02.20.2013
0
4
Ultra Correction Lift Ultra Lifting Firming Night Cream
Rating
1.7 fl. oz. for $165
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:02.20.2013
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

This moisturizer has an emollient texture that will feel great on dry skin. However, the price is absurd for what amounts to a completely ordinary, ho-hum formulation. Aside from a pathetic amount of state-of-the-art ingredients, the little it does contain won’t remain stable due to the jar packaging.

There are hundreds of moisturizers whose textures are as nice as this one, but whose formulas provide a well-rounded assortment of ingredients that dry skin needs to look and feel its best. Chanel includes more fragrance than intriguing plants and peptides, and for what they’re charging those ingredients should be up front and center. None of the ingredients in this moisturizer can stimulate building blocks in skin so it becomes lifted and firmer. Besides, Chanel sells over a dozen other products claiming the same thing; if those really worked to lift skin, then why create the Ultra Correction line?

As is true for all of the Ultra Correction products Chanel is selling, this one contains elemi PFA as the showcased miracle ingredient. It isn’t. For more information about this substance, see the review for Chanel’s Ultra Correction Lift Sculpting Firming Concentrate.

Claims

High-performing star ingredient elemi PFA* stimulates the production of tensin, improving the quality of skin's collagen and elastin fibers, and helping to improve their bonds within the skin to create a firm supportive network. Velvety cream, luxuriously textured and delicately scented, intensely nourishes for a plumping and firming effect, specifically formulated for skin’s night function.

Ingredients

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Canola Oil, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Steareth-21, Shea Butter, HDI Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopherol Acetate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Behenth-21 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Capryl Glycol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Decarboxy Carnoside Hcl, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Carbomer, Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Nyctanthes Arbor Tristis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 20, Propylparaben, Tocopherol, Sodium Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Red 33

Brand Overview

Chanel At-A-Glance

Strengths: Hmmmm… sleek and occasionally elegant packaging; the sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection; a handful of good cleansers and a topical scrub; some impressive foundations with sunscreen; an assortment of good makeup products including concealer, blush, mascara, eyeshadow and bronzer.

Weaknesses: Expensive, with an emphasis on style over substance; overpriced; overreliance on jar packaging; antioxidants in most products amount to a mere dusting; no products to successfully address sun- or hormone-induced skin discolorations with research-proven ingredients; mostly mediocre to poor eye pencils; extremely limited options for eyeshadows if you want a matte finish.

The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.

Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)

Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.

For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.

Chanel Makeup

Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.

Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!

Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

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