These pads are steeped in a solution that blends glycolic acid and salicylic acid plus several antioxidants, a skin-lightening ingredient (arbutin) and a peptide, among others. The amount of glycolic acid isn’t posted, but we suspect it’s between 8–10% while the amount of salicylic acid is likely less than 1% (ditto for the other AHA this contains, lactic acid). The pH of 3.5 allows the formula to function as an exfoliant, so you will see smoother, firmer skin and, in time, a more even skin tone (assuming you’re applying a good sunscreen every morning, rain or shine).
Although these work to exfoliate and smooth skin, the anti-aging ingredients such as antioxidants, arbutin, and peptide won’t remain stable due to jar packaging. These ingredients are sensitive to light and air exposure, and it’s possible the AHA ingredients will lose potency over time, too—this is a delicate formula that needs to be packaged differently!
A potential irritant issue with these pads comes from the preservative methylisothiazolinone. This is a known sensitizer, and can be OK in tiny amounts in leave-on products, but there are other preservatives that could’ve been used instead.
Caution: The company directs you to use these pads after applying their glycolic peel pads, which is overkill because both products contain AHAs and you truly don’t need two exfoliating steps (one right after the other) as part of your daytime or evening routine. There is no benefit to applying two AHA products one after the other, though you can increase the risk of side effects such as red, flaky skin that feels tight and dry. Using two exfoliants is fine, assuming you apply one in the morning and the other at night, not both in sequence.
This triple-strength formulation contains six amino acid peptides in a unique pad delivery system that helps address the appearance of deep, defined lines and wrinkles; expression lines; wrinkles around the mouth; lines on the forehead; wrinkles around the under-eye area; nasolabial lines; and lack of firmness to the entire face.
Water (Aqua), Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Lenz Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract, Yeast Extract, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Extract, Hexapeptide-9, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Dipeptide-4, Polysorbate 20, Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract, Arbutin, Alcohol Denat, Hydrolized Collagen, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Trisodium EDTA
This doctor-designed skin-care line was, without question, the one most requested for review by our readers, primarily due to its prominence on QVC's Web site and home shopping program.
A graduate of New York's Cornell Medical College, Dr. Adrienne Denese opened an anti-aging clinic in Manhattan shortly after completing her studies. It has become extremely successful, to the point where she felt it necessary to create her own products to make sure her skin-care advice was being taken.
Her book, Dr. Denese's Secrets for Ageless Skin: Younger Skin in 8 Weeks, on how to take care of your skin, is much like Dr. Perricone's book The Wrinkle Cure, in that both promise to get rid of (or at least really, really minimize) your wrinkles. Another similarity is the lack of supporting research or studies to back up the claims in either book. Neither Dr. Perricone nor Dr. Denese source their information, and more often than not, there are no research reports or supporting studies to be found. We are just supposed to take their word for everything they say. Denese naturally uses her gender more than Perricone to establish credibility and empathy with female consumers (who, no secret, purchase the vast majority of skin-care products out there), and also routinely appears on QVC to discuss her products.
Ironically, her product line, sold exclusively via QVC and Denese's Web site, makes much more sense than a lot of what she writes in her book. After reading the book and evaluating her namesake line, we noted some interesting and frustrating statements and conflicts that deserve attention. One of her statements that we found most surprising, for a dermatologist keen on anti-aging medicine, was: "If a skin-care product doesn't work, it's not the consumer's fault." This statement is not untrue, it's just incomplete. Dr. Denese contends that no one can afford to throw away money on products that don't work, a point with which we truly agree. However, she mentions nothing about carefully establishing a skin-care routine and then following through on it. Unfortunately, many consumers don't follow through, and that's a big reason why they don't get the results they want from products.
For example, using an anti-acne product only occasionally, or not applying sunscreen daily or liberally enough, won't benefit your skin and could easily lead you to believe that the unimpressive results mean the product is faulty.
Moreover, some skin-care problems (like sagging) are beyond what any product can address. (That's why there are dermatologists and plastic surgeons with thriving practices.) All the dermatologists we have interviewed over the years agree that patient compliance with and adherence to skin-care routines and the regimen of topical medications is an ongoing challenge, and there is research supporting that (Source: Dermatologic Therapy, July-August 2006, pages 224–236). Dr. Denese also understands this, as evidenced from her comment about the Dr. Obagi System (for skin discolorations): "The only times I've seen the Obagi System fail is [sic] when patients have skipped steps and ignored instructions."
In another statement Dr. Denese refers to petrolatum and mineral oil as "junk food for skin," stating that "they feel good but they clog your pores." This is not a true statement because neither substance is capable of becoming hard and clogging the lining of the pore. In fact, both of these ingredients have impressive research proving their benefit, mildness, and effectiveness for skin (Sources: Cutis, September 2004, pages 109–116; and Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, CRC Press, 2000, pages 252–254).
Petrolatum and mineral oil have greasy textures, so they're not the best-feeling ingredients for someone with oily or acne-prone skin, but in this case greasiness does not equal clogged pores.
Dr. Denese also refers to blackheads as dirt, which is completely false. Blackheads are composed of sebum, dead skin cells, and other debris (mostly tiny hairs) that make up the follicle lining of the pore. The oxidation that occurs as this mixture of sebum and dead skin cells reaches the pore opening is what causes the blackness—it has nothing to do with cleanliness (Sources: Clinical Dermatology, September-October 2004, pages 367–374; Cutis, August 2004, pages 92–97; and American Academy of Dermatology, www.aad.org).
According to Dr. Denese, you cannot exfoliate too much. Yet she doesn't warn against the potential for irritation when too much of a good thing becomes a punishment rather than a benefit, which absolutely can occur with over-exfoliation.
Surprisingly, Dr. Denese does not recommend salicylic acid (BHA) for exfoliation. Instead, she prefers AHAs (glycolic and lactic acids) because AHAs may be used at higher concentrations than BHA. However, the difference in concentrations between AHAs and BHA is not about quantity. Rather, it's because they work best at different concentrations, and also perform differently. That is, a higher concentration of AHA is not more effective or better than a lower concentration of BHA. AHAs are most effective at 5% to 10%, while BHA is most effective at 1% to 2%. In the world of skin care, there are many examples where a higher percentage of an ingredient doesn't necessarily equate with superior effects, as is the case with AHA and BHA (Sources: Women’s Health in Primary Care, July 2003, pages 333–339; Journal of Dermatological Treatment, April 2004, pages 88–93; Dermatology, January 1999, pages 50–53; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 1997, pages 589–593).
Despite the incomplete information (or in some cases, misinformation) in her book, Denese has crafted some remarkably state-of-the-art products, and the prices, though steep, aren't unreasonable.
As is true for most skin-care lines (including those from dermatologists), there are shortcomings and missteps along with good products here. For those who choose the best of what Dr. Denese has to offer, the rewards will be smiling at them in the mirror each day (but please don't take that to mean your wrinkles will be gone)!
Note: All Dr. Denese products contain fragrance unless otherwise noted.
For more information about Dr. Denese New York, call 866-642-3754 or visit www.drdenese.com.