Ideal Resource Smoothing Retexturizing Radiance Cream

Price:
$90 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
8/27/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This is one of the better, though still overpriced, moisturizers from Darphin. Similar to other lightweight moisturizers Estee Lauder sells (Darphin is a Lauder-owned brand), this lightweight lotion contains a good mix of antioxidants, water-binding agents, and silicone for a silky-smooth feel.

Most of the plant extracts this contains have benefit for skin, although some, like fennel seed and hibiscus, pose a risk of irritation. They're present only in small amounts so likely won't be problematic, but overall this fragranced moisturizer isn't a top choice for those with extra-sensitive skin. It is well-suited for those with normal to combination skin, as the company suggests.

We're not sure what Darphin means by "mattifying mineral extracts," as those ingredients aren't indicated on the ingredient list—and not all minerals leave the skin matte. We're chalking that statement up to marketing mumbo-jumbo that you can look past, assuming you're OK with paying more than is necessary for a good, lightweight moisturizer.

Pros:
  • Lightweight, silky texture hydrates without feeling greasy.
  • Contains beneficial plant extracts.
  • Water-binding and soothing agents minimize signs of dryness.
Cons:
  • Far less expensive and better formulated options from other lines are available
  • Contains some fragrant plant extracts that pose a slight risk of irritation.
More Info:

The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

At the heart of this deliciously rich cream, a unique trio of flowers acting in synergy to help rebuild the vital resources of younger-looking skin. Their combined properties have the power to improve skin texture, revive complexion luminosity and smooth away lines.
Water\Aqua\Eau, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Boron Nitride, Olive Oil Decyl Esters, Sucrose Polystearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Betaine, Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul's Wort) Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Seed Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Centella Asiatica (Hydrocotyl) Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Caffeine, Cholesterol, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Oleic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Acrylic Acid/VP Crosspolymer, Squalene, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Methicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexylene Glycol, Trideceth-6, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Alcohol, Fragrance (Parfum), Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol.

From its beginnings as a spa line developed for French aestheticians in the late 1950s, Darphin's core belief is that beauty comes from inner balance and harmony of the body, mind, and soul. This vision was truly new decades ago, and while it sounds great as an image-enhancing philosophy, it never translated, either back then or now, into progressive products that will make a significant difference in the appearance of your skin. In fact, among all of the skin-care lines espousing natural ingredients and botanical extracts, Darphin is the least impressive, with inadequate, dated formulations. Close competitor (and forerunner) Clarins at least includes several daytime moisturizers with sunscreen and also offers a complete collection of sunscreens for the body. Not so with Darphin, whose sunscreen selection is limited at best. Apparently, inner balance involves putting your skin at risk for wrinkles, discolorations, sagging, and, potentially, cancer.

Estee Lauder acquired Darphin in 2003, but that investment has resulted in little improvement or change to this line, options that are desperately needed. Almost without exception, Darphin products are vastly overpriced for what you get. Many of them contain problematic ingredients or plants whose benefit for skin is unknown or merely anecdotal.

As you might expect, most of the anti-aging claims Darphin makes for its products stem from the exotic to commonplace plants and plant extracts they contain. Although it's appealing to think that familiar substances such as ginseng, sandalwood, and corn can firm skin and improve the signs of aging, they do no such thing. Adhering to Darphin's skin-care routines (all of which involve multiple products, most with redundant formulas) would leave skin vulnerable to sun damage, and the many fragrance components found in products throughout the line increase the chance that skin will suffer a phototoxic reaction when exposed to sunlight. Considering the premium prices of these products, that's a lot of potential for a literal and figurative burn!

For more information about Darphin Paris, owned by Estee Lauder, call (866) 880-4559 or visit www.darphhin.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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