03.10.2014
0
Dermalogica
Clear Start Breakout Clearing Emergency Spot Fix
Rating
0.3 fl. oz. for $19
Category:Skin Care > Sensitive Skin Products > Blemish/Acne Treatments
Last Updated:03.10.2014
Jar Packaging:False
pH:
Tested on animals:No
Overview

Could it be that Dermalogica is finally coming around on their use of fragrant oils in their skin-care products? That seems to be the case with this anti-acne treatment lotion medicated with 5% benzoyl peroxide—the gold standard topical disinfectant for killing acne-causing bacteria.

Although this product doesn't contain Dermalogica's usual offenders such as lavender or citrus oils, it does contain the extract form of lavender. This poses a slight risk of irritation but is definitely less likely to be problematic compared to the oil form.

We're glad that this formula includes antioxidant green tea plus some very good anti-irritants, including a licorice derivative. This could be considered fragrance-free because "fragrance" isn't listed; however, the lavender contains fragrance ingredients that lend scent to this product.

Overall, this is a good though slightly pricey anti-acne option for all skin types except extra-sensitive.

Pros:
  • Medicated with gold-standard anti-acne ingredient benzoyl peroxide.
  • Lightweight gel-like lotion formula is suitable for all skin types.
  • Contains a very good mix of antioxidants and soothing ingredients.
Cons:
  • Lavender adds fragrance which poses a risk of irritation.

Note: This product was formerly named Clean Start Hit the Spot.

Claims

Dab this powerful concentrated gel directly onto individual breakouts: formula wipes out pimple-causing bacteria deep within the pore to clear your breakout fast.

Ingredients

Active ingredient: Benzoyl Peroxide 5%. Other ingredients: Water / Aqua / Eau, PEG-8, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Oleanolic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 80, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol.

Brand Overview

Dermalogica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a unique skin-lightening product; a couple of commendable moisturizers, one with stabilized vitamin C.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; Clean Start and MediBac lines are particularly disappointing; the SPF products tend to be mediocre to poor.

Dermalogica's name implies a logical relationship to dermatology, which makes it sound as if you are getting serious skin care. The subtitle on their products is even more commanding: "A Skin Care System Researched and Developed by the International Dermal Institute." But what is the International Dermal Institute, you ask? Are there any dermatologists there? Apparently not: The International Dermal Institute is a Dermalogica-owned school for aestheticians who want an education beyond what is required for their cosmetology license, and the classes are taught by aestheticians.

Does the professional atmosphere of the school associated with Dermalogica mean better products? The proof is in the pudding, and this pudding is, for the most part, just Jell-O, not chocolate mousse. A company so concerned with skin-care education should be ashamed of itself for offering so many products that damage skin with known irritants and, more egregiously, offering so many sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients. Dermalogica's education-oriented, serious-minded, and clinical positioning doesn’t mesh with the majority of their products, and is on par with tobacco company executives teaching an aerobics class.

According to company history, the reason Dermalogica products came to be was that founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skin-care lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients that she believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems. If anything, quite the opposite is true. Further, if Dermalogica's founders were so concerned about potentially or definitively harmful ingredients, why do their products contain so many of them? Where is the research proving that lavender oil, camphor, balm mint, arnica, ginger oil, and citrus oils are helpful for skin?

For more information about Dermalogica, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

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