03.18.2015
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Clearing Skin Wash
Rating
8.4 fl. oz. for $35
Category:Skin Care > Cleansers (including Cleansing Cloths) > Cleansers/Soaps
Last Updated:03.18.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

This water-soluble cleanser for acne-prone skin makes the same mistake as most anti-acne products: It contains drying and irritating ingredients that make acne and its resulting redness worse instead of better.

Of chief concern here are the numerous irritating plant extracts in this product, plus the menthol and camphor. All of these can cause your skin extra problems such as redness and increased oil production, because that’s what irritating ingredients do to skin. Plus, irritation hurts your skin’s healing process (which won’t help acne) and hinders healthy collagen production. In addition, the numerous irritants in this cleanser are a distinct problem to use around the eyes. Dermalogica included some soothing plant extracts, too, but they’re of little use to your skin when joined by potent irritants and a drying cleansing agent.

The amount of salicylic acid is wasted in a cleanser, because its brief contact with skin won’t be enough to impart a benefit. A leave-on product with salicylic acid is the best way to go if you’re struggling with breakouts.

Claims

A naturally-foaming cleanser that is the perfect start to around-the- clock control of breakouts, comedones and excess surface oils. Contains no artificial fragrance or color.

Ingredients

Active ingredients: Salicylic Acid .50%. Other ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Angelica Archangelica Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Allium Sativum (Garlic) Bulb Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicas Root Extract, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Lactic Acid, Algae Extract, Menthol, Sodium PCA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Camphor, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Benzyl PCA, Disodium EDTA Copper, Citral, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol.

Brand Overview

Dermalogica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a unique skin-lightening product; a couple of commendable moisturizers, one with stabilized vitamin C.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; Clean Start and MediBac lines are particularly disappointing; the SPF products tend to be mediocre to poor.

Dermalogica's name implies a logical relationship to dermatology, which makes it sound as if you are getting serious skin care. The subtitle on their products is even more commanding: "A Skin Care System Researched and Developed by the International Dermal Institute." But what is the International Dermal Institute, you ask? Are there any dermatologists there? Apparently not: The International Dermal Institute is a Dermalogica-owned school for aestheticians who want an education beyond what is required for their cosmetology license, and the classes are taught by aestheticians.

Does the professional atmosphere of the school associated with Dermalogica mean better products? The proof is in the pudding, and this pudding is, for the most part, just Jell-O, not chocolate mousse. A company so concerned with skin-care education should be ashamed of itself for offering so many products that damage skin with known irritants and, more egregiously, offering so many sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients. Dermalogica's education-oriented, serious-minded, and clinical positioning doesn’t mesh with the majority of their products, and is on par with tobacco company executives teaching an aerobics class.

According to company history, the reason Dermalogica products came to be was that founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skin-care lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients that she believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems. If anything, quite the opposite is true. Further, if Dermalogica's founders were so concerned about potentially or definitively harmful ingredients, why do their products contain so many of them? Where is the research proving that lavender oil, camphor, balm mint, arnica, ginger oil, and citrus oils are helpful for skin?

For more information about Dermalogica, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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