12.04.2012
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Bio Lift Concealer
Rating
$69
Category:Makeup > Concealers & Highlighters > Stick Concealer
Last Updated:12.04.2012
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

One of the most expensive concealers available anywhere, Bio Lift comes with claims that it relaxes expression lines and prevents new ones from forming. The salesperson commented that this stick concealer’s clear core is an eye cream, so you’re getting two products in one. And once again, Chantecaille advertises this has SPF 10, but lists no active ingredients. As it turns out, you can’t trust the SPF claims any more than you can trust the line-erasing ones, as both are completely bogus. As mentioned, there are no active ingredients listed so the SPF does not meet FDA regulations and there are no ingredients in here that relax anything.

This concealer has a slick, creamy-bordering-on-greasy texture that provides minimal coverage and creases almost immediately. The colorless “eye cream core” makes for an uneven application that requires more blending than most other concealers and causes it to crease into lines (isn’t that a pretty picture). With the exception of peach-tinged Nude, all of the shades are attractive. However, there are too many significant drawbacks to make this a wise investment. If you want to spend in this range for concealer, the stick version from Cle de Peau is infinitely better, but there are so many brilliant concealers around for a fraction the price of this one, why would you want to waste the money?

Claims

Chantecaille introduced this concealer as the very first one that actually works to erase fine lines as it covers them. With two-in-one impact, this powerhouse product combines innovative technology with ultra-smooth color coverage.

Ingredients
Brand Overview

Chantecaille At-a-Glance

Strengths: The makeup far surpasses the skin care, but is not without its problems; one good serum; a skin lightening product with arbutin; excellent range of foundation, concealer, and powder shades for light to medium skin tones; beautiful powder blush and eyeshadows; some impressive eye and lip pencils (if you don't mind routine sharpening).

Weaknesses: Unjustifiably expensive; several products contain problematic plants or fragrant waxes and oils; no sunscreens; no effective anti-acne products; no AHA or BHA exfoliants; none of the products advertising an SPF rating contain active ingredients or any other ingredients capable of shielding skin from sun damage; the Luminous Eye Liner; boring mascara.

Created by Sylvie Chantecaille, this line of makeup and skin-care products, sold at Neiman Marcus and some salons and spas, draws on Chantecaille's 20 years of experience as an employee of Estee Lauder Corporation. The fact that she worked for Lauder and helped to create and launch the Prescriptives line is impressive. Experience means a lot in the crowded, complicated cosmetics industry and it's as good a reason as any to start your own product line.

Not surprisingly, she claims her products are known for their "uniquely high concentration of natural botanicals" and their organic origins, though it takes only a cursory look at the ingredient list to see that isn't true—did she really think no one would notice propylene glycol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, methylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine, and PEG-8, which are about as natural as polyester? What is true, however, is that most of the plants in these products are present in very small amounts, often listed after the preservative.

What almost every cosmetic company knows (we can't think of one that doesn't) is that you can't brag about the synthetic ingredients your products contain, even if they are the backbone of every product you make. Selling skin-care products is far easier when you use terms such as "pure," "holistic," or "wellness." Chantecaille takes this faux information one step further by saying (and we're not kidding about this) that her products are "endowed with a potent life force." Oooh-la-la! But … once you pull off the rose-colored glasses and probe beneath the hyperbole, all you are left with is a bouquet of fantasy that won't help your skin.

Even more bewildering than the natural claims is that Chantecaille asserts that their emphasis on anti-aging focuses primarily on addressing the causes of inflammation. Without question, inflammation plays a role in how the skin and the body age, and recent research is showing that it probably plays a greater role than previously suspected. Any cosmetic company that is trying to make products that reduce inflammation and its effects is a good thing—but for all their talk, Chantecaille's formulas don't inhibit inflammation; instead, many of them increase inflammation thanks to the numerous fragrant plant oils and waxes they contain. While these ingredients create lovely aromas, scent isn't skin care. Most of these fragrant plant ingredients contain volatile chemicals that create the scent; it is these chemicals (e.g., eugenol, limonene, citronellol, and linalool) that cause skin irritation that leads to, you guessed it, inflammation (Sources: Rapid Communications in Mass Spectronomy, November 2008 pages 3593–3598; Chemical Research in Toxicology, May 2007, pages 807–814; and The British Journal of Dermatology, May 2006, pages 885–888).

In contrast, there is little more than anecdotal research indicating that the problematic plant ingredients Chantecaille uses are actually healing, as the company claims.

The chief reason to explore Chantecaille is their makeup. Although there isn't a single item that doesn't have an equally good counterpart in other lines for far less money, if you're curious about Chantecaille, color is where it's at. Their foundation shade range has improved and is beautifully neutral. The textures and finishes for foundation, powder, blush, eyeshadow, and lip glosses are outstanding, as are the finishes. In short, Chantecaille has made it very easy to assemble a makeup wardrobe that makes skin look smooth, polished, and radiant, although their foundations and powders are geared toward those with normal to dry skin.

One more comment: Chantecaille has a penchant for attributing sun-protection claims and SPF ratings to various products. They do so in violation of FDA regulations on sunscreens because the company does not list active ingredients on their label. If a cosmetic company can't even get that right, then much of what they do is called into question, aside from just looking askance at their claims. Considering the price of their products, this omission is nearly unforgivable; please don't rely on the claim for sun protection, because it assuredly puts your skin at risk for sun damage. By the way, none of the natural ingredients in these products provide sun protection on their own, either. Ingredients such as vitamins C and E can, to some extent, help skin defend itself against sun damage and boost the longevity of sunscreen actives, but by themselves they're not capable of providing sun protection on a par with what's required to earn an SPF rating.

For more information about Chantecaille, call 877-673-7080 or visit www.chantecaille.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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07.14.2014
Much better than Poor!

The product is too pricey, but I am pleased with the results. It is better than any other concealer I have ever used. It covers well and is not too thick. The light color works well for me. Because of the price, I probably won't buy it again. When it was demonstrated in a store, I liked it and bought it without asking the price. Wow, was I surprised when my credit card bill came!

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Sylvia D.
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