03.25.2015
0
5
Ultracalming Serum Concentrate
Rating
1.7 fl. oz. for $55
Category:Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:03.25.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

This water-based serum contains some skin-silkening and -repairing ingredients that anyone with a compromised skin barrier needs, sensitive or not. The formula also includes some plant-based antioxidants and soothing agents.

But, despite this good news, Dermalogica missed the opportunity to make this a truly effective product for sensitive skin because they included a problematic plant extract along with fragrance chemicals and, believe it or not, the irritant sage oil. Although sage oil has some beneficial properties, they are countered by several problematic components of the plant, including camphor, which is one of the must-avoid ingredients for all skin types because of the irritation it causes, and we know that irritation causes collagen to break down, impairs healing, and increases redness.

Far from being ultra-calming, this serum is a mistake for anyone with sensitive, reddened skin. Please refer to our list of Best Sensitive Skin Products for exemplary serums and other soothing products.

Claims

This advanced formula contains exclusive UltraCalming complex to reduce sensitivity, redness and irritation. Clinical studies have shown that this high-performing serum yields up to 30% reduction in redness, allowing you to enjoy comfortable, calm skin.

Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicas Root Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Phytosterols, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 60, Limonene, Linalool.

Brand Overview

Dermalogica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a unique skin-lightening product; a couple of commendable moisturizers, one with stabilized vitamin C.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; Clean Start and MediBac lines are particularly disappointing; the SPF products tend to be mediocre to poor.

Dermalogica's name implies a logical relationship to dermatology, which makes it sound as if you are getting serious skin care. The subtitle on their products is even more commanding: "A Skin Care System Researched and Developed by the International Dermal Institute." But what is the International Dermal Institute, you ask? Are there any dermatologists there? Apparently not: The International Dermal Institute is a Dermalogica-owned school for aestheticians who want an education beyond what is required for their cosmetology license, and the classes are taught by aestheticians.

Does the professional atmosphere of the school associated with Dermalogica mean better products? The proof is in the pudding, and this pudding is, for the most part, just Jell-O, not chocolate mousse. A company so concerned with skin-care education should be ashamed of itself for offering so many products that damage skin with known irritants and, more egregiously, offering so many sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients. Dermalogica's education-oriented, serious-minded, and clinical positioning doesn’t mesh with the majority of their products, and is on par with tobacco company executives teaching an aerobics class.

According to company history, the reason Dermalogica products came to be was that founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skin-care lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients that she believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems. If anything, quite the opposite is true. Further, if Dermalogica's founders were so concerned about potentially or definitively harmful ingredients, why do their products contain so many of them? Where is the research proving that lavender oil, camphor, balm mint, arnica, ginger oil, and citrus oils are helpful for skin?

For more information about Dermalogica, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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