EGF Cream

by DHC   
Price:
$89 - 1.2 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
6/4/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This pricy moisturizer from DHC claims to combat signs of aging with a peptide linked to epidermal growth factors. We think it’s a good thing the peptide in question is barely present. Why? Because the research examining the topical effects of epidermal growth factors has been short term and concerned primarily with their effect on wound healing. Wrinkles and discolorations (common signs of aging) are not wounds, and although the claim that you can “heal” a wrinkle like a wound by treating it with growth factors is good theory, the research hasn’t been done to prove such efficacy (or safety).

In theory, epidermal growth factors (hormones that induce skin-cell production), when applied topically, may trigger repair mechanisms in skin that have become faulty due to age and sun damage (DNA damage caused by sun exposure). However, theory isn’t fact. The problem is, we don’t know for sure which growth factors work best, how much is needed, and whether or not long-term use is safe (Sources: Skin Research and Technology, August 2008, pages 370–375; and The Surgeon, June 2008, pages 172–177).

In addition, it’s well known that epidermal growth factors administered orally as an adjunct or alternative to chemotherapy cause a variety of skin problems, from rashes to acne (Source: Clinical Journal of Oncology Nursing, April 2008, pages 283–290). In short, until more is known about formulary protocols for epidermal growth factors in skin-care products, we don’t advise using them as part of your anti-aging skin-care routine, no matter how small an amount is in the product. Although the small amount means that it is probably not going to have any effect at all, pro or con, why take the risk?

As mentioned, this DHC moisturizer claims to contain a peptide classified as an epidermal growth factor, but that designation isn’t clear in any research; rather, it appears to be strictly a marketing claim. That leaves you with an emollient moisturizer whose plant oil and antioxidant efficacy will suffer due to the jar packaging (after all those claims, using jar packaging is just an unwise decision). This ends up being a grandiose-sounding product that’s essentially just a basic moisturizer for dry skin. It doesn’t outpace many lesser priced options.

This luxurious moisturizer combats visible signs of aging, including wrinkles and loss of elasticity, with the technologically advanced polypeptide EGF (epidermal growth factor). Contains age-fighting vitamins, minerals, and amino acids to nourish mature skin to encourage elasticity and glow, as well as skin’s natural cell turnover cycle.

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, Batyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Behenyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Arginine, Serine, Tocotrienols, Retinyl Palmitate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Pyridoxine HCL, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Magnesium Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Hydroxide, Ubiquinone, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Carbomer, Mannitol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate, Placental Protein, Polysorbate 20, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Water, Soluble Collagen, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Citric Acid, Human Oligopeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

There's a lot of interest in this Japan-based line; the e-mails asking if these products really work keep pouring in, which means their marketing campaign is garnering the attention it's supposed to. The problem we have, though, is that we don't see any substantial reason to explain the DHC line's popularity!

First of all, here's a little background information. DHC (which stands for Daigaku Honyaku Center) is the Number 1 direct-mail skin-care company in Japan. Their U.S. headquarters is in San Francisco, and they publish a huge (and poorly organized) catalog a few times each year. Many of you have received their catalog unsolicited, perhaps with a few sample packets of DHC products, which may be why we receive so many questions asking whether the products are worth it. The overall answer to that question: Absolutely not! Although DHC offers some very good products, none of them are groundbreaking or unique in a way that's meaningful for the health and appearance of your skin.

The company bases many of their formulas around olive oil and olive extracts. In fact, if you're looking for the most expensive bottle of pure olive oil around, look no farther than the tiny vial DHC offers as their star product! They do their best to convince you that this olive oil is special because it is purified, but we ask you: What do you think you're buying at the grocery store? Do you think it's unpurified, sludge-laden olive oil? Of course not! And your skin won't be able to tell the difference between DHC's olive oil and a quality olive oil from your local market—you can use either one to moisturize dry skin.

What does olive oil have to offer your skin? Well, it's a good source of antioxidants and, of course, has moisturizing properties for dry skin, but that's about it. Olive oil isn't a must-have ingredient for skin, but is a must-avoid ingredient if you're prone to breakouts or have oily skin because its fatty acid content can contribute to clogged pores. Its antioxidant ability has been proven, but there is also research showing that other oils (such as date seed oil) offer even better antioxidant protection (Sources: Biofactors, 2007, pages 137–145; Free Radical Biology and Medicine, April 2005, pages 908–919; and www.naturaldatabase.com). DHC would have been wiser to couple olive oil with other established antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients, but instead they parsed those ingredients out over a wide variety of products, most with overlapping or repetitive claims.

For example, their olive-based products contain olive oil or extract and no other antioxidants of note, save for a tiny amount of vitamin E. But then they offer standalone vitamin C products, vitamin A products, and several products containing coenzyme Q10. We can assure you that more of their products would have earned a Paula's Pick rating had they contained a cocktail of skin-friendly ingredients rather than making their customers pick and choose among such a huge, disjointed assortment (and your skin would benefit from them all being together, as many other companies have done). You shouldn't have to pick four or five DHC moisturizers to get the benefit of multiple antioxidants, but that's the predicament you'll be in, and things get confusing when you try to determine which of the company's claims have merit and which do not. (Hint: Most of them are nothing more than a string of adjectives along with a sprinkling of truth.)

Speaking of disjointed, although we don't normally comment much on a line's packaging beyond the need for avoidance of jars for products with antioxidants and other sensitive ingredients, DHC's packaging is all over the place. The logo, color schemes, bottle shapes, fonts, and just about everything else have no rhyme or reason. You could easily have several DHC products on your vanity and the only way you'd know they were from the same line is the company name, if you can find it. On the upside, DHC avoids jar packaging for their antioxidant-enriched products.

The main benefit of DHC products is the lack of fragrance, though a few products do contain fragrant floral extracts, as noted in the individual reviews. If you're curious to try this Japan import, it is possible to assemble a good, basic routine. However, this is also a line you could ignore in favor of a selection of skin-care products that offer more for your money, especially in terms of single products with multiple state-of-the-art ingredients for skin, and fewer claims that don't correlate with what the ingredients can actually do for your skin. One more plus that deserves mention: the company is forthcoming with their ingredient lists, and their customer service in that arena is prompt and thorough.

For more information about DHC, call (800) 342-2273 or visit www.dhccare.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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