Hydra Beauty Creme

by Chanel  
Price:
$87 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
12/19/2014
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Like most expensive moisturizers, Hydra Beauty Creme comes with a story centered on one ingredient. Before we discuss that ingredient, you need to know that skin care is never as simple as one ingredient. Just like a variety of nutrients are needed for optimum health, skin needs a variety of good ingredients to be at its best.

The "active" ingredient Chanel calls out is the plant Camellia alba, which they refer to as "camellia alba PFA." According to Chanel, this plant promotes "optimal moisture retention within skin cells," but there is no research supporting this claim; even if such research did exist, there's a long list of other ingredients with lots of research showing they can help skin maintain moisture and fight environmental damage (and optimally, too)! What research has revealed about camellia alba PFA (which Chanel lists by its correct Latin name Camellia japonica; we're not sure why they label it "alba") is that an extract from this flower seems to inhibit excess melanin production, and, like most plants, it also functions as an antioxidant (Sources: Chemical & Pharmaceutical Bulletin (Tokyo), volume 60, issue 9, 2012, pages 1188–1194; Journal of Natural Products, August, 2012, pages 1425–1430; and International Journal of Molecular Sciences, April 2011, ePublication). That's wonderful, but hardly unique to this product, not to mention that the jar packaging for this moisturizer won't keep this plant extract stable during use (see More Info for details).

On balance, the price and jar packaging alone make this a questionable product. The formula isn't much to brag about, although it does have a rich texture those with normal to dry skin might appreciate. By our standards, however, as well as those of published research on skin care, a nice, rich texture isn't enough—not if you want anti-aging benefits, too.

Pros:
  • Rich, emollient texture feels good on dry skin.
Cons:
  • Expensive.
  • Jar packaging won't keep key ingredients stable during use.
  • Camellia japonica and blue ginger aren't the best anti-aging ingredients around.
  • Isn't as well formulated as many other moisturizers.
More Info:

The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

At the heart of the HYDRA BEAUTY range: Camellia Alba PFA*, an active ingredient that promotes optimal moisture retention within skin cells. When combined with an improved, more powerful version of Blue Ginger PFA, a vital antioxidant, the perfect synergy of ultimate hydration and protection is created.

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Silica, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, PEG-40 Stearate, Camellia Kissi Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Phenoxyethanol, Saccharide Isomerate, Cetyl Alcohol, Steareth-2, Dimethicone, Parfum (Fragrance), Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Carbomer, Lauroyl Lysine, Propylene Glycol, PEG-12, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Tocopherol, Propylparaben, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ethylparaben, Sodium Benzoate.

The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.

Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)

Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.

For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.

Chanel Makeup

Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.

Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!

Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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