08.27.2013
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Predermine Densifying Anti-Wrinkle Fluid
Rating
1.7 fl. oz. for $152
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:08.27.2013
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

This moisturizer is the lighter-weight version of Darphin's other Predermine Densifying Anti-Wrinkle Creams. Like those, the ingredient list for the Fluid seems to go on and on, including everything but the kitchen sink, but not all of those ingredients are good for the skin, and some are actually problematic.

At its core, this is a good moisturizer for normal to slightly dry or combination skin. Its mix of emollients, glycerin, antioxidants, and skin-repairing ingredients is mostly impressive, although this isn't a "quickly absorbed" formula as claimed.

Like the other Predermine Anti-Wrinkle moisturizers, this also contains fragrant plant extracts that are potentially irritating, as are the numerous fragrance ingredients, which we discuss in the More Info section. Those missteps keep this moisturizer from earning a higher rating.

You may not know that the spa-themed Darphin line is owned by Estee Lauder, so Darphin and Lauder moisturizers have much in common. The main differences are that the Darphin moisturizers tend to have stronger fragrances (which isn't to your skin's benefit) and tend to cost a lot more (perhaps reinforcing the notion that spa products are worth the splurge, yet that's rarely, if ever, the case; if anything, it's just the opposite because of the typical heavy use of fragrance). There's no reason to spend what Darphin is charging when there are less expensive, yet superior, options from Estee Lauder or Clinique, another Lauder-owned brand.

Pros:
  • Contains a good mix of ingredients for hydrating skin without being too heavy.
  • Some of the ingredients do have anti-aging benefits.
Cons:
  • Overpriced.
  • Amount of fragrant plants plus fragrance ingredients puts skin at risk of irritation.
More Info:

Daily use of Fragrant Products: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Claims

Ultra-light, firming and wrinkle-defying fluid with a powerful Peptide complex, Hyaluronic Acid spheres, Iris and Padina pavonica extracts helps reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles as it visibly densifies and firms skin for a plumper appearance. Quickly absorbed formula.

Ingredients

Water\Aqua\Eau, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Steareth-2, Glycerin, Steareth-21, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Hypnea Musciformis (Algae) Extract, Gellidiela Acerosa (Algae) Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Extract, Menyanthes Trifoliata (Buckbean) Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan), Phytic Acid, Benzophenone-4, Behenyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil. Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Malt Extract, Caffeine, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Beheneth-25, Yeast Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Acetyl Glucosamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Sodium Carbomer, Fragrance (Parfum), Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Citronellol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Red 4.

Brand Overview

Darphin Paris At-A-Glance

Strengths: Lauder's influence on this line has resulted in only a few improved products; there are some good cleansers; some worthwhile serums and moisturizers; a couple worthwhile masks and a good skin-lightening product that's remarkably similar to a less expensive option from Clinique (another Lauder-owned brand).

Weaknesses: Very expensive; no effective products to address acne or other types of breakouts; pervasive use of skin-irritating fragrant oils; only one sunscreen and it has problems; jar packaging for products that contain air- and light-sensitive ingredients.

From its beginnings as a spa line developed for French aestheticians in the late 1950s, Darphin's core belief is that beauty comes from inner balance and harmony of the body, mind, and soul. This vision was truly new decades ago, and while it sounds great as an image-enhancing philosophy, it never translated, either back then or now, into progressive products that will make a significant difference in the appearance of your skin. In fact, among all of the skin-care lines espousing natural ingredients and botanical extracts, Darphin is the least impressive, with inadequate, dated formulations. Close competitor (and forerunner) Clarins at least includes several daytime moisturizers with sunscreen and also offers a complete collection of sunscreens for the body. Not so with Darphin, whose sunscreen selection is limited at best. Apparently, inner balance involves putting your skin at risk for wrinkles, discolorations, sagging, and, potentially, cancer.

Estee Lauder acquired Darphin in 2003, but that investment has resulted in little improvement or change to this line, options that are desperately needed. Almost without exception, Darphin products are vastly overpriced for what you get. Many of them contain problematic ingredients or plants whose benefit for skin is unknown or merely anecdotal.

As you might expect, most of the anti-aging claims Darphin makes for its products stem from the exotic to commonplace plants and plant extracts they contain. Although it's appealing to think that familiar substances such as ginseng, sandalwood, and corn can firm skin and improve the signs of aging, they do no such thing. Adhering to Darphin's skin-care routines (all of which involve multiple products, most with redundant formulas) would leave skin vulnerable to sun damage, and the many fragrance components found in products throughout the line increase the chance that skin will suffer a phototoxic reaction when exposed to sunlight. Considering the premium prices of these products, that's a lot of potential for a literal and figurative burn!

For more information about Darphin Paris, owned by Estee Lauder, call (866) 880-4559 or visit www.darphhin.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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