Biodynamic Lifting Oil Free Fluid

Price:
$250 - 1.69 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Oil-Absorbing/Mattifying
Last Updated:
8/19/2009
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No

Just like Chantecaille’s claims for their Biodynamic Lifting Cream, the claims for this moisturizer are pure fiction, but this one has even more problems. It absolutely doesn’t mattify skin, and has no ingredients that can target acne or “truly” balance sebum (oil) in skin. While it might technically be oil-free, it contains enough emollients (i.e., shea butter and triglycerides) to be a problem for oily skin. Beyond the foolish anti-acne and oil-reducing claims, this lotion also is supposed to lift skin and erase lines and wrinkles, which is all nonsense and a shocking waste of time and money. Even the good ingredients aren’t unique to this product.

When all is said and done, this product is not recommended, but not because of its fictitious claims or because several ingredients it contains have the potential to make acne worse; rather, it is a problem for all skin types due to the amount of cinnamon bark extract. The bark of this plant is a significant source of the fragrance chemical cinnamaldehyde, and it is known to cause contact dermatitis (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Cinnamon bark has antibacterial properties, but there is no research proving it has an effect on acne-causing bacteria. At this price, your skin deserves facts, not baseless hope and puffery along with irritation.

Oil-free emulsion with a mattifying ability. The first anti-aging moisturizer that targets acne and truly balances sebum production. Has a unique lifting ability that works to erase lines and smooth out wrinkles. Works to energize cellular activity, activating skin's cellular renewal and regeneration.
Rosa Damascena Flower Distillate, Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Ptfe, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Nylon-12, Shea Butter Extract, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Plankton Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Oleate, Stearic Acid, Shea Butter, Saccharide Isomerate, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Bisabolol, Spent Grain Wax, Carbomer, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, PPG-25-Laureth-25, Methylparaben, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax, Jasmine Flower Wax, Narcissus Poeticus Flower Wax, Pollen Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycoproteins, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Palm Oil, Tocotrienols, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Michelia Alba Leaf Oil, Coconut Oil, Phytosterols, Beta-Carotene, Butylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylparaben, Sarcosine, PEG-8, Citronellol, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Tocopherol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citric Acid, Sorbitol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Illite, Squalene, Chlorophenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Ascorbic Acid, BHT, Hydroxyethylcellulose [Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool]

Created by Sylvie Chantecaille, this line of makeup and skin-care products, sold at Neiman Marcus and some salons and spas, draws on Chantecaille's 20 years of experience as an employee of Estee Lauder Corporation. The fact that she worked for Lauder and helped to create and launch the Prescriptives line is impressive. Experience means a lot in the crowded, complicated cosmetics industry and it's as good a reason as any to start your own product line.

Not surprisingly, she claims her products are known for their "uniquely high concentration of natural botanicals" and their organic origins, though it takes only a cursory look at the ingredient list to see that isn't true—did she really think no one would notice propylene glycol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, methylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine, and PEG-8, which are about as natural as polyester? What is true, however, is that most of the plants in these products are present in very small amounts, often listed after the preservative.

What almost every cosmetic company knows (we can't think of one that doesn't) is that you can't brag about the synthetic ingredients your products contain, even if they are the backbone of every product you make. Selling skin-care products is far easier when you use terms such as "pure," "holistic," or "wellness." Chantecaille takes this faux information one step further by saying (and we're not kidding about this) that her products are "endowed with a potent life force." Oooh-la-la! But … once you pull off the rose-colored glasses and probe beneath the hyperbole, all you are left with is a bouquet of fantasy that won't help your skin.

Even more bewildering than the natural claims is that Chantecaille asserts that their emphasis on anti-aging focuses primarily on addressing the causes of inflammation. Without question, inflammation plays a role in how the skin and the body age, and recent research is showing that it probably plays a greater role than previously suspected. Any cosmetic company that is trying to make products that reduce inflammation and its effects is a good thing—but for all their talk, Chantecaille's formulas don't inhibit inflammation; instead, many of them increase inflammation thanks to the numerous fragrant plant oils and waxes they contain. While these ingredients create lovely aromas, scent isn't skin care. Most of these fragrant plant ingredients contain volatile chemicals that create the scent; it is these chemicals (e.g., eugenol, limonene, citronellol, and linalool) that cause skin irritation that leads to, you guessed it, inflammation (Sources: Rapid Communications in Mass Spectronomy, November 2008 pages 3593–3598; Chemical Research in Toxicology, May 2007, pages 807–814; and The British Journal of Dermatology, May 2006, pages 885–888).

In contrast, there is little more than anecdotal research indicating that the problematic plant ingredients Chantecaille uses are actually healing, as the company claims.

The chief reason to explore Chantecaille is their makeup. Although there isn't a single item that doesn't have an equally good counterpart in other lines for far less money, if you're curious about Chantecaille, color is where it's at. Their foundation shade range has improved and is beautifully neutral. The textures and finishes for foundation, powder, blush, eyeshadow, and lip glosses are outstanding, as are the finishes. In short, Chantecaille has made it very easy to assemble a makeup wardrobe that makes skin look smooth, polished, and radiant, although their foundations and powders are geared toward those with normal to dry skin.

One more comment: Chantecaille has a penchant for attributing sun-protection claims and SPF ratings to various products. They do so in violation of FDA regulations on sunscreens because the company does not list active ingredients on their label. If a cosmetic company can't even get that right, then much of what they do is called into question, aside from just looking askance at their claims. Considering the price of their products, this omission is nearly unforgivable; please don't rely on the claim for sun protection, because it assuredly puts your skin at risk for sun damage. By the way, none of the natural ingredients in these products provide sun protection on their own, either. Ingredients such as vitamins C and E can, to some extent, help skin defend itself against sun damage and boost the longevity of sunscreen actives, but by themselves they're not capable of providing sun protection on a par with what's required to earn an SPF rating.

For more information about Chantecaille, call 877-673-7080 or visit www.chantecaille.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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