07.28.2011
0
DDF - Doctor's Dermatologic Formula
Ultra-Lite Peel, with Elm Extract
Rating
1 fl. oz. for $42
Category:Skin Care > Anti-Acne Products > BHA
Last Updated:07.28.2011
Jar Packaging:False
pH:
Tested on animals:Yes
Overview
Ultra-Lite Peel, with Elm Extract is designed as a leave-on peel product for sensitive skin, and the chief exfoliant is arginine. Arginine is an amino acid that functions as an antioxidant and may have wound-healing properties, but there is no research showing it to be an exfoliant (Sources: Journal of Surgical Research, June 2002, pages 35–42; Nitric Oxide, May 2002, pages 313–318; European Surgical Research, January-April 2002, pages 53–60; and www.naturaldatabase.com). The exfoliant in this product is approximately 1% salicylic acid, and the pH is low enough for it to function in that manner. However, alcohol precedes it on the list and makes this a less-appealing BHA option due to the kickback from irritation. Elm extract has no research establishing its benefit for skin when applied topically.
Claims
A gentle leave-on peel formulated with effective exfoliating and anti-inflammatory ingredients known to be beneficial for sensitive skin, those irritated by traditional peels or for day-to-day maintenance. Contains Arginine Glycolate and Elm Extract to exfoliate, refine and encourage healthy cell renewal. Skin is left vibrant, smooth and visibly younger looking.
Ingredients
Water, Arginine, Sd Alcohol 40, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Salicylic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Methylparaben, Dmdm Hydantoin, Allantoin, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Ulmus Campestris (Elm) Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Brand Overview

DDF At-A-Glance

Strengths: Several good water-soluble cleansers; excellent Photo-Age sunscreens and every DDF sunscreen includes sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients; some truly state-of-the-art moisturizers and serums; a few good AHA and skin-lightening options; a good benzoyl peroxide topical disinfectant.

Weaknesses: Expensive; products designed for sensitive skin tend to contain one or more known problematic ingredients; several irritating products based on alcohol, menthol, or problematic plant extracts; more than a handful of average moisturizers, many in jar packaging.

This skin-care company's Web site has it right with the statement that "before the beauty world discovered dermatologic skincare brands, there was DDF." Launched in 1991, well before it became common practice for "known" dermatologists to create their own skin-care lines, pioneering dermatologist Dr. Howard Sobel began and is still behind this brand. This is a long-standing line that has the backing of a dermatologist (and later that of nutritional consultant Elaine Linker), so you would expect DDF to be just what the doctor ordered. In some respects, it is. However, more often than not, products from dermatologists are just as prone to outlandish claims, exorbitant prices, and use of unproven ingredients as products from any other cosmetics line. A founder's medical background isn't a guarantee that every product he or she creates will do exactly what it claims or even be sensibly formulated. In that sense, DDF falters more than it succeeds. Sobel's credibility for creating treatment-based skin-care products is diminished when inappropriate ingredients (alcohol, menthol, and others) are included in products positioned as prestige products with a medicinal slant. Still, there are some very impressive options available (particularly in the moisturizer and serum categories) that, price notwithstanding, are worthy of consideration.

It will be curious to see what the future holds for this line, as its ownership has recently changed hands. Consumer product giant Procter & Gamble bought DDF in 2007 to expand the line's global reach, but has since sold it to UK-based Designer Parfums. Designer Parfums says it intends to bring Dr. Sobel on board to play a larger role in the company's marketing and development of both current and future products. Sobel himself says he looks forward to "Playing an active role in rebuilding this brand." (Source: www.wwd.com) We'll have to see exactly what that means as DDF moves ahead!

For more information about DDF, call 1-800-818-9770 or visit www.ddfskincare.com/.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

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