Glycolic Skin Peel, Glyco-Treat Exfoliating Solution 10%

Price:
$39 - 2 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > AHA Exfoliants > AHA
Last Updated:
3/14/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
pH:
>1.70
Tested On Animals:
No

This AHA toner is said to contain 10% glycolic acid (listed as glycolic hydroxyacetic acid), something we doubt based on the ingredient statement. Either way, you can’t trust Epicuren’s ingredient statement because several of the terms Epicuren chose are not permitted per FDA ingredient regulations. This product does have a pH of 1.7, so assuming the glycolic acid content really is 10% (again, I doubt this is true), it will exfoliate skin. However, a product with a pH as low as 1.7 is exceedingly irritating (think about it this way, sulfuric acid has a pH of 1), so you’re harming skin more than helping it. There are so many beautifully formulated AHA products whose pH levels are within range of efficacy with minimal risk of irritation (pH 3.5 to 4), why choose this one, with a price tag that hurts in another way also?

A mild exfoliating lotion that boosts cell turnover and mimics the accelerated rate of youthful skin, while maintaining skin’s moisture. With continued use, results may include: Improved clarity, pores look smaller and more refined, minimized surface sun damage and discolorations, brightened and more even skin tone, appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is diminished.

Collagen Enzyme Vitamin Protein Complex with Niacin, Biotin and Riboflavin Co-Factors in a Purified Water Borne Blend, Deionized Water, Hyaluronic Acid Protein, Glycolic Hydroxyacetic Acid, Safflower Oil, Sorbitan Stearate, Sesame Oil, Lecithin, Allantoin, Panthenol, Aloe Vera, Natural Apricot Fragrance

You may have come across this brand while visiting a spa, but like many spa-designed products the claims are far more impressive than the formulas, and it's here that Epicuren Discovery takes the cake! They make some of the most farfetched claims and poorly formulated products the cosmetics industry has to offer.

Promising "a highly effective path to aesthetic improvement" along with an ageless complexion, it's no wonder Epicuren has stimulated so many questions from our readers. It's hard to resist the allure of a line like this, especially when you're being told about the products from well-meaning aestheticians who've just spent the last hour doting on your face.

At the heart of Epicuren is the company's exclusive (always exclusive, isn't it?) enzyme protein complex. They refer to this complex as the Metadermabolic Enzyme and describe it as "a protein that is combined with a waterborne solution of B vitamins to create a protein with intelligence." They claim it encourages your skin to rejuvenate itself, and they actually equate it to how exercise encourages your metabolism. Talk about nonsense! As you might have guessed, there is no research to back any of this up!

Whatever the company wants to call their complex, enzymes, whether from a protein or other substance, aren't extraordinarily beneficial ingredients for skin. They're notoriously unstable and certainly not likely to withstand the environmental exposure inherent to jar packaging, which Epicuren occasionally uses. As for the B vitamins, they show up in most Epicuren products, but they are used throughout the rest of the cosmetics industry as well. More to the point, no single group of vitamins or enzymes is capable of providing skin with everything it needs to repair itself, reduce inflammation, and become better able to withstand the factors that cause aging or the effects of aging.

Most notable is what Epicuren products lack. They come up short on antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-identical ingredients. Skin, just like your diet, needs far more than a few beneficial ingredients. As the largest organ of the body, your skin requires a complex array of substances to keep it healthy and acting younger.

Even more shocking is Epicuren's blatant disregard for both FDA-mandated ingredient disclosure as well as global regulations. Product after product lists either made-up terms (e.g., "food grain distillate" or trade names such as Optiphen, which is a preservative, alongside ingredients that are listed inaccurately [we supply the correct names in parenthesis]). Not only is such labeling illegal, but also it keeps consumers in the dark about exactly what they'e putting on their skin. Epicuren had this same issue when we first reviewed their products in 2000, and it is shocking to me that they're still getting away with this deception on so many of their products.

Epicuren's assertion of being all natural is about as bogus as calling polyester natural. Their products contain synthetic preservatives, synthetic sunscreen agents, synthetic fragrance, and silicones to name a few. Plus, many of the natural ingredients they do include are irritants, and, therefore, are bad for skin.

After all of the bad (perhaps surprising) news above, you may be wondering if there are any bright spots in this line. In fact, there are, though they are few and far between, and those bright spots are dimmed somewhat by the needlessly high prices. The best news is that Epicuren gets all of their sunscreens right in terms of reliable UVA-protecting ingredients. Many of them also have elegant, lightweight textures and non-greasy finishes that consumers will enjoy, and anything that encourages more frequent sunscreen usage is positive. Epicuren also has a few sleeper products, such as a fragrance-free, fast-acting eye-makeup remover and an intriguing skin-lightening product with an impressive amount of the hydroquinone alternative arbutin. None of this good news is enough to warrant an Epicuren shopping spree, but if you're curious about these products or frequent a spa that retails this brand, at least you'll know which ones are worth your time and money after reading my reviews.

For more information about Epicuren Discovery, call (800) 235-1217 or visit www.epicuren.com.

Note: Our research assistant reported that Epicuren's customer service response for an initial email was very good; however, if follow-up questions occur (as is often the case), don't expect to hear from the company again. This odd behavior happened unfailingly, even when our team used a variety of different email addresses.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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