03.17.2015
3
24
Youth Surge SPF 15 Age Decelerating Moisturizer, Dry Combination
Rating
1.7 fl. oz. for $52
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer with Sunscreen
Last Updated:03.17.2015
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

Clinique’sYouth Surge daytime moisturizers with sunscreen are said to leverage sirtuin technology to tackle lines and wrinkles. Before we discuss sirtuins and skin, it is worth asking what the company means by “leverage.” By stating in their ads that their product is “Leveraging sirtuin technology,” they could mean gaining advantage from this technology, paying to use this technology, or, really, whatever they want it to mean. It doesn’t say the technology is making a difference and changing the structure of your skin. Look closely at the claims for the Youth Surge products and you’ll see that every statement they make is a purely cosmetic claim. “Visible effects” could mean anything—visible effects of what? “Seem to evaporate” doesn’t mean that lines and wrinkles will really go away, it could mean that water evaporates, and the word “seems” doesn’t mean it is actually happening. “Skin gains strength” is a strange claim that might lead you to believe it will build collagen or appear more taut, but it could really mean just about anything you want it to mean. That’s the art of cosmetic ad copy.

Now, back to sirtuins. Sirtuins are proteins that are involved in regulating biological processes by controlling the chain of events that cause these processes to occur, which is why they’re often referred to as information regulators. The anti-aging connection has to do with their potential to regulate cellular processes responsible for aging. It is believed that if certain sirtuins can be modified to work against the mechanisms of aging that the results might be visible on skin: think fewer wrinkles, less sagging, and greater resiliency. Although sirtuin manipulation has no research showing it can affect wrinkles, that didn’t stop Clinique from jumping on the youthful skin connection and parlaying the research about sirtuins and degenerative diseases into skin-care products. And what about all of Clinique’s other “de-agers” that don’t contain sirtuins? Are they of lesser value for skin because they’re behind the times? Should Clinique stop selling those?

What seems promising is that topical application of specific sirtuins derived from yeast (in this case Saccharomyces lysate) and the antioxidant resveratrol (in this case from the root of the plant Polygonum cuspidatum) seem to have a protective effect on skin in the presence of oxidative and ultraviolet light stress. However, more research is needed before we’d suggest anyone run out and look for products that increase sirtuin activity in their skin. Plus, we don’t know the risk associated with manipulating sirtuins, whether they might have negative side effects.

The problem is twofold. First, there is limited research showing how much and what type of sirtuin is needed topically to cause desirable cellular changes leading to younger looking skin. Plus, the bioavailability of a topically applied source of sirtuins is questionable given that we don’t know how efficiently they penetrate intact skin. (Testing skin cells in a lab setting with concentrated doses of ingredients that stimulate sirtuins is an entirely different story from actual use.)

Second, and an even bigger concern, is that whenever normal cellular processes are manipulated, you run the risk of causing a potential overproliferation of cells. In other words, how would the sirtuin-influenced cells know when too much of a good thing becomes a health-threatening problem? How long is too long to keep skin cells active? How much manipulation of biological processes starts a cascading negative chain of events that could lead to unwanted consequences such as cancer (Sources: Current Medicinal Chemistry, 2008, pages 1887–1899; Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, June 2007, pages 14–19; Nature Reviews: Drug Discovery, June 2006, pages 493–506).

As has become standard for Clinique, this daytime moisturizer with sunscreen includes reliable UVA protection (from titanium dioxide, though a higher percentage would be preferred) and is loaded with antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and, to a lesser degree, skin-identical substances. Unfortunately, jar packaging won’t keep the majority of these state-of-the-art ingredients stable during use. Youth Surge’s sunscreen is the only “age decelerating” effect you can rely on, but we’d advise you to look for equally impressive formulas in better packaging. If you decide to try this anyway, it is best for dry to very dry skin. Those with combination skin (meaning oily and dry areas) will find this to be too emollient for their oily areas—and sunscreen needs to be applied all over.

Claims

Leveraging Sirtuin technology, Clinique science uses youth-extending agents to create a daily moisturizer with visible effects. Lines and wrinkles seem to evaporate, replaced by plump, vibrant skin alive with collagen and elastin. Skin gains strength over environmental agers. Looks younger, longer.

Ingredients

Active: Octinoxate: (7.5%), Octisalate (3.5%), Titanium Dioxide (1.2%), Other: Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Jojoba Butter, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Barley Extract, St. Paul’s Wort Extract, Wheat Germ Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Birch Bark Extract, Algae Extract, Polyethylene, Coleus Barbatus Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Potato Starch Modified, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Asrotcaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Coffea Robusta Seed Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Tangerine Peel Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate/VP Copolymer, Sorbitol, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Caffeine, Creatine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Isonicotinamide, PEG-100 Stearate, C12-15 Alcohols, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Aminoguanidine Hcl, Polysilicone-11, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium RNA, Trehalose, Sodium DNA, Adenosine Phosphate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Disodium NADH, Methicone, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Decarboxy Carnosine HCL, Glycine, Hydroxyproline, Proline, Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Phytosphingosine, Potassium Sulfate, Alumina, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Brand Overview

Clinique At-A-Glance

Strengths: A few excellent moisturizers and serums; excellent sunscreens; very good cleansers and eye makeup removers; unique mattifying products; impressive selection of foundations, good concealers; some remarkable mascaras; much-improved eyeshadows, lip colors and blush formulas.

Weaknesses: Bar soaps (which can clog pores and dull skin); alcohol-based toners; unfortunate choice of jar packaging for antioxidant-loaded moisturizers.

Estee Lauder-owned Clinique launched the concept of cosmetics being "allergy-tested," "hypoallergenic," "100% fragrance-free," and "dermatologist tested." Of those marketing claims, the only one with significance is "100% fragrance-free," which, for the most part, Clinique maintains (although it does add some fragrant extracts to a few products). Unfortunately, terms like “hypoallergenic” and “dermatologist tested” aren’t regulated by the FDA and can mean anything—thus, you still need to rely on the ingredient list to tell you whether their product contains any ingredients with the potential to irritate skin.

That inconvenient fact aside, Clinique is leading the way with cutting-edge, state-of-the-art moisturizers and serums, plus some formidable makeup and more than a few excellent sunscreens. While Clinique has some products that we see as missteps for reasons discussed in their reviews, more than ever, what they offer is quite good (just have realistic expectations, as some of their claims go beyond what their products are capable of).

Turning to makeup, Clinique continues to offer a vast palette of colors and textures, especially with their enormous selection of foundations—many of which feature effective sunscreens. Without a doubt, the numerous formulas offer something for every skin type and almost every skin color—though the blushes, eye makeup and lip colors are frequently not pigmented enough for deeper skin tones.

The bottom line is that, despite a few shortcomings, Clinique is one of the most comprehensive (and comparably affordable) department-store makeup lines, and it is completely understandable why they enjoy such broad appeal.

Note: Clinique is categorized as one that tests on animals because their products are sold in China. Although Clinique does not conduct animal testing for their products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brand’s state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law”. Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Beautypedia Team.

For more information about Clinique, call (800) 419-4041 or visit www.clinique.com

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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09.13.2013
Awesome!

Had a terrible reaction to another line ( not mentioning) after one week of trying it. The Cinique cream calmed and saved my skin in one day.. My skin feels better.. Dry peeling and rash is gone. No burning as with other products. Just awesome! I plan on staying with Clinique's "surge" line for evenings and daytime as well!

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Anonymous
09.12.2013
Overpowering Chemical Odor

I received two samples of Youth Surge SPF15 for dry/combo skin. This product seemed to have very average moisturizing effects, but the chemical odor was overpowering, which caused me to throw out both of these generous (.5 ounce) samples, after using them four times. I thought that perhaps the samples were not representative of the product, so I went back to the Clinique counter and "sniff-tested" their counter sample of the product. Same bad odor.

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Reviewed by
Diane W
01.15.2013
Love it!

I usually follow Paula's advice to the letter, but I was a fan of Youth Surge before I discovered Beautypedia. I gave up my use of it (both day and night versions) after discovery that the jar packaging rendered much of the ingredients unstable after a while. After trying MANY substitutions, I have reverted to using both day and night Youth Surge as I REALLY noticed the difference in my skin in terms of line visibility and dryness. I had already added Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Wrinkle Repair Serum for retinol and Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate to my nighttime routine to ensure that I am getting a good dose of stable antioxidants and skin repairing ingredients too! However, when using these products alongside substitutions for Youth Surge, my skin still noticed the loss of it. Now with it back as part of my routine, my skin appears to be glowing and line free again. Overall - I find it best for fine lines and dryness. I'd say good value too as a jar lasts me for several months. A winter favourite!

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