03.26.2015
2
5
Skin Hydrating Masque
Rating
2.5 fl. oz. for $40
Category:Skin Care > Facial Masks > Moisturizing/Firming Masks
Last Updated:03.26.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

Skin Hydrating Masque isn't hydrating, not with two types of clay as main ingredients! What a misnamed product! The formula contains a good deal of plant oil, but why combine so much plant oil with absorbent clays? Doing so makes for a mask that won't be as helpful to oily skin as it could be yet it's also not moisturizing enough for dry skin. This also contains a mix of beneficial and potentially irritating plant extracts, and for certain the menthol's cooling effect is a skin irritant. Indeed, menthol is categorized as a counter-irritant.

Counter-irritants are used to induce local inflammation for the purpose of relieving inflammation in deeper or adjacent tissues. In other words, they substitute one kind of inflammation for another, which is never good for skin. Irritation or inflammation, no matter what causes it or how it happens, impairs the skin’s immune and healing response (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, November–December 2000, pages 358–371). And although your skin may not show it or doesn’t react in an irritated fashion, if you apply irritants to your skin the damage is still taking place and is ongoing, so it adds up over time (Source: Skin Research and Technology, November 2001, pages 227–237).

Claims

A hydrating, oil-free gel that restores critical moisture to dry skin without unwanted oiliness, helping to restore suppleness and reduce the appearance of fine, dry lines.

Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Kaolin, Bentonite, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Silt, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15, Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Bisabolol, Panthenyl Triacetate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnolia Kobus Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract, Thujopsis Dolabrata Branch Extract, Montmorillonite, Taraktogenos Kurzii Seed Oil, Naringenin, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Capryloyl Glycine, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Palm Glycerides, Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Arachidonic Acid, Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Menthol, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Zinc Oxide (CI 77947)

Brand Overview

Dermalogica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a unique skin-lightening product; a couple of commendable moisturizers, one with stabilized vitamin C.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; Clean Start and MediBac lines are particularly disappointing; the SPF products tend to be mediocre to poor.

Dermalogica's name implies a logical relationship to dermatology, which makes it sound as if you are getting serious skin care. The subtitle on their products is even more commanding: "A Skin Care System Researched and Developed by the International Dermal Institute." But what is the International Dermal Institute, you ask? Are there any dermatologists there? Apparently not: The International Dermal Institute is a Dermalogica-owned school for aestheticians who want an education beyond what is required for their cosmetology license, and the classes are taught by aestheticians.

Does the professional atmosphere of the school associated with Dermalogica mean better products? The proof is in the pudding, and this pudding is, for the most part, just Jell-O, not chocolate mousse. A company so concerned with skin-care education should be ashamed of itself for offering so many products that damage skin with known irritants and, more egregiously, offering so many sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients. Dermalogica's education-oriented, serious-minded, and clinical positioning doesn’t mesh with the majority of their products, and is on par with tobacco company executives teaching an aerobics class.

According to company history, the reason Dermalogica products came to be was that founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skin-care lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients that she believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems. If anything, quite the opposite is true. Further, if Dermalogica's founders were so concerned about potentially or definitively harmful ingredients, why do their products contain so many of them? Where is the research proving that lavender oil, camphor, balm mint, arnica, ginger oil, and citrus oils are helpful for skin?

For more information about Dermalogica, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

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11.06.2014
MISTAKE REVIEW BASED ON INGREDIENTS WRONG

PAULAS CHOICE YOU HAVE THE WRONG INGREDIENTS LISTED!!!! I HAVE THIS MASK AND YOUR LIST AND REVIEW IS WRONG!!!! IT DOED NOT HAVE CLAY REWRITE YOUR REVIEW BASED ON THE CORRECT ACTUAL INGREDIENTS. THANK YOU!!!!

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Reviewed by
Angela P.
11.06.2014
Paula's Choice Research Team Response

Hi there! You may have an older version of this mask. The ingredient list on our site exactly matches what Dermalogica lists on their site.

—Admin
10.23.2014
Very refreshing soothing mask!

Anyway I love this mask! It is very spot bun and hydrating without being greasy! I use it if I feel dehydrated or had too much sun, I leave it on longer than recommended while I have a hydrating mask in my hair as well. After relaxing in a robe for about an hour I rinse off and my skin feels brand new!

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Reviewed by
Angela P.
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