This is the cleanser that Vogue magazine heralded as “probably the best cleanser in the world.” We can’t be sure what it was about this product that deserved such praise, because Eve Lom’s Cleanser doesn’t come close to living up to that statement! Splurging on this formula gets you an unremarkable blend of mineral oil, lanolin, cocoa butter and fatty acids. This hard-to-rinse mix is best avoided by those with oily/combination skin types and/or prone to breakouts (imagine attempting to wash your face with lip balm and you may get the picture). The mineral-oil base removes makeup, but so would plain mineral oil and you wouldn’t have to contend with the potent irritants included, namely clove, eucalyptus, eugenol, and isoeugenol. See More Info for details about the damaging effects of irritation to skin.
Had Eve Lom left out those irritants, this would have been an acceptable, though embarrassingly overpriced, cleanser option for very dry skin. Given Eve Lom’s reputation as a master aesthetician, we were shocked at the cost for this cleanser, given its ingredients amount to little more than Aquaphor and fragrance extracts (and those irritant extracts make this problematic for the eye area). There isn’t any reason to consider this formula given the numerous well-formulated alternatives available (from the drugstore to the department store), especially given its ridiculously steep price.
- Heavy mix of emollients make this a problem to rinse.
- The amount of ground apricot seed makes this abrasive and damaging to the skin.
- Clove, eucalyptus oils and fragrance extracts are potent irritants (negating the “gentle” claim).
- Expensive (for what is a very basic series of ingredients).
Irritation: Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin. (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
With a powerful blend of Egyptian chamomile, hops, clove and eucalyptus oil, together with cocoa butter the Eve Lom Cleanser cleanses, tones, exfoliates all in one. Even the most stubborn make-up and eye make-up will be removed. The specially woven muslin cloth (100% cotton) is used with the Cleanser to improve skin circulation while cleansing and exfoliating the skin in minutes. The result is clean, perfectly balanced skin and a radiant complexion. Suitable for all skin types.
Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-30 Lanolin, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Aluminum Stearate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa Butter), PEG-75 Lanolin, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile Oil), Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove Oil), Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus Oil), Humulus Lupulus (Hops Oil), Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, P-Chloro-M-Cresol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol
Eve Lom is described as "one of the most respected and sought-after beauty professionals alive today," which is quite a feat, but a bit bewildering when you consider the quality of the product's that bear her name. A Czechoslovakia-born aesthetician who came to the United States in the 1980s, Lom studied with fellow aesthetician Georgette Klinger before jumping across the pond and taking her skills to London. PR pronouncements aside, in this case the quality of the products is seriously lacking, and most are utter disappointments, with formulas that are remarkable only in how amazingly ordinary and mundane they are.
Aside from the poor formulations, this line lacks AHA or BHA exfoliants (which have abundant research showing they are beneficial for most skin types), effective anti-acne products, and any products to address other concerns such as discolorations or wrinkles. Lom's less-is-more approach is intriguing, but less should not mean short-changing your skin on what is essential for healing, sun protection, various skin-care concerns, or well-researched ingredients. Limiting the number of products you use doesn't necessarily mean you are taking good (or even average) care of your skin.
Where this line falls seriously short are the moisturizers. Most of them are as basic as it gets, with combinations that date back to the 80s. (Think about using the same computer you used in the 80s and it'll give you an idea of how antiquated skin-care formularies won't give your skin what it needs, namely, what current research shows is essential for skin to function like young or healthy skin.) Aside from banal formulations, they also are laden with fragrance, and the few plant extracts these products do contain have minimal or no research showing their benefit; some are even seriously irritating. Any ingredient, natural or otherwise, that causes irritation can cause collagen to break down, increase oil production, and impair the skin's barrier—none of that is good and an aesthetician should know better, regardless of her pedigree.
Not a single Lom product has a formula that mixes antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, anti-irritants, and cell-communicating ingredients, which are central to the current understanding, based on published research, of what skin truly needs to look and feel its best. You can't even fault Lom for using mostly jar packaging because there are no ingredients in these products worth keeping stable. In the end, becoming a devotee to Eve Lom’s products and skin-care philosophies is both a step backward and a step toward subjecting your skin to daily irritation and inflammation, both of which lead to helping skin look older, not younger.
For more information about Eve Lom, call +44 (0) 20 8740 2076 or visit www.evelom.com.