Youth Surge SPF 15 Age Decelerating Moisturizer, Combination Oily to Oily
1.7 fl. oz. for $52
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer with Sunscreen
Last Updated:01.15.2013
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

Clinique’s ads Youth Surge daytime moisturizers with sunscreen are said to leverage sirtuin technology to tackle lines and wrinkles. Before we discuss sirtuins and skin, it is worth asking what the company means by “leverage.” By stating in their ads that their product is “Leveraging sirtuin technology,” they could mean gaining advantage from this technology, paying to use this technology, or, really, whatever they want it to mean. It doesn’t say the technology is making a difference and changing the structure of your skin. Look closely at the claims for the Youth Surge products and you’ll see that every statement they make is a purely cosmetic claim. “Visible effects” could mean anything—visible effects of what? “Seem to evaporate” doesn’t mean that lines and wrinkles will really go away, it could mean that water evaporates, and the word “seems” doesn’t mean it is actually happening. “Skin gains strength” is a strange claim that might lead you to believe it will build collagen or appear more taut, but it could really mean just about anything you want it to mean. That’s the art of cosmetic ad copy.

Now, back to sirtuins. Sirtuins are proteins that are involved in regulating biological processes by controlling the chain of events that cause these processes to occur, which is why they’re often referred to as information regulators. The anti-aging connection has to do with their potential to regulate cellular processes responsible for aging. It is believed that if certain sirtuins can be modified to work against the mechanisms of aging that the results might be visible on skin: think fewer wrinkles, less sagging, and greater resiliency. Although sirtuin manipulation has no research showing it can affect wrinkles, that didn’t stop Clinique from jumping on the youthful skin connection and parlaying the research about sirtuins and degenerative diseases into skin-care products. And what about all of Clinique’s other “de-agers” that don’t contain sirtuins? Are they of lesser value for skin because they’re behind the times? Should Clinique stop selling those?

What seems promising is that topical application of specific sirtuins derived from yeast (in this case Saccharomyces lysate) and the antioxidant resveratrol (in this case from the root of the plant Polygonum cuspidatum) seem to have a protective effect on skin in the presence of oxidative and ultraviolet light stress. However, more research is needed before we’d suggest anyone run out and look for products that increase sirtuin activity in their skin. Plus, we don’t know the risk associated with manipulating sirtuins, whether they might have negative side effects.

The problem is twofold. First, there is limited research showing how much and what type of sirtuin is needed topically to cause desirable cellular changes leading to younger looking skin. Plus, the bioavailability of a topically applied source of sirtuins is questionable given that we don’t know how efficiently they penetrate intact skin. (Testing skin cells in a lab setting with concentrated doses of ingredients that stimulate sirtuins is an entirely different story from actual use.)

Second, and an even bigger concern, is that whenever normal cellular processes are manipulated, you run the risk of causing a potential overproliferation of cells. In other words, how would the sirtuin-influenced cells know when too much of a good thing becomes a health-threatening problem? How long is too long to keep skin cells active? How much manipulation of biological processes starts a cascading negative chain of events that could lead to unwanted consequences such as cancer (Sources: Current Medicinal Chemistry, 2008, pages 1887–1899; Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, June 2007, pages 14–19; Nature Reviews: Drug Discovery, June 2006, pages 493–506).

As has become standard for Clinique, this daytime moisturizer with sunscreen includes reliable UVA protection (from titanium dioxide, though a higher percentage would be preferred) and is loaded with antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and, to a lesser degree, skin-identical substances. Unfortunately, jar packaging won’t keep the majority of these state-of-the-art ingredients stable during use. Youth Surge’s sunscreen is the only “age decelerating” effect you can rely on, but we’d advise you to look for equally impressive formulas in better packaging. If you decide to try this anyway, it’s best for normal to dry skin; those with oily skin will find it way too creamy.


Leveraging Sirtuin technology, Clinique science uses youth-extending agents to create a daily moisturizer with visible effects. Lines and wrinkles seem to evaporate, replaced by plump, vibrant skin alive with collagen and elastin. Skin gains strength over environmental agers. Looks younger, longer.


Active: Octinoxate (7.5%), Titanium Dioxide (1.4%), Other: Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract, Coleus Barbatus Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul's Wort) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Bran) Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Algae Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Betula Alba (Birch) Bark Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Coffea Robusta Seed Extract, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Extract, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Creatine, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polyethylene, Pentylene Glycol, Caffeine, Behenyl Alcohol, Linoleic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Isoniacinamide, Cholesterol, Lecithin, Sorbitol, Aminoguanidine Hcl, Trehalose, Silica, Sodium Rna, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Disodium Nadh, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Methicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Potassium Sulfate, Adenosine Phosphate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Glycine, Phytosphingosine, Acrylates Copolymer, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydroxyproline, Proline, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, Sodium DNA, Potassium Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Brand Overview

Clinique At-A-Glance

Strengths: One of the best selections of state-of-the-art moisturizers and serums loaded with ingredients that research has shown are of great benefit to skin; excellent sunscreens; several Redness Solutions products excel; an outstanding benzoyl peroxide product; good selection of self-tanning products; some very good cleansers and eye makeup removers; some unique mattifying products; a large and wholly impressive selection of foundations, many with reliable sun protection (and shades for darker skin tones); good concealers; some remarkable mascaras; much-improved eyeshadows; loose powder; blush products; some brilliant lipsticks and lip gloss; gel eyeliner; priced lower than most competing department-store lines.

Weaknesses: The three-step skincare routine, because of the bar soaps and irritant-laden clarifying lotions; jar packaging downgrades several otherwise top-notch moisturizers; incomplete routines for those prone to acne; skin-lightening products with either unproven or insufficient levels of lightening agents.

Estee Lauder-owned Clinique's tremendous success (the company's products are sold in over 13,000 department stores and in 110 countries) reshaped the way cosmetics lines identified themselves, sending the concept of line loyalty out to pasture. Today, cosmetics companies expand their market either by buying already established companies or by creating new ones, and Lauder has been adept at doing both. Of course, cosmetics companies keep this multiple-personality identity hidden from the consumer. If the general buying public realized that these apparently different companies were so intertwined with each other, how could they flaunt their independence and claim that their unparalleled formulations are secret or the best? It's hard to think Lauder (or any company) would, even if they could, keep secrets from one branch separate from the others. And as evidenced by the formulary similarities between brands, they don't!

The niche Clinique built launched the concept of cosmetics being "allergy-tested," "hypoallergenic," "100% fragrance-free," and "dermatologist tested." Of those marketing claims the only one with significance is "100% fragrance-free," which, for the most part, Clinique maintains (although it does add some fragrant extracts to a few products). Regarding allergy testing, unless you can see the results, what difference does it make if a product makes that claim? What if the test showed 20% of the women who used it had a sensitizing reaction, dryness, or irritation? Would Clinique highlight this, or is it just easier to default to the generic allergy-tested claim and leave such details out, figuring consumers won't ask for more? 

Moreover, "hypoallergenic" is a term not regulated by the FDA, so any product can use the word without having to substantiate the claim. "Dermatologist tested" is also bogus, because without published test results the term can easily mean nothing more than that a dermatologist picked up the product, looked at the container, and said "This looks good." And what about the dermatologists on Clinique's payroll? How do we know they're not the ones involved in testing, rather than sending the products out for independent, impartial evaluation (though how impartial can any study be that's paid for by the company making the product)?

Clinique declined any participation for this site, which included refusing to send us copies of the allergy studies they maintain have been performed for every product they sell. We find their unwillingness to help odd because, for the most part, we genuinely like most of their products. In fact, more than any other department-store line except Estee Lauder, Clinique is leading the way with cutting-edge, state-of-the-art moisturizers and serums, plus some formidable makeup. They also have their act together for sunscreens and have expanded their decades-old three-step skin-care routine to include water-soluble cleansers instead of bar soap. They also now have a second "Dramatically Different" moisturizer that's well-suited for those with normal to oily skin and FINALLY reformulated their longstanding water-and-wax yellow lotion.

The Clinique consultants, dressed in medical-looking white lab coats (Clinique's image in that sense was ahead of the times given today's plethora of doctor-designed skin-care lines), do their best to speak intelligently about skin-care routines, but for the most part they're trained to sell the products rather than to provide information about what substantiated research has shown about the skin's needs to look and feel its best.

The good news for you is that the chemists behind Clinique's arsenal of products have been keeping up on this exciting information, and formulating superior products in response. We wouldn't blindly and solely bank on Clinique as your skin-care solution, but more than ever what they offer is, despite some far-out claims and problematic products, what epitomizes advanced skin care for all ages. Shop carefully and you'll leave confident that you are purchasing products with solid science, not just marketing hype, behind them.

Turning to makeup, Clinique continues to offer a vast palette of colors and textures, especially in their huge and imposing selection of foundations, many of which feature effective sunscreens. In fact, this category has become the most compelling reason to shop Clinique's makeup collection. Without a doubt the numerous formulas offer something for every skin type and almost every skin color. The shade selection has improved considerably, with more neutrals and a broader range than ever before. You still need to use caution and watch out for peach-toned duds, but for the most part finding a natural-looking match shouldn't be a frustrating experience, and the counter personnel are happy to provide samples.

Although the foundation and powder shades take darker skin tones into account, the blush, eye pencil, and most of the lipstick shades do not. Perhaps that will change in the future, as Clinique beautifully updated their eyeshadow collection with ultra-smooth textures and deeper colors that show up on darker skin.

Compliments are also due for Clinique's updated makeup tester units. They are well-organized, labeled with product name and price, and easily accessible without a salesperson's help. And speaking of salespeople, most of the Clinique consultants we encounter go above and beyond to provide assistance and to answer any questions we had (even if we didn't always agree with their responses). Those white lab coats don't mean medical expertise, but we'll take outstanding customer service over pseudoscience any day!

The bottom line is that, despite a few shortcomings, Clinique is one of the most comprehensive (and comparably affordable) department-store makeup lines, and it is completely understandable why they enjoy such broad appeal.

Note: Clinique is categorized as one that tests on animals because their products are sold in China. Although Clinique does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brand’s state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law”. Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Beautypedia Team.

For more information about Clinique, call (800) 419-4041 or visit www.clinique.com

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!

The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

Member Comments
Summary of Member Comments
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Good moisturizer with SPF

This is lightweight and leaves a smooth matte finish. I am happy that it has SPF and it does a good job moisturizing my skin. I have oily skin and this is not too heavy at all.

Reviewed by
Brooke R.
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