What really makes the price of this moisturizer embarrassing is its jar packaging. The formula contains lots of antioxidants but they along with other fragile ingredients will quickly degrade once this jar-packaged product is opened. The reason this gets a Poor rating is for the inclusion of skin cell-damaging lavender oil. There is no proof that the Hydra-Pure Chelating Complex helps protect your skin from minerals in tap water.
This product is a breakthrough moisturizer, combining the height of luxury with the latest in scientific research and advanced technology. The Hydra-Pure Chelating Complex removes harmful impurities left on the skin by tap water and increases the penetration of active ingredients. Heavy metals such as Iron, Copper, Magnesium, Lead and Zinc are sequestered and pulled off the surface of the skin, reducing irritation and dryness. Used internally for decades, Dr. Gross is the first to use a topical application-the proprietary technology of the Hydra-Pure Chelating Complex.
Water, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capic Triglyceride, Squalane, Dea-Cetyl Phosphate, Isostearyl Linoleate, Petrolatum, Stearyl Alcohol, Hectorie, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Evening Primrose Oil, Polysorbate 20, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone, Lavender Oil, Olive Fruit Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Pyllanthus Emblica Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Palmitic Acid, PEG-12, Dimethicone, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Ceramide 2 , Tetrasodium EDTA, Trideceth-6, Aodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Cyclodextrin, Pentasodium Penetrate, Phytic Acid, Polyquatemium-51, Potassium Citrate, Potassium Gluconate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Urea, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lecithin, Phospholipids, Trehalose, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, DNA, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid
As you may have gleaned from the name, dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross created this skin-care line. Based in New York City, he claims that all of his products provide "maximum results without side effects," a statement any doctor should know better than to make. For instance, a consumer would logically assume, especially coming from a doctor, that "maximum results" means the products in question really will firm, lift, tighten, plump, or peel the skin. But Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare products don't provide maximum results, not in the least, and definitely not in any of the ways suggested by the marketing copy. In fact, although Gross includes some very impressive ingredients in his products, they cannot make good on the most enticing claims he makes for them.
As for the promise of "no side effects," that is easily refuted with a simple overview of his underachieving products. A quick summary: lavender oil can cause skin-cell death, sulfur is extremely irritating and drying to skin, ascorbic acid can be sensitizing, as can retinol, and the synthetic active sunscreen agents he uses can also present their share of problems. That's not to say that all of these ingredients are bad for skin (only the sulfur and lavender oil qualify for that description), but it's foolish to make a blanket statement that your cosmeceutical-type products are free of side effects. How could he possibly know what a person may react to?
Gross also asserts that he uses cutting-edge technology in his products, a point which I concede given the number of superior moisturizers and serums he offers, all of which compete nicely with other well-formulated products. His products are expensive, but if you're going to spend a lot of money on skin-care products, you should be purchasing state-of-the-art formulas, and these do rate. Of course, this technology (read: efficacious ingredients) doesn't extend to every Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare product, but overall this is one line whose formulas have improved considerably since the previous edition of this book, and that is excellent news!
Several of the products in this line contain emu oil. While there is research indicating that emu oil is a good emollient that can help heal skin, it is not that different from other oils that offer the same benefit, such as grape or olive or even mineral oil for that matter (Source: Australasian Journal of Dermatology, August 1996, pages 159–161).
Last, please ignore the tired claim that these products are your alternative to surgical procedures and that they use medical-grade ingredients. Concerning the latter, there is no such thing; Gross uses the same cosmetic and over-the-counter active ingredients found throughout the cosmetics industry. And although his line offers some remarkable products, none of them can provide results equivalent to Botox, dermal fillers, chemical peels, or laser treatments (and definitely not a face-lift).
Note: Unless mentioned otherwise, all MD Skincare products are fragrance-free.
For more information about Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, call (888) 830-7546 or visit the Web site at www.dgskincare.com.
NOTE: In Spring 2010, MD Skincare became Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare.