Vital Essence is not the least bit vital for skin! It's mostly fragrant rose water with glycerin, slip agents, and preservative. This gel-based, lightweight serum is a marginally acceptable option for normal to oily skin, but it contains fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation, so it's inappropriate for extra-sensitive skin. The fragrance also makes this a poor choice for use around the eyes, though Chantecaille sells this as a face and eye serum (which is odd, because they also sell separate eye serums).
What saves this product from earning our lowest rating is the inclusion of a small amount of non-fragrant antioxidant plant oils as well as some vitamin E, soy, and a type of yeast that may have anti-inflammatory benefit for skin. Despite that bit of good news, it almost goes without saying that the price for this product is completely out of line. Chantecaille's claim that this is the "ultimate anti-aging serum" is a joke!
- Contains some good antioxidants.
- Fragrant rose water is the first ingredient, and it poses a risk of irritation.
- Rather basic formula for a lot of money.
The ultimate anti-aging serum.
Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide, Squalane, Glycine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Dimethicone, Glycol Distearate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Bentonite, Isosteareth-20, Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Citronellol, Geraniol, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Natto Gum, Pueraria Lobata (Kudzu) Root Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris (Green Algea) Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract
Created by Sylvie Chantecaille, this line of makeup and skin-care products, sold at Neiman Marcus and some salons and spas, draws on Chantecaille's 20 years of experience as an employee of Estee Lauder Corporation. The fact that she worked for Lauder and helped to create and launch the Prescriptives line is impressive. Experience means a lot in the crowded, complicated cosmetics industry and it's as good a reason as any to start your own product line.
Not surprisingly, she claims her products are known for their "uniquely high concentration of natural botanicals" and their organic origins, though it takes only a cursory look at the ingredient list to see that isn't true—did she really think no one would notice propylene glycol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, methylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine, and PEG-8, which are about as natural as polyester? What is true, however, is that most of the plants in these products are present in very small amounts, often listed after the preservative.
What almost every cosmetic company knows (we can't think of one that doesn't) is that you can't brag about the synthetic ingredients your products contain, even if they are the backbone of every product you make. Selling skin-care products is far easier when you use terms such as "pure," "holistic," or "wellness." Chantecaille takes this faux information one step further by saying (and we're not kidding about this) that her products are "endowed with a potent life force." Oooh-la-la! But … once you pull off the rose-colored glasses and probe beneath the hyperbole, all you are left with is a bouquet of fantasy that won't help your skin.
Even more bewildering than the natural claims is that Chantecaille asserts that their emphasis on anti-aging focuses primarily on addressing the causes of inflammation. Without question, inflammation plays a role in how the skin and the body age, and recent research is showing that it probably plays a greater role than previously suspected. Any cosmetic company that is trying to make products that reduce inflammation and its effects is a good thing—but for all their talk, Chantecaille's formulas don't inhibit inflammation; instead, many of them increase inflammation thanks to the numerous fragrant plant oils and waxes they contain. While these ingredients create lovely aromas, scent isn't skin care. Most of these fragrant plant ingredients contain volatile chemicals that create the scent; it is these chemicals (e.g., eugenol, limonene, citronellol, and linalool) that cause skin irritation that leads to, you guessed it, inflammation (Sources: Rapid Communications in Mass Spectronomy, November 2008 pages 3593–3598; Chemical Research in Toxicology, May 2007, pages 807–814; and The British Journal of Dermatology, May 2006, pages 885–888).
In contrast, there is little more than anecdotal research indicating that the problematic plant ingredients Chantecaille uses are actually healing, as the company claims.
The chief reason to explore Chantecaille is their makeup. Although there isn't a single item that doesn't have an equally good counterpart in other lines for far less money, if you're curious about Chantecaille, color is where it's at. Their foundation shade range has improved and is beautifully neutral. The textures and finishes for foundation, powder, blush, eyeshadow, and lip glosses are outstanding, as are the finishes. In short, Chantecaille has made it very easy to assemble a makeup wardrobe that makes skin look smooth, polished, and radiant, although their foundations and powders are geared toward those with normal to dry skin.
One more comment: Chantecaille has a penchant for attributing sun-protection claims and SPF ratings to various products. They do so in violation of FDA regulations on sunscreens because the company does not list active ingredients on their label. If a cosmetic company can't even get that right, then much of what they do is called into question, aside from just looking askance at their claims. Considering the price of their products, this omission is nearly unforgivable; please don't rely on the claim for sun protection, because it assuredly puts your skin at risk for sun damage. By the way, none of the natural ingredients in these products provide sun protection on their own, either. Ingredients such as vitamins C and E can, to some extent, help skin defend itself against sun damage and boost the longevity of sunscreen actives, but by themselves they're not capable of providing sun protection on a par with what's required to earn an SPF rating.
For more information about Chantecaille, call 877-673-7080 or visit www.chantecaille.com.