Deep Wrinkle Peptide Eye Creme

by derma e  
Price:
$27.50 - 0.5 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Eye Moisturizers
Last Updated:
10/31/2014
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
No

This product is similar to but more emollient than derma e’s Deep Wrinkle Peptide Moisturizer, and you get less product for more money. Peptides have skin-conditioning benefits and theoretically cell-communicating ability, but how much activity and effect they have on collagen production is unknown. And for certain peptides don’t work like Botox to eliminate wrinkles and expression lines, nor can peptides discourage new wrinkles, especially if you’re not applying a well formulated sunscreen daily, even when the sun isn’t shining. Since most eye creams don’t contain sunscreen, you’re actually doing your skin a disservice by using these types of products during the day. Yes, you can follow with a moisturizer that contains sunscreen, but why not just use that around your eyes instead, and skip the eye cream?

We would say this is a good product to try if you’re curious to see what peptides can do for your skin, but the jar packaging is a disappointment but it won’t keep any of the ingredients stable once the product is opened. That’s especially disappointing for the antioxidants and delicate peptides this eye cream contains.

More Info:

Why You May Not Need an Eye Cream

Most eye creams aren't necessary. That's either because they are poorly formulated, contain nothing special for the eye area, or come in packaging that won't keep key ingredients stable. Just because the product is labeled as an eye cream doesn't mean it's good for your eye area; in fact, many can actually make matters worse.

There is much you can do to improve signs of aging around your eyes. Any product loaded with antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, skin-lightening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and effective emollients will work wonders and those ingredients don't have to come from a product labeled as an eye cream.

You would be shocked how many eye creams lack even the most basic ingredients to help skin. For example, most eye creams don't contain sunscreen. During the day that is a serious problem because it leaves the skin around your eyes vulnerable to sun damage and this absolutely will make dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles worse!

Whatever product you put around your eye area, regardless of what it is labeled, must be well formulated and appropriate for the skin type around your eyes! That may mean you need an eye cream, but you may also do just as well applying your regular facial moisturizer around your eyes.

Visibly smooth the appearance of even the deepest lines, wrinkles and crow's feet with this revolutionary double-action eye crème that contains two of the most powerful and effective peptides that bio-science has to offer. Peptide Matrixyl® synthe'6® tells the skin to synthesize new key components such as collagen and to restructure itself. Peptide Argireline® helps relax facial muscles, smooth wrinkles, and discourage the formation of new lines.

Purified Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl synthe'6®), Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Pinus Pinaster (Pycnogenol) Bark Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Organic Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract* (.1%), Organic Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract* (.1%), Organic Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil* (.1%), Allantoin, Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Oxide, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

"Formulated for results" and "We're serious about skin care" are phrases you'll see throughout the Derma E line—that and a heavy accent on all things natural. In business since 1984, this California-based, family-owned skin-care company's products are often seen in health food stores. We suspect the numerous questions we've been asked about the Derma E line are tied not only to their use of natural ingredients, but also to their emphasis on antioxidants, which they include in almost every product. In many cases, there are antioxidants aplenty; however, more often than not, the choice of jar packaging spoils the benefit the antioxidants Derma E chose could provide (air-tight packaging is critical because antioxidants deteriorate in the presence of air).

More so than any other line weve reviewed so far, where packaging is critical to ingredient efficacy and stability, Derma E has seemingly turned a blind eye to this glaring error. Because of that, there are very few products to extol or recommend, even though the line is priced fairly and some of the products have good formulations. But, just as you shouldn't eat food that no longer has any nutritional properties, the same goes for skin care, why bother if your skin isn't getting what it needs to be healthy?

The company's founders talk openly about their commitment to formulating quality products, often using proprietary ingredients (meaning ingredients unique to Derma E). Yet a quick look at the ingredients on the label shows that isn't true. Even if it were true, the notion that you would be getting something better for skin is sheer nonsense. There are lots of brilliant ingredients for skin available in the cosmetics world, and there is no single company that has a secret lurking in its laboratory that is a must for skin. It can be a very compelling story unless you know better, and if you don't already know better, you will after reading the reviews. Product after product either disappoints or comes in below average based on packaging issues or on problematic natural ingredients, the claims for which are based on folklore and anecdotal experience, not on solid science.

It all gets rather muddled where Derma E is concerned because several of their anti-aging products do contain some interesting peptides and impressive amounts of antioxidants. In many respects, the antioxidants chosen have reliable track records when it comes to their skin-care benefits. But again, jar packaging sabotages these performance-based ingredients to the point that it's difficult to take anything else the company does seriously. After all, if they can't get this fundamental right, what's the point of continually talking up their commitment to results-oriented products?

It doesn't seem that sun protection is very high on Derma E's priority list either. You'll find moisturizers and eye creams galore, including many with antiwrinkle and skin-firming claims—but only one sunscreen. One. In the entire line. And, surprise, it doesn’t contain natural sunscreen agents, at least not entirely. It never ceases to amaze me when "natural" product companies choose synthetic sunscreen actives when there are natural alternatives such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Synthetic sunscreens are perfectly fine, but if you're going to shout natural from the rooftops, why are you using synthetic sunscreen actives? Plus, any line that touts their anti-aging, antiwrinkle prowess should have more than one sunscreen. Walking away from the store after buying products only from this line is a guarantee you will be cheating your skin.

A common falsehood, perpetuated by Derma E and by many other cosmetics companies, is that their products are "natural" (whatever that truly means). Rest assured that that's about as probable as sandy, warm beaches in Antarctica (or a snowball in Hades). Derma E products contain many natural ingredients, but plenty of synthetic ingredients have been cast in major or supporting formulary roles. For example, Linda Miles, one of Derma E's founders, has stated that the company won't use the natural version of alpha lipoic acid because it is "a butcher house by-product," meaning it's derived from animals. She admits the company uses synthetic alpha lipoic acid, however, and she must be unaware that alpha lipoic acid need not be derived from meat; it also can be derived from spinach, carrots, broccoli, potatoes, yams, and yeast, all of which are very natural and, of course, not derived from animal flesh (Sources: www.naturaldatabase.com; and The Rose Sheet, May 26, 2008, page 4).

Miles also admitted that Derma E has struggled to find a good preservative system to replace the synthetic ones they currently use. That's not surprising, as it's an issue that any line that wants to go natural must deal with; the reality is that there are no natural preservatives that work as well in low amounts as the synthetic options.

We could go on about Derma E's claims in terms of what they do and don't use and will and won't do, but you've heard it all before from other natural lines. As is usually the case, there are some standout products to consider from Derma E. If the company overhauled its packaging to improve antioxidant stability, the handful of products would become a basket's worth, but there is no word on whether such a change is happening or even in the works.

For more information about Derma E, call (800) 521-3342 or visit www.dermae.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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