12.31.2014
6
9
Ultracalming Cleanser
Rating
8.4 fl. oz. for $35
Category:Skin Care > Cleansers (including Cleansing Cloths) > Cleansers/Soaps
Last Updated:12.31.2014
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

Ultracalming Cleanser contains several problematic fragrant plant extracts known to cause irritation, which prevents this otherwise well-formulated cleansing lotion from being ultra-calming or recommended. This also contains some soothing plant extracts, but their benefit will be lost because the irritating ingredients get in the way of this cleanser being even slightly calming. This would be a big mistake if you have sensitive or rosacea-affected skin.

Claims

An extremely gentle cleansing gel/cream that can either be rinsed off or gently removed with tissue or The Sponge Cloth. Helps combat skin sensitivity caused by exposure to pollution, harsh climate, stress, hormonal imbalance, irritating cosmetic products and other environmental influences.

Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol , Hydroxyphenyl , ropamidobenzoic Acid, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Fumaric Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Panthenol, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, rosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Disodium EDTA.

Brand Overview

Dermalogica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a unique skin-lightening product; a couple of commendable moisturizers, one with stabilized vitamin C.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; Clean Start and MediBac lines are particularly disappointing; the SPF products tend to be mediocre to poor.

Dermalogica's name implies a logical relationship to dermatology, which makes it sound as if you are getting serious skin care. The subtitle on their products is even more commanding: "A Skin Care System Researched and Developed by the International Dermal Institute." But what is the International Dermal Institute, you ask? Are there any dermatologists there? Apparently not: The International Dermal Institute is a Dermalogica-owned school for aestheticians who want an education beyond what is required for their cosmetology license, and the classes are taught by aestheticians.

Does the professional atmosphere of the school associated with Dermalogica mean better products? The proof is in the pudding, and this pudding is, for the most part, just Jell-O, not chocolate mousse. A company so concerned with skin-care education should be ashamed of itself for offering so many products that damage skin with known irritants and, more egregiously, offering so many sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients. Dermalogica's education-oriented, serious-minded, and clinical positioning doesn’t mesh with the majority of their products, and is on par with tobacco company executives teaching an aerobics class.

According to company history, the reason Dermalogica products came to be was that founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skin-care lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients that she believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems. If anything, quite the opposite is true. Further, if Dermalogica's founders were so concerned about potentially or definitively harmful ingredients, why do their products contain so many of them? Where is the research proving that lavender oil, camphor, balm mint, arnica, ginger oil, and citrus oils are helpful for skin?

For more information about Dermalogica, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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02.11.2015
Love the cleanser

I'm an Esthetician and love this cleanser.I'm very sensitive and this did a great deal calming down my skin. I know many people with severe inflammation and this cleanser helped drastically. I love this site, BUT you talk about plant extracts being irritating? Yes, anything can irritate some people. Hense why doing a DIY avacado mask might not be good but using a product with it can be great for some. Without plant extracts, you might as well use Cerave, which has no active ingredients.

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Reviewed by
Megan A
02.09.2015
Incredible cleanser and eye makeup remover!

It's fairly obvious that the product analyzers at paula's choice never touch a large majority of skin care products & solely review them on glancing at the ingredients & picking out the most "irritating" ingredients based on their own ideas & research to berate it. That being said, this has been my cleanser for over a year now & I love it. It's creamy & gentle, helped calm down my hormonal acne while keeping my skin hydrated, great for removing all eye makeup, & can be used on the body as well!

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
02.09.2015
Beautypedia Team Response

Thanks for your feedback! We absolutely review skincare based on ingredients and claims vs. what the published research (not our opinion or our own ideas) says about the product and any potential risks it may have. This cleanser has a lot going for it, and would be recommended without the fragrant plants such as ginger root and lavender. But given there are other, gentler (and often less pricey) cleansers, why risk irritation with this one? We're not out to get Dermalogica or any other brand; we're reporting the facts based on the science, simple as that! OK, it's not that simple, but you get the idea.

—Admin
01.12.2015
Finally...results!

I have no idea why the Ultra Calming line is rated so low, unless it's because it is being reviewed on ideology and not actual use/results. I have suffered with rosacea for years and tried many different products, including those recommended here and other "spa lines" designed for rosacea. NOTHING has given me results like these products. Within the first 3 days, I noted a dramatic improvement in my skin. Redness and bumps decreased by 80% and my skin feels better than it has in about a decade!

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Reviewed by
Tina G.
09.25.2014
Contact Dermatitis

My mother has been dealing with contact dermatitis for about seven years and has unsuccessfully been able to pinpoint her triggers. Her skin would constantly have flair ups of inflammation, burning, and itching. I introduced her to this cleanser and she absolutely loves it. She has been using the product since this past May and has only experienced one flair up. I'm excited that we are finally on track with her skin health and I think others with sensitized skin should test it out.

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
05.26.2014
Suprised

I recently found Paula's website and starting researching. I have roscea and it's flared up in the last couple of years after moving to a very dry climate. I needed help. I happened to be at a store where Dermalogica was giving demos and they recommended this cleanser to me. I have had no issues with it and my skin had improved a great deal. Of course some of he ingrediants can cause irritation for some. It did not for me. This product is a bit too pricey for me.

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Reviewed by
Lynn W.
05.09.2014
fragrant plant extracts

Which are the plant extracts known to cause irritation? I'm not questioning this, I just want to know the details. Thanks! There are a lot of chemicals in this cleanser, it doesn't compell me. I see the point of high emulgating properties in a cleanser, I'm still surprised to find cetearyl alcohol as the 2nd ingredient in this product. My skin didn't exactly disapprove though! Maybe because of the fact that bisabolol is next in line? I'm not the scientist.

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Reviewed by
iris k
05.12.2014
Beautypedia Team Response

Hi, and thank you for your question! The fragrant extract we're referring to include ginger root extract, lavender flower extract, and lemon fruit extract.

—Paula's Choice Research Team
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