03.12.2015
0
2
Clear Start Breakout Clearing Overnight Treatment
Rating
2 fl. oz. for $19
Category:Skin Care > Sensitive Skin Products > Blemish/Acne Treatments
Last Updated:03.12.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

This silky, lightweight treatment is supposed to be your overnight answer for preventing breakouts before they surface and lead to a series of bad skin days. It contains 2% salicylic acid as the active ingredient, but the pH of this product is too high for exfoliation to occur. Even if the pH was within range, the base formula contains camphor, which is exceedingly irritating and will likely increase oil production in the pore.

Some of the plant extracts have antibacterial action, but, with the exception of tea tree oil, none of them have convincing research proving their effectiveness against acne-causing bacteria (Sources: Phytomedicine, August 2007, pages 508–516; Pharmazie, March 2005, pages 208–211; and African Journal of Medicine and Medical Sciences, September 1995, pages 269–273). As for the tea tree oil being useful, the amount this product contains is too low for it to have a positive impact on breakouts.

Pros:
  • Contains some potentially helpful plant extracts.
  • Lightweight, silky texture.
Cons:
  • The salicylic acid cannot function as an exfoliant because this product's pH is too high.
  • Formula contains several irritating fragrant plant oils.
  • Camphor is a strong skin irritant that may increase oil production at the base of the pores
More Info:

Applying irritating ingredients to oily skin stimulates excess oil production at the base of the pores, so skin ends up being more oily and pores become (or stay) enlarged. If you want to see improvements in oily skin, the best approach is to treat your skin gently with effective products designed to absorb excess oil, exfoliate inside the pore, and help normalize pore function (Sources: Clinical Dermatology, September-October 2004, pages 360–366; and Dermatology, January 2003, pages 17–23).

Note: This product was formerly named Clean Start Bedtime for Breakouts.

Claims

This invisible treatment absorbs quickly then works all night to fight breakouts. Rest easy as it purifies to ensure you awake with less congestion, fewer breakouts and reduced redness.

Ingredients

Active ingredient: Salicylic Acid 2.00%. Other ingredients: Water, Isohexadecane, PEG-32, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Camphor, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root, Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Zinc Acetate, Potassium Jojobate, Propanediol, PVM/MA Copolymer, Ceteareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 60, Jojoba Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol.

Brand Overview

Dermalogica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a unique skin-lightening product; a couple of commendable moisturizers, one with stabilized vitamin C.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; Clean Start and MediBac lines are particularly disappointing; the SPF products tend to be mediocre to poor.

Dermalogica's name implies a logical relationship to dermatology, which makes it sound as if you are getting serious skin care. The subtitle on their products is even more commanding: "A Skin Care System Researched and Developed by the International Dermal Institute." But what is the International Dermal Institute, you ask? Are there any dermatologists there? Apparently not: The International Dermal Institute is a Dermalogica-owned school for aestheticians who want an education beyond what is required for their cosmetology license, and the classes are taught by aestheticians.

Does the professional atmosphere of the school associated with Dermalogica mean better products? The proof is in the pudding, and this pudding is, for the most part, just Jell-O, not chocolate mousse. A company so concerned with skin-care education should be ashamed of itself for offering so many products that damage skin with known irritants and, more egregiously, offering so many sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients. Dermalogica's education-oriented, serious-minded, and clinical positioning doesn’t mesh with the majority of their products, and is on par with tobacco company executives teaching an aerobics class.

According to company history, the reason Dermalogica products came to be was that founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skin-care lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients that she believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems. If anything, quite the opposite is true. Further, if Dermalogica's founders were so concerned about potentially or definitively harmful ingredients, why do their products contain so many of them? Where is the research proving that lavender oil, camphor, balm mint, arnica, ginger oil, and citrus oils are helpful for skin?

For more information about Dermalogica, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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