Time Arrest Creme De LUXE
1.9 fl. oz. for $200
Last Updated:03.11.2013
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

This ludicrously priced moisturizer is not a “powerful formula.” It does contain shine-enhancing ingredients that make skin look luminous, but that’s a cosmetic effect, not skin care, and certainly not unique to this product. There is nothing in this formula that warrants the price, but there are several reasons why you should keep it off your face.

Even if the formula were truly state-of-the-art, which it isn’t, the fact that it’s packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won’t remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients (including peptides) break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

Although this moisturizer contains ingredients that will make dry skin feel softer and smoother, so do many other moisturizers, including those that offer your skin much more than this one, and without irritants such as lavender oil. Even in small amounts, lavender oil can cause skin cell death and enhance oxidative damage (Sources: Contact Dermatitis, September 2008, pages 143–150; and Cell Proliferation, June 2004, pages 221–229).


This powerful formula utilizes a unique combination of peptides, pearl silanols, precious natural elements and grape stem cells to capture the full spectrum of a perfectly luminous complexion.


Water, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, C12-15 Alkyl Lactate, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Triisostearin, Myristyl Myristate, Bacopa Monniera Extract, Tricaprylin, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Peg-40 Stearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Lactate, Tourmaline, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Laureth-3, Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearyl Fumarate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Grape Fruit Cell Extract, Carbomer, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide Platinum, Soybean Germ Extract, Allantoin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lavender Oil, Sodium Styrene/Acrylate Copolymer, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Peg-8, Methylparaben, Isomalt, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Silanediol Salicylate, Retinyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Silanetriol, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Triethanolamine, Hydrolyzed Pearl, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Grape Seed Extract

Brand Overview

Dr. Brandt At-A-Glance

Strengths: Provides complete ingredient lists on the company website; a good daytime moisturizer with sunscreen.

Weaknesses: Expensive; overwhelming number of products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; no products to comprehensively address acne or oily skin; every Pores No More product is a disappointment; jar packaging; several products make claims on par with what cosmetic procedures (not skin care) can do.

The late Dr. Fredric Brandt (he passed away in April, 2015 at the age of 65) was a Miami- and New York City–based dermatologist whose claim to fame rested on two main points. The first (and it is a very important credibility factor for consumers) included the many celebrity clients worked with, while the second was his assertion that he performed more Botox and collagen injections than any other dermatologist in the world. According to Allergan, the company that makes Botox, they no longer rank the physicians who purchase Botox from them; however, they did confirm that Dr. Brandt was definitely one of their biggest buyers. Yet regardless of how much Botox or collagen Dr. Brandt or any other physician uses, what in the world does that have to do with cosmetic formulations? If anything, you have to wonder why Brandt was using so much Botox and collagen if his products truly fight wrinkles, sagging, and on and on.

Beyond Brandt's cosmetic enhancement procedures, he is the author of Age-less: The Definitive Guide to Botox, Collagen, Lasers, Peels, and Other Solutions for Flawless Skin. His book and skin-care line are competing against the vastly more popular books and product line from fellow dermatologist Dr. N.V. Perricone. Although Perricone's skin-care line has some drawbacks, including irritating ingredients and the lack of supporting research for his neuropeptide products, the majority of his products, though overpriced, have more pros than cons. Sadly, the same cannot be said for Dr. Brandt, whose namesake skin-care line is on the disappointing side, especially given the product's price points.

Brandt's products are sold with the tag line that they are "prescription strength, prescription-free," and "are formulated under dermatologic control for maximum safety and efficiency and offer the highest performance without a prescription." Aside from how unbelievable that assertion is, what is not mentioned is the fact that none of the ingredients in Brandt's products are comparable to prescription formulations. And what is "dermatologic control" anyway, given that there are no such standards anywhere in the world? Moreover, what do dermatologists know about the manufacturing of pharmaceuticals, much less cosmetics? The two arenas of expertise are completely unrelated.

Dr. Brandt positioned his products as clinically superior to what you would find in other cosmetics lines, an unproven assertion to say the least. Many of his products tout benefits that don't just stretch the truth, but snap it in two—and these fallacies were more disconcerting coming from an esteemed dermatologist. When products contain the problematic ingredients that are so pervasive in Brandt's line, such as irritating plant extracts, drying detergent cleansing agents, and far too many products with skin cell-damaging lavender oil, it becomes nothing more than a line that should be approached with extreme caution.

The line does have a few bright spots: many of Brandt's products do contain significant amounts of antioxidants, though that certainly doesn't make his line unique because many other product lines do that, too. (Here it's fair to say that while no specific amounts have been established for any antioxidant that will ensure their effectiveness, the general consensus among researchers is that more antioxidants are better than less, and less is still better than none at all.) Unless you were a devoted patient of Dr. Brandt and would be racked with guilt for not purchasing his products while visiting for an appointment, there is no reason to seek out this disappointing line.

For more information about Dr. Brandt's products, call (800) 234-1066 or visit www.drbrandtskincare.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!

The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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