioxidants. There is also impressive research showing how helpful these compounds are for reducing the sun's damaging effects, and that topical application plays a role in wound healing. (Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, March-April 2008, pages 415–421; Journal of Medicinal Food, December 2007, pages 636–642, and June 2007, pages 337–344; and Free Radical Biology and Medicine, October 2002, pages 1089–1092).

The research is significant, but (excuse me while we take another sip of wine) what's ludicrous—and disappointing—about the Caudalie products is that most of them don't contain a significant amount of grape extract, and resveratrol (the most potent compound in the grape) is entirely absent. Without question, Caudalie could have formulated products that included a larger amount of grapes and their beneficial compounds—at least it would have given more resonance to their story that the grapes in their products offer long-lasting antioxidant protection to every cell.

Getting back to the research on grapes, what's important to keep in mind is that while grapes are a great source of antioxidant protection, there are also hundreds of other plant extracts, vitamins, and minerals with potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. No single ingredient has achieved the coveted status of "best" when it comes to skin (or health) care. Almost all antioxidants appear to have some benefit for skin, and while some are indeed more stable or more potent than others, there is still no reason to get wrapped up in any single ingredient, any more than your diet should have only one food group for adequate nutrition. Plus, skin needs more than one single antioxidant; thinking otherwise is like believing you can subsist on drinking wine or eating grapes and nothing else. For skin, cell-communicating ingredients, skin-identical ingredients, sun protection, and exfoliants are all fundamental to superior skin care, yet in Caudalie's narrow view, each comes up short.

Although almost all Caudalie products contain a small amount of grapes in one form or another, they don't offer much else for skin, and several of their products contain irritating plant extracts that not only hurt skin but also work against the beneficial compounds from the grapes. In addition, no antioxidant stands much chance of helping skin if you're not protecting your skin from sunlight.

As much as Caudalie would like you to believe that their botanical cocktails are the sought-after fountain of youth, for the most part, you'd be far better off spending your money on fresh grapes, grape juice, or a vintage bottle of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon!

For more information about Caudalie Paris, call (866) 826-1615 or visit www.caudalie.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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