Predermine Firming Wrinkle Repair Serum

by Darphin Paris   Predermine
Price:
$176 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:
8/27/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This rich, oil-based serum has a lot in common with moisturizers from La Mer, which is understandable given that both La Mer and Darphin are owned by Estee Lauder. Although Predermine Firming Wrinkle Repair Serum is labeled a "serum," it feels more like a moisturizer. Unfortunately, because it has the same drawbacks as La Mer's Creme de la Mer, it's not recommended.

Aside from the ridiculously high price, the ingredients that keep this product from deserving a place in your skin-care routine, at any price, are lime, eucalyptus oil, and the preservative blend of methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone. Also known by its trade name Kathon CG, this preservative blend is known to be sensitizing and generally best to avoid in leave-on products (Sources: Contact Dermatitis, November 2001, pages 257–264; and European Journal of Dermatology, March 1999, pages 144–160).

As for the lime and eucalyptus, both are potent skin irritants that aren't the least bit antiwrinkle. Eucalyptus has antimicrobial and antifungal activity, but its risks to skin far outweigh those benefits (Sources: www.naturaldatabase.com; Basic Clinical Pharmacology and Toxicology, June 2006, pages 575–581).

This product has some intriguing ingredients for dry skin, but between the fragrant irritants, potentially sensitizing preservative system, and sky-high price, it's not worth the investment. For what this costs, you could put together a brilliant anti-aging routine that treats skin gently and reduces signs of aging!

Pros:
  • Contains some beneficial ingredients for dry skin.
Cons:
  • Formula contains a high amount of two known skin irritants.
  • The preservative system is not recommended for use in leave-on products.
More Info:

Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Innovative serum helps erase the appearance of wrinkles and restores youthfully firm, smooth skin with breakthrough SMART FIRMING SYSTEM™ technology. It helps rekindle skin's youth by reactivating natural production of collagen and elastin.

Seaweed (Algae) Extract, Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Lime (Citrus Aurantifolia) Extract, Microcrystalline Wax (Cera Microcristallina), Lanolin Alcohol, Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Oil, Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus) Oil, Magnesium Sulfate, Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Seeds, Alfalfa (Medicago Sativa) Seeds, Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seeds, Powdered Almonds (Prunus Dulcis), Sodium, Potassium, Copper, Calcium, Magnesium, And Zinc Gluconate, Paraffin, Vitamin E Succinate, Niacin, Beta-Carotene, Decyl Oleate, Aluminum Stearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium Stearate, Panthenol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum).

From its beginnings as a spa line developed for French aestheticians in the late 1950s, Darphin's core belief is that beauty comes from inner balance and harmony of the body, mind, and soul. This vision was truly new decades ago, and while it sounds great as an image-enhancing philosophy, it never translated, either back then or now, into progressive products that will make a significant difference in the appearance of your skin. In fact, among all of the skin-care lines espousing natural ingredients and botanical extracts, Darphin is the least impressive, with inadequate, dated formulations. Close competitor (and forerunner) Clarins at least includes several daytime moisturizers with sunscreen and also offers a complete collection of sunscreens for the body. Not so with Darphin, whose sunscreen selection is limited at best. Apparently, inner balance involves putting your skin at risk for wrinkles, discolorations, sagging, and, potentially, cancer.

Estee Lauder acquired Darphin in 2003, but that investment has resulted in little improvement or change to this line, options that are desperately needed. Almost without exception, Darphin products are vastly overpriced for what you get. Many of them contain problematic ingredients or plants whose benefit for skin is unknown or merely anecdotal.

As you might expect, most of the anti-aging claims Darphin makes for its products stem from the exotic to commonplace plants and plant extracts they contain. Although it's appealing to think that familiar substances such as ginseng, sandalwood, and corn can firm skin and improve the signs of aging, they do no such thing. Adhering to Darphin's skin-care routines (all of which involve multiple products, most with redundant formulas) would leave skin vulnerable to sun damage, and the many fragrance components found in products throughout the line increase the chance that skin will suffer a phototoxic reaction when exposed to sunlight. Considering the premium prices of these products, that's a lot of potential for a literal and figurative burn!

For more information about Darphin Paris, owned by Estee Lauder, call (866) 880-4559 or visit www.darphhin.com.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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